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69 Charger on the autocross

Rusty knuckles

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I thought I'd make this thread to log my progress and share info from taking my 69 charger autocrossing. If this is not the right place, mods please move it. I've read lots of threads on lots of forums and it seems like there's an interest in making these cars handle but not a lot of data to support recommendations. It's inspired by the b bodies and road courses thread by superbeemike. I've read that thread several times, used some as guidance, but also done my own thing.

My car is pretty plain. A 383 auto with an intake and headers. Stock cam. It still retains it's A/C even. With a full tank and me in it weighs 4080lbs. 2260 on the front 1780 on the rear. Weighed on a truck scale with 20lb resolution but close enough for me. I don't even take out my spare tire, jack, or other easily discarded weight.

I got the bug to go racing and so found a 7/8" rear sway bar and added a 1-1/8" front bar. Leaf springs and torsion bars are 65 year old stock pieces. Bushings, ball joints, etc good enough to drive on but not new. Shocks were the cheapest thing you could buy from napa. So a very cheap and very stock suspension aside from the sway bars. No chassis stiffening.

Tires are 205/70-14 front and 245/60-15 rear cooper cobras. Man talk about tire squish! I have video. Tires play peakaboo in the fender wells on corners. I played a little with tire pressure but found you really have to run them high to keep from driving on the raised white letters.

Brakes are 11" power drums on all 4 corners adjusted properly. I have no problem locking them up in a panic stop. Heat fade is not a concern. I've found my best times are the runs I use very little brake at all. But even if I intentionally push very aggressively my brakes don't warm up much.

So how does it run on the course in this trim? Slow. Not embarrassingly slow but I'm generally in the bottom 3. About 9 seconds off the top fastest guys on what we'll say is an average 50sec lap. Unfortunately I don't have a baseline with no sway bars. That might be interesting if I could unhook them at an upcoming event.

But how does it feel? Honestly not bad. If you try to brake hard in the corner it pushes pretty bad. If you're hard on the throttle it tends to get a little loose but if you can maintain a neutral throttle it feels balanced. But the tires are 100% giving up. So it's kinda like, the front slides, the back slides, or you d a 4 wheel slide. You're guaranteed to slide.

So in the next posts I'll list any updates or changes I've made and how they feel and if possible, time improvement.
 
Those tall sidewalls and hard tread deliver a decent ride but are inadequate for steering response and grip.
Many people don't like the look of a low profile tire but these grab the road and allow the car to steer much like a newer car.

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Comparing times on the track with different mods is pretty tough. The track changes each time and the technical elements change as well. So I can't say I swapped x-part and got .125 seconds faster. What I can do is compare against a couple guys who consistently come, run well and in the same heats as me, and my times are generally consistent against them. Using that as a guide I can determine with about .5sec resolution if there was improvement. Nothing says they haven't changed there cars either. It's just I notice consistency in our times relative to each other.

As a baseline on an average 50 sec course, the faster guy ran 45.247, the next, 47.697, me 54.00. So I'm about 9 sec slower than the fast guy and 6.5 sec slower than the other one.

The first cheap mod I made was the F150 sway bar link upgrade. At $20 each, I didn't think it could hurt. These don't use rubber washers to attached but use like a spherical rod end. Much more positive connection to the sway bar and the LCA. 2015 F150 sway bar link I can't say these made any improvement in times. What I can say about the feel is that I certainly felt the sway bar being more firmly connected. I didn't have the squeaking and popping as I had with the regular links. So this feels like an improvement even if I couldn't determine it on the clock.
 
The next improvement I made was rebuilding the whole front end. I noticed one tire was starting to wear funny and knew my LCA bushing was going out. So I ordered all new components, all moog. Then set about changing everything out. I realized during this process my front right shock was shot. Of course then I had to have it aligned again and gave the tire shop a -2 to -3 deg target on the camber and told them get as much caster as you can but the camber is more important.

Knowing my shocks were shot I needed some new ones. I really wanted to buy the bilsteins but I just really couldn't swing it cost wise for some other improvements I am heading for. So I settled for a set of KYB gas-a-just monotubes. I've read these are extremely stiff but that has not been my experience for what that's worth. They are a little firmer but I certainly don't notice a rough ride that others have complained about.

With these changes the Charger was a whole different car on the track. It felt better, turned better, stuck better. I could really feel a difference. The time improvement was dramatic as well.

On the 50sec course against the same 2 guys noted previously we ran 46.212, 48.659, and 54.133 respectively. This is a full second improvement for me compared to those guys.

I just ordered wheels and tires yesterday and next autocross is June 2nd. So I'm looking forward to seeing what this does. I hope they get here in time...
 
Thanks for sharing! I'll enjoy reading your future posts on this.
One word of caution - I also run an auto trans (big block 727) and have road raced my car a few times, but only once every few years. One of the guys frrom Hotchkis runs a total vehicle system on his 68 RR and tracks his car very often. I've seen him run in person a few times and have read a few articles where he talked about his autocross experience with that car. One thing that stuck in my brain was his transmission experience. He said he burned up three separate 727's before he converted the car to a manual trans setup. Transmission heat is your enemy and if you track your car often and end up pushing your car hard with that automatic with all the quick speed ups / slow downs, it may give you trouble sooner than you expect.
 
The first cheap mod I made was the F150 sway bar link upgrade. At $20 each, I didn't think it could hurt. These don't use rubber washers to attached but use like a spherical rod end. Much more positive connection to the sway bar and the LCA. 2015 F150 sway bar link I can't say these made any improvement in times. What I can say about the feel is that I certainly felt the sway bar being more firmly connected. I didn't have the squeaking and popping as I had with the regular links. So this feels like an improvement even if I couldn't determine it on the clock.
Did you cut the middle length and re-weld per the Mopar Action Rick E tech article? I've been curious to do this on my car.
 
Thanks for sharing! I'll enjoy reading your future posts on this.
One word of caution - I also run an auto trans (big block 727) and have road raced my car a few times, but only once every few years. One of the guys frrom Hotchkis runs a total vehicle system on his 68 RR and tracks his car very often. I've seen him run in person a few times and have read a few articles where he talked about his autocross experience with that car. One thing that stuck in my brain was his transmission experience. He said he burned up three separate 727's before he converted the car to a manual trans setup. Transmission heat is your enemy and if you track your car often and end up pushing your car hard with that automatic with all the quick speed ups / slow downs, it may give you trouble sooner than you expect.
Here's Dan W's 68 RR and the article in question I had read:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/ccrp-1112-dan-weisharr-1968-plymouth-roadrunner/
Transmission:Obviously, a TKO-600 transmission is not original to the car. Dan finally switched to a manual trans after burning up five 727 automatics while competing in autocrosses and open track events. "It got to the point where I'd have one rebuilt and ready to go, one on the bench in the process of being rebuilt, and one out of the car waiting to be rebuilt," Dan says. "My friends and I got really good at doing the job. As soon as I felt the one in the car start slipping, we'd swap it out for the freshly rebuilt one." Realizing a manual transmission would be more suitable for the type of driving he wanted to do, Dan took the plunge on a new Tremec from Hurst Driveline.

In later articles I've read that when running his car he often just leaves the trans in 1st gear and uses the throttle, steering, and brakes to do the rest. The motor is a mildly worked 383 with not a lot of power.

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Here's Dan W's 68 RR and the article in question I had read:
https://www.motortrend.com/features/ccrp-1112-dan-weisharr-1968-plymouth-roadrunner/
Transmission:Obviously, a TKO-600 transmission is not original to the car. Dan finally switched to a manual trans after burning up five 727 automatics while competing in autocrosses and open track events. "It got to the point where I'd have one rebuilt and ready to go, one on the bench in the process of being rebuilt, and one out of the car waiting to be rebuilt," Dan says. "My friends and I got really good at doing the job. As soon as I felt the one in the car start slipping, we'd swap it out for the freshly rebuilt one." Realizing a manual transmission would be more suitable for the type of driving he wanted to do, Dan took the plunge on a new Tremec from Hurst Driveline.

In later articles I've read that when running his car he often just leaves the trans in 1st gear and uses the throttle, steering, and brakes to do the rest. The motor is a mildly worked 383 with not a lot of power.

View attachment 1666977
Thats interesting and I could see how that would happen. My trans does get warm I'm sure. I haven't noticed any issues yet but heat soak between runs during a heat is definitely a concern.
 
OP, we need some full size photos of your car:) we're suckers for 2nd gen Charger photos around here.
 
The 70-72 B models need shorter end links than the 66-69 models.
 
Oh one more modification I forgot about that doesn't have anything to do with suspension. My first couple autocrosses I ran with a stock oil pan and 10-30 oil. Absolutely was not adequate. I was fine until the oil got hot and when it did, after my run I'd hear a lifter tick. It would always come out of it after i let it cool down but was certainly not good. I upgraded to a 6qt pan and am running 20-50 oil now and have never had the problem again.
 
Makes me happy to see another member wanting to pursue auto x. Thats one of my goals plus road course stuff too. Twisty stuff is more fun than straight-line. At least for me.
 
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