67 GTX Disc Brake Conversion Metering & Proportioning Valve Choices

[magnetb0y]

Hi,
I'm in the middle of a complete front end rebuild including drum to disc front conversion with power booster.
I bought a kit from pirate and so far no issues. I'm at a point where I can either convert my old brake line system or redo more.
The kit from Pirate came with an adjustable proportioning valve with instructions to place between the back brake line and the stock metering valve.
I've got the back line off the valve, but boy that took a while. I'm now debating putting in the adjustable proportioning valve or replacing the metering valve entirely.
and re-piping all the front lines and just chaining in the back (till I deal with the rear axel in the future).

Does anyone have any experience reusing the drum lines with a adjustable proportioning valve for the rear circuit?

If I did that can I just bend the old lines to the master cylinder and make them work as well or should they be re-piped?

Should I just buy an new all-in-one combo metering/proportioning valve and redo the entire front circuit and piece in the back?

Any help appreciated! Thanks!

My metering valve and adj prop valve

Adj prop came with kit

All in one that I would have to buy

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Hi,
I'm in the middle of a complete front end rebuild including drum to disc front conversion with power booster.
I bought a kit from pirate and so far no issues. I'm at a point where I can either convert my old brake line system or redo more.
The kit from Pirate came with an adjustable proportioning valve with instructions to place between the back brake line and the stock metering valve.
I've got the back line off the valve, but boy that took a while. I'm now debating putting in the adjustable proportioning valve or replacing the metering valve entirely.
and re-piping all the front lines and just chaining in the back (till I deal with the rear axel in the future).

Does anyone have any experience reusing the drum lines with a adjustable proportioning valve for the rear circuit?

If I did that can I just bend the old lines to the master cylinder and make them work as well or should they be re-piped?

Should I just buy an new all-in-one combo metering/proportioning valve and redo the entire front circuit and piece in the back?

Any help appreciated! Thanks!

My metering valve and adj prop valve View attachment 1491878Adj prop came with kitView attachment 1491875All in one that I would have to buy View attachment 1491877

View attachment 1491871

View attachment 1491872

View attachment 1491873

View attachment 1491874

View attachment 1491876

So for me I did what your doing awhile back and got me the adjustable Porp Valve down wind from the factory drum Porp valve about a foot or two where the floor pan straightens out from fire wall but that me. If you have the lines out and the new gold prop valve why not use that and go the extra mile I’d say. When I did my brakes 70 Plymouth they had no Repro Porp Valve so I read in a Mopar magazine to use the adjustable Porp valve and that’s what I’ve been using all these years. I’m sure others will chime in on thoughts as well and good luck

 

[Mackman]

If I had that adjustable proportioning valve I would use it. The kit I bought came with a replacement non-adjustable valve and I’m still working thru issues and thinking about adding an adjustable valve.

 

[magnetb0y]

So for me I did what your doing awhile back and got me the adjustable Porp Valve down wind from the factory drum Porp valve about a foot or two where the floor pan straightens out from fire wall but that me. If you have the lines out and the new gold prop valve why not use that and go the extra mile I’d say. When I did my brakes 70 Plymouth they had no Repro Porp Valve so I read in a Mopar magazine to use the adjustable Porp valve and that’s what I’ve been using all these years. I’m sure others will chime in on thoughts as well and good luck

Thanks for your reply. Did you just reuse and bend the original lines up to the master cylinder too?

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Thanks for your reply. Did you just reuse and bend the original lines up to the master cylinder too?

Kept everything from master lines down to factory Porp Valve. Drum master lines only needed a little bending to mate to new disc master by hand

 

[1STMP]

Hi,
I'm in the middle of a complete front end rebuild including drum to disc front conversion with power booster.
I bought a kit from pirate and so far no issues. I'm at a point where I can either convert my old brake line system or redo more.
The kit from Pirate came with an adjustable proportioning valve with instructions to place between the back brake line and the stock metering valve.
I've got the back line off the valve, but boy that took a while. I'm now debating putting in the adjustable proportioning valve or replacing the metering valve entirely.
and re-piping all the front lines and just chaining in the back (till I deal with the rear axel in the future).

Does anyone have any experience reusing the drum lines with a adjustable proportioning valve for the rear circuit?

If I did that can I just bend the old lines to the master cylinder and make them work as well or should they be re-piped?

Should I just buy an new all-in-one combo metering/proportioning valve and redo the entire front circuit and piece in the back?

Any help appreciated! Thanks!

My metering valve and adj prop valve View attachment 1491878Adj prop came with kitView attachment 1491875All in one that I would have to buy View attachment 1491877

View attachment 1491871

View attachment 1491872

View attachment 1491873

View attachment 1491874

View attachment 1491876

You don't have to place the
proportioning valve under the car in
the rear circuit. It can be plumbed
into the rear line just out of the master
for easy access and adjustability.

 

[magnetb0y]

Update - this is what I did. Wound up putting the adjustable proportioning valve behind the metering valve to the back circuit.
I built my own bracket, and the knob is facing up. It is nicely accessible from the alignment panel behind the front tire. Hopefully
it won't leak. I am now struggling with the master cylinder/power booster plate. Posting the question in a new thread.