jays69bird
New Member
Thank you everyone for your input.
To me, That is the best and easiest method. I have used that on two 70 Challengers and my 68 Charger. When I did my Charger, I swapped in a 6.1 Hemi and 5 speed auto trans so it was detrimental that I did it from the bottom because of fitment issues. I had to cut and fab the tunnel so it was in and out a number of times. The final install was no more that 20 minutes. 4 k frame bolts and 4 cross member bolts. No scratches and no taping needs. I used my Cherry picker to lift the body but you may choose to use your lift.Did a compression check on my 1969 Road Runner engine yesterday. Got 1,3,5,2, 135 psi-4,6, 130 psi, and 7 125 psi, and 8 120 psi.
Readings are in spec and for an engine rebuilt over 40 years ago its held up well. However I wanted to do a few things, Aluminum DB4
intake, TTI headers, newer carb, recam it. So I'm thinking about pulling it and reringing it. Now I have a cherry picker, but I also have a
lift. I was thinking instead of pulling the engine out of the car, pulling the torsion bars, upper control arms, and unbolting the K frame and
lifting the car up. Never done it that way but it seems to be a cleaner way of doing it. I was looking for feedback on folks who have done
the K frame method ?
Dropping the engine out the bottom is the best way to go IF you have the space and tools to do it that way. If you don't have the space or the tools then it is literally impossible.Thank you everyone for your input.
You say that you have a cherry picker? Use the "reverse Pull method".View attachment 1970114View attachment 1970115View attachment 1970116View attachment 1970117View attachment 1970118
Option C: Pay a shop to do it.