'68 GTX bulkhead connection fire.

[dodge41969]

This is a friend of mines '68 GTX a few years ago. It used to be owned by Mike D. of "The Beastie Boys" Mike D. bought it in '87 or '88, the first thing he did was take it to a local stereo shop here in L.A. to upgrade the stereo and charging system....you can see they used a Ford alternator, (they never upgraded the bulkhead/ammeter...as everybody knows is a real problem). Anyways Mike D. didn't drive it much, it sat outside all the time...for probably 20 years here in the harsh California sun, until 2010 when my friend got it from him, (they've been friends for years). he got it and started driving it regularly he noticed a flickering of the dash/headlights...but didn't think much of it...until one night he was in Hollywood coming home and noticed a burning smell....and it started the rain cigarette cherry's from under the dash, (as he said)...he had enough sense to pull over and disconnect the battery, and thank god it stopped burning. The next day he had it towed to my friends house where I changed the under dash harness/engine compartment harness, and installed a Mopar alternator/regulator. I also took out all that crappy stereo equipment that was wired throughout the entire car.

 

[67GTX440]

Yup! That's a Mopar! A bypass of the bulkhead connector for the amp meter is a must. They did this on police cars they knew were going to add electronics, but not on the rest.

 

[Lowhound]

This is the main reason I am bypassing the bulkhead connectors & using a aftermarket wiring kit. Also planning on replacing the amp meter with a volt meter.

 

[hunt2elk]

Wow - he's very lucky the whole car didn't go up in smoke. After seeing this, I think I will be bypassing the bulkhead connector on my cars.

 

[Dennis H]

After 2 close-calls mine was bypassed too. Disconnected. If it is not charging, I'll know when there is a no start or dim lights.
Also learned to use the battery disconnect in the event of any wiring problem. In the panic that ensues when your interior fills with smoke there is no way to find the source anyway.

One Halon (extinguisher) and two conventionals within reach at all times.

 

[clemul]

I got my car a lot cheaper because my bulk head connector was melted. The Wirthco Engineering knife style battery disconnect is a worthwhile investment, especially if car is usually parked in a garage...an extinguisher in arms reach is another essential...

 

[Dennis H]

Note to self: If shopping for a B Body, look under the dash and claim melted bulkhead wires. Get car at reduced price : )

 

[clemul]

Note to self: If shopping for a B Body, look under the dash and claim melted bulkhead wires. Get car at reduced price : )

Haha, wasn't that simple..car was non running because of burned out bulkhead connector... M&H harnesses kinda cost a little bit too..

 

[Lenny Arsenault]

Wow! I better act quickly I did install a battery disconnect but would it be better to have something close to the driver inside the car?

 

[Meep-Meep]

I had that happen to my 68 RR back in the 80's. Next thing I knew I was looking through white smoke. Nothing bad happened other than the wiring so I was back on the road after a trip to the local junk yard. Ahhhh, remember getting B body parts at the local junk yard??

 

[brasil]

That buklhead connector looks terrible ! also the rest of the wiring stuff...... history.. so a new wiring will be the "Problem solver "
Painlees wiring should be a good company for this .... ( afaik )

Greetings Juergen

BTW.... a nice piece of History you found ...in both ways... MOPAR and MUSIC !!

 

[cr8crshr]

This is a prime example of where the MAD Electric bypass is mandatory. It is the simplest and probably the most economical fix there is. Here is a link: http://www.madelectrical.com/

I did this fix on my 1966 Chrysler 300 and on my 1966 Plymouth Satellite. The wiring harness and bulkhead connect along with the fuse block were all replaced and a new and complete wiring harness for the engine and the dash was bought and installed. There really is only one manufacturer for my money when it comes to the harnesses. That is M&H from Year One. I know the price is high but the fitment and plug n play aspect makes it really easy to install. If you want a PITA set up then the Painless offering will give it to you. DAMHIK....Evans is OK I guess but I have heard nothing but negatives about their products and customer service is minimal at best. I run a high amp alternator and wired in a separate powered buss for my extra gauges and stereo. That is easy to do and only requires an additional fusible link to keep the buss from overloading. The buss also has individual fuses for each accessory wired to it. Pretty slick set up if I do say so myself. But from the looks of things on this car, it needs a complete wire upgrade and install. If you need more help and info, I have a ton of info and experience with this stuff and am here to help....cr8crshr/Tuck

- - - Updated - - -

 

[Gpuller]

I did the bulkhead bypass shown on Allpar. Basically just running a wire parallel in the harness running from alt to the starter relay. Takes most of the load out of the bulkhead connector.
The ammeter gauge isnt accurate anymore but its something I'll live with. Didnt want to drill out the bulkhead connector for a charging wire to pass threw.

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

 

[djais1801]

is this a problem on later model b bodies? like my 71??

 

[Gpuller]

From what I've read yes everything prior to '75 is a problem.

 

[67GTX440]

This is a prime example of where the MAD Electric bypass is mandatory. It is the simplest and probably the most economical fix there is. Here is a link: http://www.madelectrical.com/

I did this fix on my 1966 Chrysler 300 and on my 1966 Plymouth Satellite. The wiring harness and bulkhead connect along with the fuse block were all replaced and a new and complete wiring harness for the engine and the dash was bought and installed. There really is only one manufacturer for my money when it comes to the harnesses. That is M&H from Year One. I know the price is high but the fitment and plug n play aspect makes it really easy to install. If you want a PITA set up then the Painless offering will give it to you. DAMHIK....Evans is OK I guess but I have heard nothing but negatives about their products and customer service is minimal at best. I run a high amp alternator and wired in a separate powered buss for my extra gauges and stereo. That is easy to do and only requires an additional fusible link to keep the buss from overloading. The buss also has individual fuses for each accessory wired to it. Pretty slick set up if I do say so myself. But from the looks of things on this car, it needs a complete wire upgrade and install. If you need more help and info, I have a ton of info and experience with this stuff and am here to help....cr8crshr/Tuck

- - - Updated - - -

This is a prime example of where the MAD Electric bypass is mandatory. It is the simplest and probable the most economical fix there is. Here is a link: http://www.madelectrical.com/

I did this fix on my 1966 Chrysler 300 and on my 1966 Plymouth Satellite. The wiring harness and bulkhead connect along with the fuse block were all replaced and a new and complete wiring harness for the engine and the dash was bought and installed. There really is only one manufacturer for my money when it comes to the harnesses. That is M&H from Year One. I know the price is high but the fitment and plug n play aspect makes it really easy to install. If you want a PETA set up then the Painless offering will give it to you. DAMHIK....Evans is OK I guess but I have heard nothing but negatives about their products and customer service is minimal at best. I run a high amp alternator and wired in a separate powered buss for my extra gauges and stereo. That is easy to do and only requires an additional fusible link to keep the buss from overloading. The buss also has individual fuses for each accessory wired to it. Pretty slick set up if I do say so myself. But from the looks of things on this car, it needs a complete wire upgrade and install. If you need more help and info, I have a ton of info and experience with this stuff and am here to help....cr8crshr/Tuck

I second the wiring harnesses from M&H from Year One.

 

[dodge41969]

The same happened to my Coronet years ago...got another under dash harness from the junk yard too, there was at least 5 or 6 to choose from that particular day!!, it actually came out of a '69 Road Runner that was in good shape, (no rust), just missing the motor and trans, those were the days for sure.

I had that happen to my 68 RR back in the 80's. Next thing I knew I was looking through white smoke. Nothing bad happened other than the wiring so I was back on the road after a trip to the local junk yard. Ahhhh, remember getting B body parts at the local junk yard??

 

[tallhair]

The same happened to my Coronet years ago...got another under dash harness from the junk yard too, there was at least 5 or 6 to choose from that particular day!!, it actually came out of a '69 Road Runner that was in good shape, (no rust), just missing the motor and trans, those were the days for sure.

Man I miss those days. I had many fun Saturday or even afterwork cruising around in junk yards.

 

[440+6]

You guys make me nervous, mine is still all orig wiring and never had a problem and don't really want to modify but your scarring the crap out of me with all this talk of battery disconnects and fire extinguishers.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

You guys make me nervous, mine is still all orig wiring and never had a problem and don't really want to modify but your scarring the crap out of me with all this talk of battery disconnects and fire extinguishers.

long as you don't have any crazy amperage draws from aftermarket stereo's, elec fans, and what ever else people add its usually not a problem. you can take the bulk head apart and inspect the connection, long as it looks good spray it with some wd40 and put it back together. all the issues i've had are usually inflicted from people boogering up the wiring or trying to run more accessories than the original system will handle. if i have a car that has unmolested wiring i don't worry about it. that being said thats usually one of the first things i look at on any car, the condition of the wiring.