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68 RT Charger In NC - OPINIONS NEEDED

THANKS A MILLION! I've sent him an email to see what he comes back with. As soon as I hear back I'll post here.

I will be at Charlotte for the Auto Fair starting Thursday morning through Saturday evening. Do you know if the car will be in the car corral or in the show on Saturday or Sunday? If he should give you a space number, I can possibly look the car over.
 
I know you all have my back & I truly appreciate it. You're all more experienced than me & you've got a ton of knowledge and your helping me out by keeping it real and not letting the emotional factor (I gotta have it now) get in the way. that's a money saver & sanity saver in my book. I'm going to take a wait and see approach on this as $42k is a lot of $ for me. Best to spend it wisely.

--------Rebel,dont get me wrong, i want you to get the car your looking for. This car you posted could be it. I just dont like the way this guy is selling it and i would hate to see you get jerked around. I agree with you and Kern about people giving there negative opinions. Not everyone has the big dollars to spend on a top notch restored car. Buying within a budget is always going to have some issues with a car. Were all pulling for you and hope you find what your looking for. Keep at it and you will find what you want
 
Thanks everyone for your input!
 
68-69's are also on my radar. I'm looking for a center console auto.
 
Motor is from 75. He's just bringing it on a trailer with a for sale sign on it.

Now say for example I buy the car but want to get a date period correct engine that came with the car (67 or 68) what does something like that go for assuming it's just been rebuilt or will need to be rebuilt. If everything else is #'s matching by putting in a period date engine does that now make it a #'s matching car?
 
Motor is from 75. He's just bringing it on a trailer with a for sale sign on it.

Now say for example I buy the car but want to get a date period correct engine that came with the car (67 or 68) what does something like that go for assuming it's just been rebuilt or will need to be rebuilt. If everything else is #'s matching by putting in a period date engine does that now make it a #'s matching car?
why? it wont change the value, it still wont be #s matching.
 
Motor is from 75. He's just bringing it on a trailer with a for sale sign on it.

Now say for example I buy the car but want to get a date period correct engine that came with the car (67 or 68) what does something like that go for assuming it's just been rebuilt or will need to be rebuilt. If everything else is #'s matching by putting in a period date engine does that now make it a #'s matching car?

#'s matching engine would mean that it has the engine that came with it off the assembly line, so no that wouldn't be the same.
 
Thanks guys! I didn't realize that every car had a serialized # engine just to that car. I thought they were stamped for the year they were made. That's a lot of dies they must have had. So 1st car that came off the line was 01 and the engine, trans, drive shaft and rear were all stamped #1.

Wasn't looking to up the value just was looking to at least make it more correct for the car.

why? it wont change the value, it still wont be #s matching.

#'s matching engine would mean that it has the engine that came with it off the assembly line, so no that wouldn't be the same.
 
Your off track a bit.

Engines have casting numbers and casting dates. This would make the car 'era' or date correct but it's not the 'born with' assembly line engine.

For it to be born with, you'll have a hand stamped VIN by the oil sender for 68. Then you'll have a stamp on the oil pan rail. That number will coincide (Julian date code) with production date of engine stamp up on the top that says something like (ABCDE)440 HP and then mm/dd date code.

If your into the details then make it date correct but it will not help the $$$ of the vehicle.
 
Best of luck on your search. Do not settle and do not get tunnel vision. That is a ton of money for a non matching, non correct car. Only way to see how solid or how correct it is is to get eyes on it and nit pick it front to back. If it has more issues and seller is unwilling to budge, just walk away.
 
you have to look at it, or accept that what your getting has value to you at the price point. Color change and motor effect value, but the rest of the options seem to match up. Detail work to make correct can add up but that may not effect your view of the car. If that body is solid, and lots of original stuff in the interior and rest of car, not sure how you can go wrong. Of course, if it was, I am not sure why it did not sell yet.
 
Thanks guys! I didn't realize that every car had a serialized # engine just to that car. I thought they were stamped for the year they were made. That's a lot of dies they must have had. So 1st car that came off the line was 01 and the engine, trans, drive shaft and rear were all stamped #1.

Wasn't looking to up the value just was looking to at least make it more correct for the car.


http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/matching-numbers-defined.10596/
What was the production date on the car?
Would it have a serial number then?
 
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Was informed today that the car has been sold. I'm bound to find another one like this and perhaps it will be a true #'s matching and a lower price.
 
Was informed today that the car has been sold. I'm bound to find another one like this and perhaps it will be a true #'s matching and a lower price.

With all of the interest out there in these cars, any "good" deals will snatched up quickly. I'd try to see the next car in person ASAP and ask for forum help at the same time.
Good luck with your search!!
 
I will be heading to Auto Fair in the morning . . . but it looks like you don't need any more help if the car already sold . . . sorry . . . Keep looking !
 
Took me 2 years to find my car.
Lots of turds out there, but very few clean examples. I drove around the country and looked at nearly 30 cars before I bought mine.
I agree, you must go see each car yourself.
It takes time, but you will find your car if you keep at it.
 
My 2 cents.. Hope this can help.. I looked for three long years trying to find a good honest 69! I found that I placed em in 3 basic categories.
1. Rust buckets going anywhere from 8k to 15-20k. Yikes!
2. "Restored" cars. God knows by who and attention to detail questionable and work quality questionable too. These were 15k to 35-40k
3. The really well done cars that were rotisserie done by quality people/shops that took care of everything. These were the big label cars, hemi's, R/T's etc...

After categorizing them I sat down and quickly figured out that #3 was out for me, too much money. Didn't mean I still didn't look, lol
Category 1 was going to be too much work, I didn't want to do that again.

That left the middle of the road. Once I got to this point it really made it easier to find one. We always struggle to get the best value for our money, as we should! I figured I was getting back into the hobby knowing I would be working on the car, I didn't need a perfect one. I wanted one to drive and fix up as I go. So, I located one that was solid but had a few issues that I could deal with and it was in the lower price range for category 2! Even better. Now it wasn't an RT or hemi but I don't mind I'm good with my 512 stroker! Lol!

Good luck finding one! They are out there! From the pics, looks good to me! Has some issues but as stated go see it in person! Hear it, drive it if you can!
 
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