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71 Plymouth satellite (continued)

Oppose.o

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It has been a year or two since my first post, (in summary I am a 14 year old trying to get a low mileage 71 satellite 318 running after it sat for 20 years). Feel free to look at that one on my profile for more info. I am trying to figure out where to start on it now. I will try again but so far the crankshaft hasn't turned (I am pulling from the base of the radiator fan). Does that mean that the engine would have to be swapped?
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Welcome to the site. You can post more photos in your original thread you know. Is long as they aren't too big you can post 10 each post in the same thread. That will keep all your information in the same thread.
 
Welcome to the site. You can post more photos in your original thread you know. Is long as they aren't too big you can post 10 each post in the same thread. That will keep all your information in the same thread.
Thanks, I just posted this to get more attention to it because I didn't know if it would show up to other people if I added to the old one.
 
Are you trying to say that you have a socket on the crankshaft bolt? The 1st thing you should do is pull the spark plugs and spray WD40 in the cylinders. Let it sit for awhile before trying to rotate the engine.
 
Thanks, I just posted this to get more attention to it because I didn't know if it would show up to other people if I added to the old one.
You posted this one in the Welcome wagon forum. That is for introducing yourself. Probably not the best forum to post in if you want to expand the conversation. 71-74 Mopars would be the best. If you have specific questions about the engine, the small block forum would be the best choice.
 
Hey Oppose, welcome if I didn't catch you the first time around. I know where you're coming from with your interest in that Satellite. When I was your age, all I could think about was cars and getting my first one. You'll learn a lot from working on it and talking to the guys and gals here on this site. It's all good! Take toolmanmike's advice and start a thread in the small block forum right here on FBBO with your current questions. Wishing you the best young man!
 
Are you trying to say that you have a socket on the crankshaft bolt? The 1st thing you should do is pull the spark plugs and spray WD40 in the cylinders. Let it sit for awhile before trying to rotate the engine.
Thanks, how do I spray it in the cylinders? Do I have to take the valves and stuff out or is there an easier way? And what benefit does taking out the spark plugs have? I'm slowly learning
 
Spray it into the spark plug holes for starters. Use up 1/2 a can. Put the plugs back in but leave them loose. Let it set for a couple of days. Then try and turn the engine over with a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. You can try this a couple of times, and then if this does not work more drastic attempts must take place. Having the plugs loose but not out keep crap outta the cylinders but lets air escape when cranking. Good luck!
 
Spray it into the spark plug holes for starters. Use up 1/2 a can. Put the plugs back in but leave them loose. Let it set for a couple of days. Then try and turn the engine over with a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. You can try this a couple of times, and then if this does not work more drastic attempts must take place. Having the plugs loose but not out keep crap outta the cylinders but lets air escape when cranking. Good luck!
Thanks! But how can I put the breaker bar down there? The radiator is blocking everything.
 
Everyone has their own ways but what @#41 said is one of the most popular ways. That said...

There are several ways and they all pretty much work the same. I knew my engine was well oiled when it ran and was kept in a garage for the 30 years it sat. I was fairly confident I could get it to turn by hand by going the oil route instead of the WD40 or another popular way, trans fluid. If oil or WD40 don't work, like @#41 said, it's gonna get more involved.

I basically squirt a solid shot glass worth of 10W30 in each cylinder (a good 1.5 ounces or half+ of a bathroom dixie cup) and then let it sit for 24 hours. I used a bottle from a dollar store (yellow bottle has oil, red has gas) that I filled with oil and squeezed on about 18" or so of fish tank air tubing so that I could feed the end into each cylinder and squirt in some oil. I also pulled the valve covers and drizzled some oil on the rockers and on the push rods and valve springs/valves. After 24 or so hours, I cranked it by hand on the crank pulley bolt. Once it turns, with the valve covers off, you can also make sure all of the valves are moving up and down and you should be able to spin each pushrod around at some point in the engine cranking when the rocker arm isn't pushing on it.

You'll probably need to remove the fan shroud and possibly the fan if you still need more room for the breaker bar/rachet.
Good luck and ask away!

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Thanks! But how can I put the breaker bar down there? The radiator is blocking everything.
Im also curious because the valve covers are already unbolted if I need to look for anything wrong or if I should just put the bolts back on.
Everyone has their own ways but what @#41 said is one of the most popular ways. That said...

There are several ways and they all pretty much work the same. I knew my engine was well oiled when it ran and was kept in a garage for the 30 years it sat. I was fairly confident I could get it to turn by hand by going the oil route instead of the WD40 or another popular way, trans fluid. If oil or WD40 don't work, like @#41 said, it's gonna get more involved.

I basically squirt a solid shot glass worth of 10W30 in each cylinder (a good 1.5 ounces or half+ of a bathroom dixie cup) and then let it sit for 24 hours. I used a bottle from a dollar store (yellow bottle has oil, red has gas) that I filled with oil and squeezed on about 18" or so of fish tank air tubing so that I could feed the end into each cylinder and squirt in some oil. I also pulled the valve covers and drizzled some oil on the rockers and on the push rods and valve springs/valves. After 24 or so hours, I cranked it by hand on the crank pulley bolt. Once it turns, with the valve covers off, you can also make sure all of the valves are moving up and down and you should be able to spin each pushrod around at some point in the engine cranking when the rocker arm isn't pushing on it.

You'll probably need to remove the fan shroud and possibly the fan if you still need more room for the breaker bar/rachet.
Good luck and ask away!

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Thanks! So just feed the tubing into the hole from the spark plug?
 
Im also curious because the valve covers are already unbolted if I need to look for anything wrong or if I should just put the bolts back on.

Thanks! So just feed the tubing into the hole from the spark plug?
I'd pull the valve covers off to drizzle some oil like I said to make sure the top end has some lube. You could actually check some of the pushrods at this point. Most should spin freely when you grab them and rotate them. Then I'd set the valve covers back on (not bolted) until I could rotate the engine that evening or the next day, pop the covers and see if the valves are opening and closing and checking the remaining pushrods.

And yeah. Right in the spark plug hole like an inch or two. If you don't use a tube it'll be quite messy tipping the bottle mostly upside down. With a tube you can just tilt it a little and squeeze. That's kinda why WD40 is used a bit because it's easy to get in the spark plug hole but a little hard to judge how much is going in and it's quite thin. A lot will run right past the rings. With oil, it will get spread around as you turn the engine by hand at a breakneck 1/10rpm. Maybe I'm wrong, but I think the point of the WD40 way is if you're gonna try firing it up. It'll wet the cylinder corrosion if there is any and will offer some protection initially until the oil pump kicks in. I'd personally try the oil first since it's a bit easier. If it's still not budging then fill it with WD40 and follow @#41 post. His advice is solid :thumbsup:

Maybe others will chime in before you get to it with their opinion. I don't have anywhere as much experience at freeing up old engines as others. The two engines I've freed up have both been by the oil way BUT I also knew neither would have much, if any, internal corrosion.
 
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