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68RR Need Upper Control Arm Advice

RRDon

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The upper control arm bushings on my 68 road runner need to be replaced. Apparently they've never been changed. I'd like to get some of those new tube style ones I see advertised at POL in Mopar Action. Has anybody tried them, any advice? Thanks, RRDon
View attachment 1226693
 
That one doesn’t look bad. And the car has been apart and everything painted, are you sure they have never been changed?
 
The rubber is gone. The other side has a gap where the rubber bushing was and makes a clunking sound when I drive so YES I'm sure. Do you have any experience with the new tube type A arms? Are they worth changing over to?
 
Upper A arm bushings, what do you guys how have changed them or switched to new tube type advise? Thanks
 
I'm using original style old Moog replacements. They will be fine a regularly driven car.
 
Ok sounds good then. I use stock control arms and quality rubber bushings.

I have never used any aftermarket poly bushings or control arms, because the stock stuff works great. When I read threads on them it’s because they won’t go together right, they don’t fit right, they make noise, they don’t wok any better than the stock stuff I just took off, the ride is harsh, etc.
 
The rubber is gone. The other side has a gap where the rubber bushing was and makes a clunking sound when I drive so YES I'm sure. Do you have any experience with the new tube type A arms? Are they worth changing over to?
I put tubular upper arms from PST on one of my cars. I like the added caster, I'd do it again without question.
 
The rubber is gone. The other side has a gap where the rubber bushing was and makes a clunking sound when I drive so YES I'm sure. Do you have any experience with the new tube type A arms? Are they worth changing over to?
Would it work better if the cam bolts were tight?(see orig pic)
 
you want to install K7103 Moog Offset Bushing that allow for more positive caster.

If you installed them like the instructions in the package they might not help you much. The Moog intention of the bushings are for rusty cars that have sagging frames that bend inward over time.

The "trick" is to install them like this diagram below and ignore the Moog instructions. The arrows will be pointing opposite directions front bushing to rear bushing.

offsetbushingsfinal-jpg-jpg-jpg-jpg.jpg


First make sure you set the ride height first to what you want. Factory manual alignment specs are no good for radial tires, they only work if you use bias-ply tires. For Radial tires, Camber -.50 to 0 degrees, Caster as much positive as you can get up to 3 degrees and toe in 1/16th to 1/8th inch. Car runs down the road straight as an arrow now. You will be limited to what you can do with stock A arm bushings, but if you have the Moog off set A arm bushing you can tweak it a little more.
 
Another thought, many people with a 50+ year old car have never driven said car with new parts in it. Just the old rubber and worn parts creating added slop and play.

All new stock parts and proper alignment make these cars really drive nice.
 
I switched to QA1 tubular upper arms with poly bushings. Grease them with the correct grease and they won’t squeak. Can align easily and get up to 4 degrees or more caster. They seem well made .
 
UIf using the stock arms use the Moog offsets in the front. They will give you enough added caster. I would strongly suggest you replace the strut rod bushings and lower control arm bushings as well. Combined with a tight steering gear the car will drive very well. This advise comes from doing many older Mopars and 1000’s of alignments in my 45 years+ of service work.
Doug
 
Also be aware of the bump stop locations so as to not install them backwards. Bought a set of control arms and got 2 left ones in the box. Great when you have the car torn down to replace them.
 
you want to install K7103 Moog Offset Bushing that allow for more positive caster.

If you installed them like the instructions in the package they might not help you much. The Moog intention of the bushings are for rusty cars that have sagging frames that bend inward over time.

The "trick" is to install them like this diagram below and ignore the Moog instructions. The arrows will be pointing opposite directions front bushing to rear bushing.

View attachment 1226712

First make sure you set the ride height first to what you want. Factory manual alignment specs are no good for radial tires, they only work if you use bias-ply tires. For Radial tires, Camber -.50 to 0 degrees, Caster as much positive as you can get up to 3 degrees and toe in 1/16th to 1/8th inch. Car runs down the road straight as an arrow now. You will be limited to what you can do with stock A arm bushings, but if you have the Moog off set A arm bushing you can tweak it a little more.
I like more than .5 degrees negative camber especially with tires that are not real wide. When I first started seeing cop cars in the late 70's with enough camber that you could see it if you looked good.....well, that started me experimenting lol 1/16th toe in isn't enough for stuff that has more than 2 degrees though imo. At first I thought the first cop car I saw with noticeable camber had a worn out front end but the car was fairly new and then I saw another and another. The experimentation paid off plus I did some talking with guys that were doing auto x etc and watching them run.
 
I see I got red x'd ! What are we looking at here anyways?View attachment 1226814
The cam bolts are NOT loose. But I can see how you might come to that conclusion. The rubber bushings have dried out and crumbled over all the years and mostly fallen out. I've taken up all the slack possible. Red x simply means I 'disagree' with your assumption. Not meant as an affront to you.
 
2017-01-09_16-58-11-640x427.jpg
The cam bolts are NOT loose. But I can see how you might come to that conclusion. The rubber bushings have dried out and crumbled over all the years and mostly fallen out. I've taken up all the slack possible. Red x simply means I 'disagree' with your assumption. Not meant as an affront to you.
Looks to me like the cam is not sitting inside the square, should be flat against the inner portion. The cam uses those ribs I guess you can call them to adjust the control arm. The picture you posted look like the cam is outside of those ribs.

Screenshot_20220119-151011_Chrome.jpg
2017-01-09_16-58-11-640x427.jpg
 
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I switched to QA1 tubular upper arms with poly bushings. Grease them with the correct grease and they won’t squeak. Can align easily and get up to 4 degrees or more caster. They seem well made .
Where did you buy the QA1 tubular upper arms with poly bushings?
 
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