aussiewannabee69
Well-Known Member
Ok cool that is a relief. I have tried to contact them but haven’t heard back. Need there email. The contact form online never seems to get a response.
727 TCI Streetfighter question
- Thread starter aussiewannabee69
- Start date
I need to make one thing clear. The snap ring groove should be repaired so the bearing can't move axially
because when you do your final end play check, you set the transmission output shaft on a block of wood
with all of the weight of the unit pushing the output shaft forward. Then you use a dial indicator to measure
the end play on the input shaft! You only want to have 0.016 to 0.025 end play. If the buggered up snap
ring groove is sloppy, it will allow the bearing to slide more and you will have too much end play Their E-Mail address is : www.tsirace.com
because when you do your final end play check, you set the transmission output shaft on a block of wood
with all of the weight of the unit pushing the output shaft forward. Then you use a dial indicator to measure
the end play on the input shaft! You only want to have 0.016 to 0.025 end play. If the buggered up snap
ring groove is sloppy, it will allow the bearing to slide more and you will have too much end play Their E-Mail address is : www.tsirace.com
Watch the rear tail shaft bearing with the snap ring cover removed. It moves a ton. The endplay spec is .037-.084. That's a spec that just making sure nothing binds up. Not a precision number. Where do you get .016-.025. And what does it improve?
Doug
Please read the article with the link on the last post. Didn't stay at the beginning like I wanted!
Torqueflite automatic transmission: major components/ Allpar forums. Very interesting three
part article! Made me go "Wow".
Torqueflite automatic transmission: major components/ Allpar forums. Very interesting three
part article! Made me go "Wow".
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
The Allpar article made me say WOW too. Apparently written by an academic that had never built a HP 727. The discussion in this thread has confused me about what "end play" we are talking about. The Carl Monroe end play is clearly talking about the front drum end play. I think that may be a little tight. I set them a bit looser. I'm not a pro, but I've built many dozen 727's over the year for HP applications. I'd listen to what dvw has to say.
The article was written by a Mopar mechanic that knew what the narrow bearing and the .084 clearance would do to a 727!
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
OK
.
I guess all the 727s that run factory clearance have failed? I don't know how many 727s you've built. But I've been building hot rod/race 727s since the 80s. Close to 30 in the last year or so. I've had trouble with rings side wearing in one unit only. My own. And it ran tighter endplay and a wide drum bushing. I discussed this issue with some high end race trans builders. It was determined that the surface finish of the reaction shaft grooves needed to be smoother. We built a lapping fixture and lapped them. Been good ever since.
Doug
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
I'd listen to dvw. He seems to have done as many in the last year than I did since '73. I built all my own bracket 727's for 25 years and a number of customer 727's. No complaints.
I'm by no means an expert, but the book by Carl Munroe seems to make alot of sense to me. I'm a retired machinist and need something in black & white. I've also gotten some info from John Cope. Whatever works for you, just keep doing it!
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
I have not read Carl Munroe's book. Maybe I should. I used the FSM & DC pubs. Worked for me. The only 727's I have had not built by me are two 727's from John Cope. I've used his parts to build 3 727's for customers in the last few years. I'm very happy with his parts.
Because I don't have all the knowledge about all the tips and tricks in a 727, I have to
rely on the information that I can find from reliable sources. The key word is "Reliable".
Trying to sift through all of the bad info is a challenge. Alot of members here recommended
the Carl Monroe book and have heard of John Cope for years. His shop is about an hour
away, and when I needed parts and info, I had to meet him. Talked to him for about a
half hour and learned alot. Between the Carl Monroe book and John's advice, I feel very
confident in the info.
rely on the information that I can find from reliable sources. The key word is "Reliable".
Trying to sift through all of the bad info is a challenge. Alot of members here recommended
the Carl Monroe book and have heard of John Cope for years. His shop is about an hour
away, and when I needed parts and info, I had to meet him. Talked to him for about a
half hour and learned alot. Between the Carl Monroe book and John's advice, I feel very
confident in the info.
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
Well I just know what I know from building race and HP 727's for nearly 50 years. Numerous combinations of internal parts over the years. Mostly for my own drag cars. I know what has worked for me and all the customers I have had. I only had one failure, Just ran it too long & I think the valve body was getting worn. The clutches & band were scored. Used coarse paper to freshen them. Rebuilt it in the pits Saturday nite and went to the finals the next day. I would listen to dvw. Cope knows his stuff too.
I listen to everyone! I'm not done learning until they put me in the box. I try
to use the best info that I can get and move on to the next system. Hopefully
by sharing these ideas with other people on the forum, we are able to spare
them unwanted agrivation and spread knowledge that is becoming more scarce
as the years go by. Heck, Carl Munroe is no longer with us and all we have is
his book and reference material.
to use the best info that I can get and move on to the next system. Hopefully
by sharing these ideas with other people on the forum, we are able to spare
them unwanted agrivation and spread knowledge that is becoming more scarce
as the years go by. Heck, Carl Munroe is no longer with us and all we have is
his book and reference material.
aussiewannabee69
Well-Known Member
So I’ve removed the sprag to completely clean out the box. Anyone know what type/brand it is?
Was it just pressed into the case or was it bolt-in unit? If it was just pressed in with a
allen set screw holding it at the bottom it's probably stock. Clean it and inspect the rollers,
springs. and the outer race. If everything looks good, put it back. Note and take pictures
of the way the springs are installed. Remember, the springs always push the rollers uphill!
The inner race should only turn in one direction.
allen set screw holding it at the bottom it's probably stock. Clean it and inspect the rollers,
springs. and the outer race. If everything looks good, put it back. Note and take pictures
of the way the springs are installed. Remember, the springs always push the rollers uphill!
The inner race should only turn in one direction.
That is a generic bolt in sprag. It was originally developed to repair cases that were damaged. It uses stock rollers and springs. The only upgrade is a Super Sprag sold by A&A, Cope, ATI, ect. They are $200 US.
Doug
Doug
aussiewannabee69
Well-Known Member
Ah I think that will be good enough for what I’m doing. cheers.
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
Listen to dvw.
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