72 Satellite Gen III Hemi Restomod

[5.7 hemi]

It’s gotta run out on the road for the learning process.

 

[supergluehero]

I think I figured out why I had an exhaust leak. I must not have been on my A game that day.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Yup, that’ll do it!

 

[supergluehero]

Still have some tuning to do, but look what moves under it's own power today. It even went down the street and back.

 

[70chall440]

Thats awesome!!

 

[71dodgechargerrt]

Now you can enjoy it. Looks great.

 

[supergluehero]

Every time I look at something I haven't touched, I realize that it needs work. So I went to put my glove box back in today and instead decided to repaint it.

It's the little things that are going to keep dragging this out.

 

[70chall440]

Every time I look at something I haven't touched, I realize that it needs work. So I went to put my glove box back in today and instead decided to repaint it.
View attachment 1631012It's the little things that are going to keep dragging this out.

Anyone who actually builds cars will tell you that it is the last 10% that takes 90% of the time. You are absolutely correct, it is the "little" things that take so much time but that is car building.

 

[supergluehero]

I got my diode wired in tonight so now my fans should turn on sequentially instead of the same time. Still need to test it.

I also got my light switch nut, but of course I had to drill out the plastic for the non Ralley style so now it's too big. I painted up a washer and nut while I was at it. The paint all scraped off installing it so paint in place it is.

I was going to paint my light switch later, but it'd be a pain to do it later. I mixed up some paint and used a drill to spin the switch to get it painted round.

 

[70chall440]

Arts and crafts day... nice.

 

[supergluehero]

I got the dash installed tonight. One of my vacuum tubes broke off the heater control box. I'd already spent too many hours folded up under the dash so I shoved the tube into the plug and hoped for the best. I'm not in the right mindset to fix it properly right now considering how much work it would take. Also lost my steering wheel nut. Found another that's a bit too tall, but it'll work for now. The horn is still functional.

Now that everything is mostly secure I can try and bed the brakes and discover other issues, maybe go on a proper drive that exceeds 20 mph

 

[hpg4815]

Got the rear suspension bar mocked up.
View attachment 1528865
I also cleaned up the vapor canister.
View attachment 1528866

where does the 5th hose go from the vapor canister? 4 from the tank and the last goes?

 

[supergluehero]

where does the 5th hose go from the vapor canister? 4 from the tank and the last goes?

I'd have to go back and look at the service manual to know which is which, but 3 are vents from the tank, one is a return line to the tank and the fifth is the return line from the engine bay. I didn't use that last one.

 

[hpg4815]

I'd have to go back and look at the service manual to know which is which, but 3 are vents from the tank, one is a return line to the tank and the fifth is the return line from the engine bay. I didn't use that last one.

I have a 72 charger, and I installed Gen II Stealth Tanks, 340 lph Pump, with a fitch EFI. The supply and return lines running from the pump which is opposite of the 4 vent tubes of the driver side of the tank. Currently I have them capped off and have a vented gas cap. I do not have that vapor canister as I think it was tossed out because it was all rusted out. Anything else you recommend I do? I'm more interested in anything I can do pertaining to safety. Perhaps use one vent tube for a roll over valve, but honestly not sure how all that would work at the moment. Or anything I can do to manage fumes or pressure build up in the tank.

 

[supergluehero]

I have a 72 charger, and I installed Gen II Stealth Tanks, 340 lph Pump, with a fitch EFI. The supply and return lines running from the pump which is opposite of the 4 vent tubes of the driver side of the tank. Currently I have them capped off and have a vented gas cap. I do not have that vapor canister as I think it was tossed out because it was all rusted out. Anything else you recommend I do? I'm more interested in anything I can do pertaining to safety. Perhaps use one vent tube for a roll over valve, but honestly not sure how all that would work at the moment. Or anything I can do to manage fumes or pressure build up in the tank.

I went back and forth on this a bit. A roll over valve needs to be higher than the tank. It doesn't really work as a breather though. I'm hoping there's enough volume in my vapor canister that it'll condense before I get gas vapors in the garage. I considered adding a rollover valve to my canister, but since the ports are at the bottom, I think I was worried that it might siphon the tank if enough vapors condensed. A simple line with a rollover valve should be fine if you're not worried about some gas smell.

 

[supergluehero]

I was able to drive the car and get the breaks bed last weekend. They work really well and have no issue locking up the tires. My idle right after crank is fine, but once I start driving it, it goes back up to 2000 or so. Otherwise it seems to run fine. I found a performance shop nearby that does tuning on Holley systems. I think I'll pay them a few hours work to make sure I haven't done anything stupid and get it running better than I can. It'll be a few weeks until they can take it. I may try a few things in the meantime.

I also found out that the TTI headers are very low. I only have 1.9" of clearance at the lowest point. As good as it looks, I'm probably going to have to raise the front a bit before getting an alignment.

 

[hpg4815]

I went back and forth on this a bit. A roll over valve needs to be higher than the tank. It doesn't really work as a breather though. I'm hoping there's enough volume in my vapor canister that it'll condense before I get gas vapors in the garage. I considered adding a rollover valve to my canister, but since the ports are at the bottom, I think I was worried that it might siphon the tank if enough vapors condensed. A simple line with a rollover valve should be fine if you're not worried about some gas smell.

Thanks. I am only asking about this as I am trying to learn, and would like to address a fume smell. That vapor canister looks like it has enough volume to do that (condense), but my first question is, would that exit out that 5th unused vent in the vapor canister? and if not, my second question is... would water build up be created during that condensation process and roll back into he tank?

 

[supergluehero]

Thanks. I am only asking about this as I am trying to learn, and would like to address a fume smell. That vapor canister looks like it has enough volume to do that (condense), but my first question is, would that exit out that 5th unused vent in the vapor canister? and if not, my second question is... would water build up be created during that condensation process and roll back into he tank?

A couple points of clarification, anything that condenses in that canister will drain back to the tank whether it be gasoline vapors or condensation (water). There's water in the air, so any water in the air will condense if it cools off enough in the vapor canister. That said it's more or less a closed system unless leave one of the tubes open. So there shouldn't be significant quantities of air making it's way into the canister where you have to worry about water condensing and running back to your fuel system.

 

[70chall440]

If you are getting gas vapors into the passenger compartment of the car then you have other issues going on here such as holes that are open, bad weather stripping, trunk lid not sealing, etc.

 

[supergluehero]

FYI for those that like the lowered look (like I do), the TTI headers are very low with my setup. I measured about 1.9" of clearance.

As much as I like it, I think I'm going to have to go up a little in the front.