69 Roadrunner goes completely dead intemittently. HELP!!!

[Dennis H]

Modified car but FYI. Still not resolved.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?75530-Sporadic-engine-cut-off-69-Coronet

 

[wantahemi]

At this point, no matter what it takes is what I will be doing. I can't have a car that breaks down all the time for a gremlin. Interesting point with the MSD though. One more piece to the puzzle. I have to know, so I will be digging all around to find the issue. Just want reliability ...

 

[wantahemi]

Sounds like my gremlin and yours are doing the same thing. You have all the same issues with lots of upgrades. I'm thinking harness issues more and more. I am resolved to find it. I will keep you in the loop.

 

[Dennis H]

Mine always starts back up immediately. I'm changing the ignition first. Interruption is so brief, it is undetectable while moving. As I go it it will be driven at night to see if the headlights go off.

 

[wantahemi]

With mine, if you are cruising along and turn headlights on quickly, everything cuts out for a split second and then stays on. Not every time, but enough to make me park it until I figure this out. Irritating but necessary.

 

[sleepar]

The original harness was weak at best New.... do the mad electrical up grades... relays on the loads so the harness and switches is just actuating the relays and a by pass on the amp gauge and fatten up all the grounds x2... when it cuts out its a surge of power that switches from drawing power from the alternator as the switch is pulled to drawing it off the battery because for the split second the surge over comes the alternator but a moment later the voltage regulator flutters but the surge is gone and the alt can handle it.... do the up grades no more gremlins....

 

[Dennis H]

With mine, if you are cruising along and turn headlights on quickly, everything cuts out for a split second and then stays on. Not every time, but enough to make me park it until I figure this out. Irritating but necessary.

That is a gift! Start there. Mine gives no warning and dies not starting with a load command-that I know of. Unless it is the AC compressor. One time nothing happened when the ignition key was turned. Enough speculation.

 

[wantahemi]

OK, so the wiring harness is getting replaced from front to back. Who makes the best reproduction out there? I just want to make sure I get what I pay for, not looking for the cheap way out.

Thanks SLEEPAR

 

[sleepar]

Year one and do the mad electrical up grade with relays and nacho on here from Venezuela has a great thread about it too that eliminates the known problems these cars all have had since New.

 

[wantahemi]

Took apart bulkhead connectors. Don't look awful to me. How about everyone else? Any issues? Help appreciated!

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View attachment 199049

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[monaco66coupe]

looks good, lets se the connectors around that alt gauge..

 

[wantahemi]

There is one that sticks out that is copper colored. Perhaps its not copper but overheated. Thanks

 

[wantahemi]

Amp gauge, back of bulkhead, ignition switch

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[daredevil]

I try the simple stuff first. Sounds like a bad ground cable. It grounds thru the small wire radiator wall to the ground post but when you turn on the headlights it overloads the ground.Try cleaning the connection to the block or another ground cable. You could even add a second from the battery to the block. If problem disappears you have found your problem.

 

[Dennis H]

I am here to learn. Wish mine looked as clean as that. Question, check for anything loose and spray with contact cleaner as you go? Reassemble and take notes. Right?

 

[wantahemi]

Definitely, learning as I go. I see nothing but potential failure and fire with that bulkhead connector. Appears ripe for loose connection / overheating. After looking at harness replacements, beginning to think replacing just gets me in same boat with new wiring. I am most worried about the ammeter wiring. Looks fine, but no reason to bring wiring that big into cabin. Think its time to come up with a clean relay setup. Oh well back to the drawing board. Personally think I need to take the charge wire from alternator and route to battery via fusible link.

Anyone see any issues with pics?

 

[mguesto]

do apply grease to the bulkhead connections to prevent rust from forming. I had to purchase a new
ignition switch for my GTX ( did not install yet) from Tony's autoparts in Delaware. He seemed to
be the cheapest at the time. I got the entire lock and key set. I think it was around $90 or so. He is on the internet.

Remember this, as I was shopping. It turns out that 1969 is a one off year for the ignition switch.
So be sure you get the correct one is you need to go this route.

 

[wantahemi]

I'm thinking that connections need disassembled, filed or cleaned, tighten fittings, clean, dielectric grease lightly and then connect and verify continuity and resistance from end to end.

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Thanks for the ignition switch update. Trying to keep original. Basically a time capsule. However with the wiring, I think it has to be updated. The key will be making it look old and stock, but ridiculously reliable and safe. I think its got to be Bosch relays, modern fyseblock, and some razzle dazzle to hide it all. Let the brainstorming begin

 

[monaco66coupe]

My 68' Charger has the original harness,owned since 1985, functions perfectly, with no problems. 69' Coronet all original,owned since 1997, no problems. 69' GTS,since 1990, no problems. Cars that have been abused have problems. Factory harnesses work well, if they are abused, different story.

 

[wantahemi]

I guess at the end of the day, that's what's bothering me. This harness looks good ( granted can be deceiving), but this car is clean and with exception of gauges added, harness is clean and in great shape. I see the flaws in the original designs, but really don't want to butcher a car or swap things to say I did. However I will be pissed if the last pic I post is a burned out RR and a pic of insurance check...