• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

67 R/T... Back to Life

Very nice! I'm a little afraid to ask, but what kind of change to get your finish panel and taillight covers done?
Yes, be very afraid...

All were done at LiBrandis but IIRC, center was $700 and each tail bezel was $350.

When I dropped everything off it was a bunch of numbers flying around and we did haggle a bit but those are the numbers I remember.

I did haul everything out to Paul's and his pricing method was per piece. Price for just the center was over $2000 there. My total cost comparison was over double from shop to shop. This like bumpers were the same but these pot metal parts were a big difference.
 
Very nice! I'm a little afraid to ask, but what kind of change to get your finish panel and taillight covers done?

Also those prices were to restore a tail panel that was 'pretty good'. Both platers commented that it was in nice shape. The worse they are the more expensive it gets.
 
Mine isn't too bad-

IMG_0234.JPG IMG_0235.JPG
 
Wow that is a clean 67 nice to see all these 66 67 coronets being put back on the road:thumbsup:
 
^^^^ Thank You.

I had a couple minutes in the garage today. Over the last couple of weeks I restored the fan. This one is a steel center area painted black with natural aluminum fan blades. This is also a fan clutch setup. I had a hard time deciding what to do about the fan clutch. 1 - repaint and detail the original, 2 - find a service replacement that 'looks' close, 3 - pay $200+ for the almost correct repop. Well, I found number two after a lot of searching. This is a Carquest part from Advance a Auto for <$30 after discounts and free shipping. It looks the part, obviously not enough fins but it's aluminum in color and gold cad plated up front. For a fraction of the cost of a repop we're back in business. Belts are fresh from Rock Auto. I did the Quanta repop belts on the GTX and they were junk. They spun off at higher RPMs and I was constantly fighting with them. Late model, reliable, replacements are the route for me. Detailing on the engine is down to a PVC hose and a coil.
27287031138_44bbef628f_o.jpg
 
Started working on the other end of the suspension. Both shock plates and U bolts are original. Brake lines are from Inline Tube. I'm working on cleaning up the rest of the suspension and brake parts. Very dirty work. Degreasing, cleaning, blasting.... EvapoRust has been a big help too. I have some things to share on the front suspension hopefully this weekend.

Springs are from Espo Springs and Things, these are stock 'appearance' and ride height. 6/7 leafs. Rear shackles are stock and cleaned up. Shocks are Konis that were scuffed and repainted to look like originals.

27457844738_e9098cb7f5_o.jpg

27457844818_774a6acdb3_o.jpg

39520210530_ee1d4f300e_o.jpg
 
Here are some original paint marks on the rear chunk. Looks like white was applied the. Three black dots with one orange dot. 3.23 SureGrip.
27457844568_7835874b36_o.jpg
 
We're getting close to color. Car is sanded in 600 and ready for sealer.

Spray outs of EE1 are done and we matched up some original paint on the inside jam of the car.
40479995875_658ed8baa3_o.jpg
40661292024_1370254511_o.jpg
41374322741_3698ec70de_o.jpg
 
Had time this weekend to work on bead blasting and refinishing. Brake back plates seemed to have some sort of phosphate. I chose to use Eastwood's zinc paint instead of trying to get these clean enough to plate. The lower control arms on this car appeared to be painted black. I found enough evidence on both lower arms that I feel they were painted. Neither arm had date codes either. The last car I worked on was a 68 GTX and that did not have dates codes either. The rear end is starting to come together as well as the front suspension.

Next weekend is Carlisle, not sure what I'll get done. I do need to phosphate some hardware. Looking at the pictures I'm not happy with some of the rear hardware that was only Evaporusted. I'll be redoing that. The SureGrip tag is original, I had to epoxy it to a was since the center was all rotted out. The original 3.23 tag is there too. Pinion snubber is original and pitted but it's the original one so I'll use it.
41482974601_9534c0d9a2_o.jpg
41441064812_a50bcfbca5_o.jpg
40769641424_dd59491230_o.jpg
40589995325_bc1d74d703_o.jpg
41482974481_d271b66602_o.jpg
41441064322_398e427508_o.jpg
26611876887_67bec2e837_o.jpg
40769641724_e5c6b2961d_o.jpg
26611877857_5ef1e122cb_o.jpg
39674804110_b5c4cbee3b_o.jpg
 
I'll be picking this up at Carlisle this weekend. Gardner exhaust system.
40769662384_00e19fa65d_o.jpg


26611877507_8fc920715f_o.jpg
 
Got a day off work yesterday and spent it at Carlisle. Vendors were a little on the light side but the crowd was back with a vengeance. Place was packed. I picked up my exhaust from Gardner and other than that just a couple odds and ends. No real Mopar vendors there and only found a couple guys selling parts.

Today I was able to get my wheels cylinders rebuilt and put the brakes together. I cleaned and EvapoRust'd everything. I did not spend any time replating or painting any brake hardware. I figured since I will driving the car it wasn't worth it. Only items missing are the drums, those are now bead blasted and painted. I'll take them to Yoe Service and have Joe turn them and see how round they are. E-brake cables were not salvageable, I ordered new ones at Carlisle from InLine Tube. They should be here next week. Still need new bleeder screws too.

I also gathered more bolts and bead blasted them, then did the phosphate coatings like I had earlier in the thread.
40899917924_fc87b9285a_o.jpg
40899917754_d99c611b90_o.jpg
40899917964_fe46be0c3b_o.jpg
40899918024_30463e0319_o.jpg
27741780808_673b51670b_o.jpg
 
How do you like the Evaporust? I recently discovered it and think it is amazing!
It's a life saver, not sure what everyone used before it or how long it's been around. I watered using it a few years ago. I bought a 5 gallon bucket of it and it's all just about gone. I think another 5 gallons will get me through the rest of the car. It's seems the heavier the iron content the quicker it uses up the fluid, cast parts kill it quick. Once it turns black it seems to stop working.

I think the best part is that it doesn't remove paint. It's amazing to see what's below all that rust sometimes.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top