727 Not Pulling

[gtxrt]

you are right 19 for pre 67 and 24 for 67 and after. looks like you have the 2-hole filter which would be correct.

 

[Plumber452]

Tha

you are right 19 for pre 67 and 24 for 67 and after. looks like you have the 2-hole filter which would be correct.

Thanks!!! So what's your guess if the filter is correct and nothing obvious in the pan?

 

[gtxrt]

Tha

Thanks!!! So what's your guess if the filter is correct and nothing obvious in the pan?

if the filter and valve body is tight then it is over my head. almost 50 years ago i rebuilt my first engine going into my 68 gtx after a few miles the car wouldn't move somehow they said i messed up the front pump can't recall why i think the torque converter wasn't pushed in all the way on the third notch. I think i put the converter on the engine first.

 

[dvw]

If you think everything is correct t would be wise to pressure test before disasembly. I've had 2 cracked push button valve bodies on overhaul this year. One with these symptoms. It was cracked on the edge of the converter fill valve passage. Also had one with loose transfer plate screws that acted this way.
Doug

 

[tubalcain]

The car drove for 50 miles seemed to be OK. Suddenly, no or very little forward movement. Reverse is OK. Forward clutch failure would be the prime suspect.

 

[Plumber452]

If you think everything is correct t would be wise to pressure test before disasembly. I've had 2 cracked push button valve bodies on overhaul this year. One with these symptoms. It was cracked on the edge of the converter fill valve passage. Also had one with loose transfer plate screws that acted this way.
Doug

Good point. What kind of pressures should I see? I can look it up but which opening is which as far as supply/return or in/out or does for pressure does it matter?

 

[Plumber452]

The car drove for 50 miles seemed to be OK. Suddenly, no or very little forward movement. Reverse is OK. Forward clutch failure would be the prime suspect.

That's what I was kind of afraid of after reading that those seals can leak. I've never torn into an automatic transmission before but after watching some of the videos it doesn't look that bad to do a "Soft" rebuild. What's everyone's thoughts? I've done a couple of LS swaps, rebuilt a couple of old Chevys and all the other "Shadetree" stuff. A local shop wants eight hours labor @ $100/hr plus around $400.00 in parts if I bring it to him. Or twelve hours labor for him to do a R&R.

 

[tubalcain]

That's what I was kind of afraid of after reading that those seals can leak. I've never torn into an automatic transmission before but after watching some of the videos it doesn't look that bad to do a "Soft" rebuild. What's everyone's thoughts? I've done a couple of LS swaps, rebuilt a couple of old Chevys and all the other "Shadetree" stuff. A local shop wants eight hours labor @ $100/hr plus around $400.00 in parts if I bring it to him. Or twelve hours labor for him to do a R&R.

A "soft" rebuild would be about $300. What is your time worth is the question.
You asked about pressure ports.

Chrysler A727, A904 Pressure Ports

Line Pressure in ReverseIdle: 145-175 PSIStall: 230-280 PSILine Pressure in D21Idle: 54-60 PSIStall: 90-96 PSIGovernor pressure should be equal to road speed.

www.sonnax.com

 

[Plumber452]

A "soft" rebuild would be about $300. What is your time worth is the question.
You asked about pressure ports.

http://[URL]https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/250-chrysler-a727-a904-pressure-ports

[/URL]

Thanks!!! As for my time , fortunately I'm retired but still do a little consulting work . If I counted my time at $1.00/hr I've probably got $1,000,000,000.00 in this car. LOL!!!! I'm just a little concerned as to getting everything correct, putting it back in and finding out I left that one bolt, O-Ring, etc. out. Thanks again!!!!

 

[dvw]

Good point. What kind of pressures should I see? I can look it up but which opening is which as far as supply/return or in/out or does for pressure does it matter?

This will give you port location and pressures. Start with line pressure. In addition when testing line pressure. Disconnect the carb linkage and manually move it all the way back. Pressure should be 85-90psi. If it fails the line pressure test go no further. Check the filter. If it's good pull and inspect the valve body. I doubt that the forward clutch (rear location in the trans) failed at a stop light.
Doug

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[Plumber452]

This will give you port location and pressures. Start with line pressure. In addition when testing line pressure. Disconnect the carb linkage and manually move it all the way back. Pressure should be 85-90psi. If it fails the line pressure test go no further. Check the filter. If it's good pull and inspect the valve body. I doubt that the forward clutch (rear location in the trans) failed at a stop light.
Doug

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Thanks for the advice!!!!