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7260&1350 U joint part #

If your 489 still has the factory crush sleeve, removing and reinstalling /replacing the yoke could screw up the pinion depth
 
If your 489 still has the factory crush sleeve, removing and reinstalling /replacing the yoke could screw up the pinion depth
so if i go throu the process i ll have to check the wear patern after doing the swap if the yokes are compatible
 
Small nut (1 1/8")is 10 spline.
You may mess up your bearing preload if you do not get turning torque back to same value.
 
The other 489 does it have same gear ratio as the one in your car? If not what ratios are they? If you were changing just the seal, you could put a punch mark on yoke and nut. When you retighten the nut you would tighten so the mark on the nut is PAST the mark on the yoke. This crushes the crush sleeve a little more. Don't known if there is anyway to get a second crush on the sleeve when changing the yoke?
 
so if i go throu the process i ll have to check the wear patern after doing the swap if the yokes are compatible
It wouldn't change pinion depth. Pinion depth is controlled by the shim under the large rear bearing. If you remove and change yoke getting a used crush sleeve to crush more is the problem. If you put a new crush sleeve in check gear back lash measurement and check the gear pattern, take picture of drive and coast pattern before you do anything. When you reassemble get the back so it's the same as when you took it apart then check the pattern, some adjusting maybe needed. You can go to website mymopar.com and download a for a 69 or 70 service manual to see how factory does it. Look in section 3 Rear Axle. https://mymopar.com/service-manuals/
 
The other 489 does it have same gear ratio as the one in your car? If not what ratios are they? If you were changing just the seal, you could put a punch mark on yoke and nut. When you retighten the nut you would tighten so the mark on the nut is PAST the mark on the yoke. This crushes the crush sleeve a little more. Don't known if there is anyway to get a second crush on the sleeve when changing the yoke?
the spare one i have has a 3.23 ration the one the satellite has a 3.73 ratio
i m quite confused about the crushsleeve i m looking at the diagram and i dont see how the crush sleeve will interact with the yoke. will the yoke be pushing back the sleeve when tightening it in?

Thanks for all the great help and advices everyone
topic=12095.jpg
 
It crushes to provide the correct preload on the tapered bearings holding the pinion. It's basically to simplify the assembly process with a one time use disposable sleeve.
The small and large pinion centers use shims and a specific torque to preload the bearings.
Hope that helps.
If you want to change the seal on a 489 case you need a turning torque before disassembly and duplicate that upon reassembly, or marking it as mentioned will get you close and probably be okay for a non daily driver/continuous use unit.
 
It crushes to provide the correct preload on the tapered bearings holding the pinion. It's basically to simplify the assembly process with a one time use disposable sleeve.
The small and large pinion centers use shims and a specific torque to preload the bearings.
Hope that helps.
If you want to change the seal on a 489 case you need a turning torque before disassembly and duplicate that upon reassembly, or marking it as mentioned will get you close and probably be okay for a non daily driver/continuous use unit.
to be sure i understand properly since english isnt my primary language the preload is the torque resistance when turning the pinion right?
if yes then i might be a simpleton but wouldnt screwing the yoke nut little by little unti the torque resistance is the same be the way to go?
 
the preload is the torque resistance when turning the pinion right
Turning torque resistance is the result of preload, so in essence yes.
You can tighten the nut in small increments to get back to original turning torque.



Technically the preload is to properly engage the bearings to maintain radial alignment under different loads and temperatures. Not really part of this discussion.
Hope that translates okay, probably not, and I added to confusion.
 
Turning torque resistance is the result of preload, so in essence yes.
You can tighten the nut in small increments to get back to original turning torque.



Technically the preload is to properly engage the bearings to maintain radial alignment under different loads and temperatures. Not really part of this discussion.
Hope that translates okay, probably not, and I added to confusion.
okay so the technique to tighten by small increment until i get the initial turning torque wouldnt mess the crush sleeve, right ?
 
Picture 1 is a crush sleeve, note the wrinkle this is where it crushes. Picture 2 is a crush sleeve eliminator and shims. The eliminator is trial and error until you get the proper preload on pinion bearings. See a 67 service manual how to set pinion preload. The pinion eliminator is considered better than a crush sleeve in racing by most people. I hit full size twice oops.
crush.JPG
crush1.JPG
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crush1.JPG
 
the spare one i have has a 3.23 ration the one the satellite has a 3.73 ratio
i m quite confused about the crushsleeve i m looking at the diagram and i dont see how the crush sleeve will interact with the yoke. will the yoke be pushing back the sleeve when tightening it in?

Thanks for all the great help and advices everyone
View attachment 1163461
Th crush sleeve is between bearing inner races. Ss you tighten yoke the sleeve collapses you need to test bearing preload as you tighten. If you over tighten and have to much you can't loosen pinion nut because the nut won't be tight. You would need shims like in the eliminator kit to crush the sleeve more. Yea it's confusing.
 
I see now how the crush sleeve comes into play. I thought it was just to seat in the gap and seal a bit the front hole of the third member not to get the proper space between the pinion teeth and the threaded part where the yoke nut bolts in.
 
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