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69 passenger door vent channel

Dennis H

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a1electric aftermarket power window. Good switch and power. Window struggles going up and leaves a 1/4 inc gap at top. Is the felt supposed to travel with the window or stay in the channel? Think it is an alignment issue. Every time I go in, there is more collateral damage with the panel or clips. Thought it could be muscled into alignment or lubed. Advice?
 
The thin, plastic felt is held to the glass through two holes and kept in place by the plastic guides. So is does suppose to go up and down with the glass. Is the lower adjustment bracket still intact (if it is the same as manual windows) as they like to break off?
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The screw inside the top of the channel looks loose and maybe a little damaged? It should sit just about if not flush.
 
The channel felt is supposed to move up & down?? That just sounds WRONG! I know I've worked on other types doors where there were set screws in channel & felt specifically to keep the channel felt from moving.
 
I’ve never seen a channel felt that moves with the glass(cars, semi’s). Think you have alignment problem(at the least) also.
 
The division channel seal attaches to the front of the glass on the side window using the supplied pins and the plastic guides rub the channel as the glass goes up and down. When the seal gets dry and brittle it can bunch up and prevent proper movement.

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So we have a consensus that Ma Mopar has the felt attached and cling to and move up and down with the glass in the channel against the norms of most manufacturers? Also that the top screw is not seated and the felt can bunch up. Do I have it right?
 
So we have a consensus that Ma Mopar has the felt attached and cling to and move up and down with the glass in the channel against the norms of most manufacturers? Also that the top screw is not seated and the felt can bunch up. Do I have it right?

Yes lol. The "felt" is nothing more than thin plastic. Look in the chrome channel, the groove on either side is where the plastic guides ride. And save your old guides, the new ones jam up.
 
If you do not have those guides or are damaged I have some extras.....

I procrastinate dealing with glass on Mopars because they are tedious.....If your not taking apart now take some detailer silicone spray and soak the channel moving the glass up and down....

You just missed a pair of NOS channel felts on moparts sold for a cheap price 75 bucks for the pair....they usually go for 150.....for a flipping piece of plastic...

As threewood stated make sure the lower bracket is intact and installed(remove the bottom plug on the door and check....

How does the rear of the door glass meet with the 1/4 glass when in the up position?
 
I didn't disclose what I think started this, the stopper is gone. It was the piece rattling around in the door for years. I didn't know what it was til identified here on FBBO. Not sure I can find it, but don't have the skill to tac weld it or whatever is needed for repair. Tried to secure it with zip ties to no avail. The window was allowed to drop inside the door. I think the glass itself is tilted forward. I'll take a picture tomorrow of the best closed position attainable.
 
I didn't disclose what I think started this, the stopper is gone. It was the piece rattling around in the door for years. I didn't know what it was til identified here on FBBO. Not sure I can find it, but don't have the skill to tac weld it or whatever is needed for repair. Tried to secure it with zip ties to no avail. The window was allowed to drop inside the door. I think the glass itself is tilted forward. I'll take a picture tomorrow of the best closed position attainable.
Tilted forward as in towards the headliner? If so the adjustment for that is the lower plug hole below the latch mechanism. Unscrew the nut a little and with the glass up pull the glass out a little....
 
To bad you dont live closer we could put down a few and get it figured out. Yes it is a Hokey set up but thats what we have to deal with. Did mine last year and it works as it should. I think Ma still sells the felts and clips but they are getting scarce. E-bugger used to have em but his stock is low. IIRC the top rivet gets loose and can put it in a bind. Sounds like a road trip to San Jose could be in the cards. Anything to get out of the rain and see some sunshine.
 
We have plenty of that. There are a few more things while you are here...
 
Hmmm, Got to go to Reno on a rescue mission soon. A jog to the Bay aint out of the question. I can bring my new welder too..
 
Do not use the clips that come with any of the report felts....unless you shave them down...they will bind and will lead to damaging your new felts....

Reuse your old clips....Mopar no longer makes them....
 
Worked fine on mine but still have the originals. Dennis can have em. Merry Christmas..
 
In case you need the seal...There are plastic repops available but do not by any means buy them. Buy the Mylar division channel seals.
 
That gap at the top is caused by the channel you installed hitting the screw. The screw won’t sit flush cause it’s not countersunk. Remove the screw, disconnect the regulator from the glass, remove the rubber stop at the top. Carefully separate the vent glass frame enough to slide the glass up through the top. Expose just enough to be able to cut 3/4” off the leading edge of the plastic channel.
This was my Thanksgiving project and my fix. The channel is still tight with the new felts but the glass goes all the way up. That piece on the bottom can also be bolted to the channel with some mods.
 
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The screw did take a full turn. The glass is tilted forward. The top of the leading edge of the glass is closer to the front fender and binds on the way up.
 
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