66 Satellite Hemi Engine sitting level in K-member?

[AR67GTX]

Thanks, I was aware of the vertical bolt and backed it off but so far not much luck overall. When I jacked the engine up the 2 bolts in the pass side slid to the bottom, or near bottom of the slots, so I tightened them up there. But the driver side didn’t move and it didn’t seem to affect the engine level. So I repositioned my jack a bit to the driver side strapped the k- member to my lift to keep it from unloading the suspension so much. Then I jacked the engine up until I saw the motor mount definitely move a little. But when I looked back at the hole for the through bolt in the slot, it had actually moved down rather than up as I expected. So I set it back down. So, it’s not as straight forward as I thought and there may be something I’m misunderstanding about the driver side mount. Maybe that slot doesn’t really represent any adjustability. It’s a real mystery to me why the bolts on the passenger side side are now down at the bottom of the k-member slots - versus at the top originally - yet engine remains 1/4” higher on that side.

I may try Fran’s suggestion on jacking against the pan rail on the driver side. I put one of those HD pans on the engine that is almost twice as thick as standard and so far it has shrugged off all this lifting but I hate to over do it because these engines are heavy. If that doesn’t help I’ll have to go borrow a friend’s engine hoist and lift it from above. Or just quit on it.

 

[AR67GTX]

Here is the other bolt.

View attachment 2011414

Is this a k-member and mounts in your garage? Can you look at that driver side and see if it there is any adjustment with that though-bolt.

 

[Fran B]

Wonder if through bolt is pinching the k frame mount from over tightening the bolt. Maybe shim under motor mount where the top bolt.

 

[AR67GTX]

AI, for what it’s worth, says there is no adjustment in the driver side mount. So, I’m probably misinterpreting that slot in the thru-bolt part of the mount. Maybe I just need to take it out and romp on it a little to settle things. Maybe leave the driver side bolts slightly loose so it can work a little as the engine torques.

 

[MarPar]

Could it just be that the driver's side rubber isolator be toast?

 

[AR67GTX]

Could it just be that the driver's side rubber isolator be toast?

View attachment 2011550

I'm not sure of anything but that’s the pass side which is the high side. This is the driver side.

 

[Dragon Slayer]

Car purchased this way? Tweak in K frame, modified holes in the brackets, insulator issue? How level is the intake manifold?

 

[AR67GTX]

I haven’t lowered the car on the lift to check the intake yet. Something else I can’t help but wonder about, I just put one of those 440 Source, stamped HD oil pans on the car with metal that’s almost twice as thick. Surely, it can’t be stamped with one side taller than the other? Curiosity will require that I measure it.

K- member looks good. I spent quite a bit of time leveling the front end and torsion bars in the past, and I leveled up my lift years ago for some alignment work I performed on it. So when I put a level on the bottom of the skid pad and it showed dead level I was not surprised. It’s real surprising that I was able to move the bolts in the slots on the pass side mount from the top of the slots to the bottom and it made no difference (?).

Considering all the time and work I’ve done in the past under this car I’m surprised I never noticed it before. I went back through all my pictures but don’t have one that it would show up on. The insulators don’t look bad to me but if I can’t figure it out today I will probably get a new set of insulators and plan a future project for next winter to change them out.

 

[not so famous bob]

There really is no repositioning on the Hemi. The mount cushions are pilot pinned and bolted to the block brackets. The left side fits into the k-frame mount in such a way that there is no adjustment there. The drivers side has short slots on the k-frame bracket to allow the cushion to drop in. Those slots just allow the studs of the cushion to pass as you are dropping into an angled mounting. Hemi's are a bitch to drop in and there is little to no wiggle room.

I wouldn`t worry about it ...

 

[AR67GTX]

I wouldn`t worry about it ...

I’m pretty much at that point. Pan is fine. Gonna check the intake but jacking the driver side up on the pan rail didn’t make a difference so probably just going to tighten things back up.

 

[AR67GTX]

I give up. Carbs are on same tilt. I’m satisfied there isn’t any real adjustment on the driver side mount. Adjusting the pass side mount accomplished nothing. Haven’t found any evidence of accident history on the car so maybe the k-frame is tweaked a little or just one of those less than perfect assemblies off the line.

Moving on.

 

[dvw]

Shim the drivers mount.
Doug

 

[AR67GTX]

I’ll probably get a new left isolator and see how it compares with the existing first.

Edit: Ordered one from Mancini which is a locking type which is probably a good idea anyway. If it’s even 1/8 thicker due to the angle that could level it up. If not I can look at cutting a shim out of steel plate to use with it.

 

[AR67GTX]

The Mancini mount is .1” thicker (uncompressed) than the existing (compressed mount) so I’m not going to gain much with it - maybe 1/16 to 3/32” as a guess in the vertical direction. So I need ro work up a shim to mount between it and the engine bracket.

 

[AR67GTX]

New mount and shim I made out of 1/8” stock. Not sure when I’ll get a chance to install it but hopefully it will level things up.

 

[Ceedawg]

Sounds like it’s like a Ford then and I need to loosen and lift the engine then and shift it a little.

The driver side don’t move. Also set level on the ID pad in front of intake.