• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

68RR Need Upper Control Arm Advice

View attachment 1226857
Looks to me like the cam is not sitting inside the square, should be flat against the inner portion. The cam uses those ribs I guess you can call them to adjust the control arm. The picture you posted look like the cam is outside of those ribs.

View attachment 1226853View attachment 1226857
I know it looks like that but that's a shadow. It does sit flush. Regardless of any of that, the old rubber bushings are long since worn out, dried up, hard and crumbling with chunks missing. I am going to replace with new. I like the idea of the new tubular A arms. My only actual question now is what is the best source to purchase them from?
Or if I stay with the stock arms where to buy the bushings.
Thanks
 
I remember my 66 Belvedere handling pretty good too back in the late 60's and early 70's.....before I started playing with the 66 I have now. It got lowered and ran way different alignment specs with 15x7 cop car wheels (because I had them) and radials to match and it rewarded me with handling that really surprised me vs the original 66. It gave me a new respect for the old stuff. Had a 71 340 Cuda with totally stock suspension and it was even better! Another vehicle that surprised me was a 95 V6 Dakota with just a front sway bar but a 95 Intrepid gave me a pretty nice thrill too.....until I drove a Viper! Geez man. Those things are crazy nuts! I almost went totally autocross with this old stuff but....well, I just liked drag racing a bit better plus the drag race people accepted me way better than the autocross snobs did. Seems like if you weren't running the high dollar euro cars in auto X, you were an outcast. Sure need to get my 66 back together!
 
I know it looks like that but that's a shadow. It does sit flush. Regardless of any of that, the old rubber bushings are long since worn out, dried up, hard and crumbling with chunks missing. I am going to replace with new. I like the idea of the new tubular A arms. My only actual question now is what is the best source to purchase them from?
Or if I stay with the stock arms where to buy the bushings.
Thanks
Performance online? I've never run aftermarket upper A arms but have modified my own plus the offset bushings work. Just never thought that there was a need to spend money on something that wasn't needed when the stock stuff works well with 'modified' settings. Exactly what are you looking for the car to do? Handling is one thing.....but imo, if you are not willing to lower it some then the aftermarket stuff isn't going to offer a huge improvement.....imo. I was surprised that the stock stuff could do what it did.....at least with my junk....
 
I know it looks like that but that's a shadow. It does sit flush. Regardless of any of that, the old rubber bushings are long since worn out, dried up, hard and crumbling with chunks missing. I am going to replace with new. I like the idea of the new tubular A arms. My only actual question now is what is the best source to purchase them from?
Or if I stay with the stock arms where to buy the bushings.
Thanks
Bergman auto craft is a sponsor here. I can attest to the service and quality product.
 
Where did you buy the QA1 tubular upper arms with poly bushings?
Summit racing. They have grease fittings too. But HAVE to use the silicone grease to keep from squeaking
 
No real need for the tube arms. The only thing they offer is additional adjustment on some types. To make those adjustments you would have to put the car on an alignment rack. Take readings. Remove the arms. Make an educated guess on how far to move the adjustable ends reinstall and start again. Not to mention if they are heim style. Heim aren't very long for this world on the street. Grit tears them up. The car in my avitar uses stock arms. Regularly runs 147-149mph.
Doug
 
No real need for the tube arms. The only thing they offer is additional adjustment on some types. To make those adjustments you would have to put the car on an alignment rack. Take readings. Remove the arms. Make an educated guess on how far to move the adjustable ends reinstall and start again. Not to mention if they are heim style. Heim aren't very long for this world on the street. Grit tears them up. The car in my avitar uses stock arms. Regularly runs 147-149mph.
Doug
“No real need for the tube arms”. When I decided that the few front end parts that I put on 22 years ago were 22 years old, and I wanted to start driving the car more, I threw a little money at it. Not a drag car, goal is a nice driving street car. The upper a arms had worn out bushings and questionable ball joints. add all that up with the work to install in my old dirty upper arms, and the $ spent for the QA1 upper arms wasn’t that much more. ( in my opinion). Agreed that heim joints on a street car are likely a issue from accelerated wear. My QA1 bars have poly bushings, with grease fittings and use the OE adjuster bolts. So the alignment process is the same as original. Now I’m agonizing over a Borgeson box or a “firm feel” rebuild of the original steering box.
 
Actually I checked out the P-S-T website and found what I was looking for. They have a lot of info there including videos. I'm going with their tubular angled control arms. Thanks guys. :)
 
Actually I checked out the P-S-T website and found what I was looking for. They have a lot of info there including videos. I'm going with their tubular angled control arms. Thanks guys. :)

Make sure to use your member discounts when placing your order!

Mopar Discount For FBBO Member

Thanks
James From
PST
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top