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727 Shift rod seal R & R.

1967coronet

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Over the years my 727 has started leaking around the shift rod seal.
Only after it sets for 2 or 3 days and the converter drains back.
I am certain my dip stick tube is not leaking.
So my question is ....
Can that shift seal be removed then a new one installed with the C clamp and deep well socket from the outside ?
Seen a few write ups on that but didn't know if I should just grab a case of fluid and filter with gasket and drop the valve body to replace it.
It's not really time to service the trans but if that's the best way to swap that seal I will.

Thanks
 
Use a nut and bolt and large washers, it works great. Get it started straight by hand first.
 
Over the years my 727 has started leaking around the shift rod seal.
Only after it sets for 2 or 3 days and the converter drains back.
I am certain my dip stick tube is not leaking.
So my question is ....
Can that shift seal be removed then a new one installed with the C clamp and deep well socket from the outside ?
Seen a few write ups on that but didn't know if I should just grab a case of fluid and filter with gasket and drop the valve body to replace it.
It's not really time to service the trans but if that's the best way to swap that seal I will.

Thanks
You might me able to do it that way. My self I would just pull the pan and valve body to do it.
 
I've done quite a few using a socket without pulling the pan.It's a time saver if you don't have to service the trans.
 
Of course the factory made tools just for that procedure. They're out there somewhere? In lieu of no tools I would go the long route (using a 1/2" cap screw/nut and large flat washers to pull in the new seal) remove and replace the VB. I find that the long way is usually the best in the long run.
Mike
 
Drop the valve body. Might as well replace the KD shaft seal at the same time. one or both shafts probably have a little rust on them as well. Make sure the inner portion of the shift shaft seal doesn't flip upward when installing the valve body. I'd replace the tube seal and make sure the line adapters are tight. Check the rear band pivot shaft for leaks as well. Remember if you don't have time to do it right the first time, you can always do it twice.
Doug
 
Drop the valve body. Might as well replace the KD shaft seal at the same time. one or both shafts probably have a little rust on them as well. Make sure the inner portion of the shift shaft seal doesn't flip upward when installing the valve body. I'd replace the tube seal and make sure the line adapters are tight. Check the rear band pivot shaft for leaks as well. Remember if you don't have time to do it right the first time, you can always do it twice.
Doug
Thanks, I did also order a KD seal so I will have both along with gasket and filter.
Thanks for the tip on the lower side of the seal flipping up.
 
Thanks guys, I'm going to drop the pan.
Thanks for the advice.
 
Also check that the rear band anchor pin seal isn’t leaking at the back of the case. Clean it, dry it and a little dab of silicone will do the job. Even if it isn’t leaking it will after u do the other seals. Don’t forget to adjust the rear band while ur at it. Kim
 
Been a long time since I did one without dropping the pan and that was on a 72 Challenger with 40k miles on it. It leaked bad and wasn't all that hard to do.....but I was also a LOT younger back then!
 
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got a chance this weekend dropped the pan and valve body, replaced the seals used r413 bolt and washer idea , worked fine thanks guys.
20210612_153608.jpg
 
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