69 Super Bee EFI Conversion Plan

[DevEngNerd]

Hi all. I am getting the parts together to do a carb to EFI conversion on my 1969 Super Bee. I'm posting this to document my plan but also to get feedback, ideas, or hear any gotchas that I haven't thought of. I currently have a 383 with MSD ignition.

I bought an MSD Atomic 2 EFI kit. This has an integrated fuel pump relay so I won't need to install a relay. Most of it is plug-and-play, but I do need to find a 12v switched power source that maintains 12v while starting/cranking the engine. This 12v powers the handheld control unit screen/display and cannot lose power or reset during staring. I plan to use either the ignition switch or a spot in the fuse box for this switchable 12v power, I don't know, this is probably the thing I'm most unsure of.

MSD Atomic 2 EFI
MSD Ignition 2910-2 MSD Atomic 2 EFI Throttle Body Systems | Summit Racing

I found what looks to be a great solution for the high pressure fuel pump, the Holley OEM in-tank fuel pump shown below. This seems to be a great solution because:
--- It is in-tank which is highly preferred by manufacturers for multiple reasons
--- Has an integrated pressure regulator, so you don't need to install one
--- Returns fuel directly into the tank, so no return line is needed
--- Can use the existing hard fuel lines
--- Direct fit for stock gas tank, so no cutting holes in the tank for a drop-in pump
--- No baffle needed to prevent cavitation

I am not planning to use the EFI to control timing right away, maybe later down the line, I just want to keep it simple for now.

https://www.holley.com/products/fue...cessories/muscle_car_efi_modules/parts/12-314

 

[493 Mike]

Just tie the blue and brown wires at the ballast resister together and you will have 12 volts at cranking and running. You won't need to reduce voltage for the coil, so it is an easy source.
Mike

 

[Green72]

I used Atomic on my 440 about 12 years ago. I then used the same unit on a 512 stroker build and it worked great on that also. It was flawless in its operation. Your plan looks good, love that fuel pump option! Really simplifies things.

 

[pnora]

Hi all. I am getting the parts together to do a carb to EFI conversion on my 1969 Super Bee. I'm posting this to document my plan but also to get feedback, ideas, or hear any gotchas that I haven't thought of. I currently have a 383 with MSD ignition.

I bought an MSD Atomic 2 EFI kit. This has an integrated fuel pump relay so I won't need to install a relay. Most of it is plug-and-play, but I do need to find a 12v switched power source that maintains 12v while starting/cranking the engine. This 12v powers the handheld control unit screen/display and cannot lose power or reset during staring. I plan to use either the ignition switch or a spot in the fuse box for this switchable 12v power, I don't know, this is probably the thing I'm most unsure of.

MSD Atomic 2 EFI
MSD Ignition 2910-2 MSD Atomic 2 EFI Throttle Body Systems | Summit Racing

I found what looks to be a great solution for the high pressure fuel pump, the Holley OEM in-tank fuel pump shown below. This seems to be a great solution because:
--- It is in-tank which is highly preferred by manufacturers for multiple reasons
--- Has an integrated pressure regulator, so you don't need to install one
--- Returns fuel directly into the tank, so no return line is needed
--- Can use the existing hard fuel lines
--- Direct fit for stock gas tank, so no cutting holes in the tank for a drop-in pump
--- No baffle needed to prevent cavitation

I am not planning to use the EFI to control timing right away, maybe later down the line, I just want to keep it simple for now.

https://www.holley.com/products/fue...cessories/muscle_car_efi_modules/parts/12-314
View attachment 1963565

Might call and check on the MSD 2910-2 I believe it was discontinued.

 

[andrewwoz]

Just wrapping up putting a terminator x stealth in my super bee, I went with the Aeromotive stealth tank and 340lph pump and set it up on an MSD solid state relay (didn't need to do this but I had the installed the tank when it was still carbureted). The switched 12v source for the relay and ecu is pulling from the fuse box. I needed a 2nd switched 12v for the hyperspark which I used the blue wire for (already ditched the ballast resistor)

 

[murfman]

Hi all. I am getting the parts together to do a carb to EFI conversion on my 1969 Super Bee. I'm posting this to document my plan but also to get feedback, ideas, or hear any gotchas that I haven't thought of. I currently have a 383 with MSD ignition.

I bought an MSD Atomic 2 EFI kit. This has an integrated fuel pump relay so I won't need to install a relay. Most of it is plug-and-play, but I do need to find a 12v switched power source that maintains 12v while starting/cranking the engine. This 12v powers the handheld control unit screen/display and cannot lose power or reset during staring. I plan to use either the ignition switch or a spot in the fuse box for this switchable 12v power, I don't know, this is probably the thing I'm most unsure of.

MSD Atomic 2 EFI
MSD Ignition 2910-2 MSD Atomic 2 EFI Throttle Body Systems | Summit Racing

I found what looks to be a great solution for the high pressure fuel pump, the Holley OEM in-tank fuel pump shown below. This seems to be a great solution because:
--- It is in-tank which is highly preferred by manufacturers for multiple reasons
--- Has an integrated pressure regulator, so you don't need to install one
--- Returns fuel directly into the tank, so no return line is needed
--- Can use the existing hard fuel lines
--- Direct fit for stock gas tank, so no cutting holes in the tank for a drop-in pump
--- No baffle needed to prevent cavitation

I am not planning to use the EFI to control timing right away, maybe later down the line, I just want to keep it simple for now.

https://www.holley.com/products/fue...cessories/muscle_car_efi_modules/parts/12-314
View attachment 1963565

I’d recommend a tank from Tanks inc in Iowa. They make a nice replacement tank with a well for an EFI pump

 

[Green72]

I know you said that you don't plan to use the timing feature right away. I did the same thing, then after a while I went ahead and enabled the timing feature. It also worked well. I think you are going to be very happy with the consistent performance and drivability.

 

[Green72]

I’d recommend a tank from Tanks inc in Iowa. They make a nice replacement tank with a well for an EFI pump

Tanks Inc. is about 20 miles from where I live. The products that i have used from them are top notch. The OP doesn't need to switch tanks if he uses the pump that he mentions in his post. Do you see a downside to the pump that he wants to use?

 

[matthon]

Not so short list of what I did.

Power hub under the dash.

IGN run and IGN start both go to the power hub, and I feed the FiTech, coil, fusebox ignition accessories, and voltmeter from it.

Ground hub under dash and another next to battery. Ground everything, including tbs, gas tank, alternator, etc.

No more running/splicing wires together, bad connections, multiple wires on the battery terminals, etc.

All screwed down with round connectors and sleeves on the wires.

Good solid connections on expandable hubs.

TanksInc tank, has the internal baffle, aka bathtub, to ensure full fuel psi at all times, dedicated holes for in tank pump and gauge unit. Also has a vent port on the tank.

Shielded coil and distributor wires.

Fragola PTFE stainless wrapped fuel lines with their AN connectors, no crimping required, wrench on, easy peasy.

Make sure the in tank fuel hose is submersible, not just efi rated.

I recommend Cooper Standard PA12.

There's a difference between efi hose and submersible hose.

In modern fuel, regular efi hose will swell, lose the seal on the hard lines, fuel pressure dives, engine cuts out.

Get a fuel psi gauge.

My FiTech requires 58psi at all times and uses PWM to run the fuel pump. I can run the 'corvette' filter/regulator, bolted to the frame near the tank, one fuel line up to the tbs.

Other efi systems have different psi requirements and pump control.

Saving timing control until after everything is sorted is a good approach, I did the same.

Available information on timing control that's out there is garbage and incomplete, at least when I did it. Even the MSD info that came with it was terrible.

Very happy with it though, lowered temperature overall too.

Also, some efis require a minimum operating temperature to disengage idle setting.

That's enough, for now.

 

[DevEngNerd]

Just tie the blue and brown wires at the ballast resister together and you will have 12 volts at cranking and running. You won't need to reduce voltage for the coil, so it is an easy source.
Mike

My ballast resistor is still hooked up and always has been. Do I keep it with the MSD ignition, or do I delete it and use the wires for the 12v?

 

[DevEngNerd]

I used Atomic on my 440 about 12 years ago. I then used the same unit on a 512 stroker build and it worked great on that also. It was flawless in its operation. Your plan looks good, love that fuel pump option! Really simplifies things.

Yeah that OEM style fuel sender/pump is not cheap, but it sure takes care of a lot of the issues with the conversion.

 

[493 Mike]

My ballast resistor is still hooked up and always has been. Do I keep it with the MSD ignition, or do I delete it and use the wires for the 12v?

I was under the impression that you were currently using the MSD system. It should come with installation instructions. I was just suggesting a source for constant 12 volts to power the EFI.
Mike

 

[nitro_rat]

Tanks Inc. is about 20 miles from where I live. The products that i have used from them are top notch. The OP doesn't need to switch tanks if he uses the pump that he mentions in his post. Do you see a downside to the pump that he wants to use?

The downside of the Holley pump thing is that it's internally regulated (58 psi). Holley is a business and they're in business to make money. Some products they make due to market demand, not performance (like the carb intakes for LS engines). This is one of those items. I won't name any names but insiders at Holley do not recommend these units. They much prefer an external regulator mounted closer to the fuel rail and a return line. I anticipate it being possible to block the internal regulator and route a return line but I can't imagine that being easier than starting with a regular sending unit and modifying that for a fuel pump...

I much prefer the tank from Tanks, Inc. There's also a tank from Spectra Premium that appears to include a pump, sender, and a return inlet that may be a good option.