Thanks Sparky
73 Roadrunner 340 Auto
- Thread starter Builderguy
- Start date
Driver side, epoxy primed and then high build. Quarter and roof this weekend if work doesn't call.
cdoublejj
Well-Known Member
it's hard to count door clips and weld K members when your hung over from the weekend
I decided to clean up the factory lead filler where the rocker meets the quarter. Was just a little too rough.
BEORE
AFTER
BEORE
AFTER
Decided to work on the trunk lid rust damage instead of sanding and spraying the roof. Had a mask on all day at work and really didn't feel like wearing one any longer. I had already cut out most of the rust awhile back. It looked to be a lot of welding so I figured I would just replace the lid. Nope, could not find a lid close that was in any better shape than mine.
This is the start of the process. I cut a rough pattern so I can get the general shape and size. It is a little short but t I can add that on to the patch piece. I used metal this time because I wanted to know the exact angle . I will have to cut out some more rust holes but I want this part solid before losing anymore structure.s There is also a lip that still needs to get welded in so it will match the existing shape.
This is the start of the process. I cut a rough pattern so I can get the general shape and size. It is a little short but t I can add that on to the patch piece. I used metal this time because I wanted to know the exact angle . I will have to cut out some more rust holes but I want this part solid before losing anymore structure.s There is also a lip that still needs to get welded in so it will match the existing shape.
New piece is welded in and the lip is now stable. This now allows me to cut the rest of the rust out without loosing the shape. Second pic was to show that the two sides match but it is hard to see in the photo. Not sure on replacing this ridge, maybe bend in a "U" shape and then round it over a 3/4" steel rod. IDK The garage was warm and I had enough for the day.
Got the "U" shaped piece bent up, tacked in, welded up, and ground down. Still a little hammer work to make it match the lines as it should but not too bad for the first go-round. The rest of the rust should be a little easier but a little more time consuming. We are still having fun, right?
You're damn right you are: You are doing an awesome job at repairing metalwork and saving yourself thousands of dollars doing it!!!
Thanks hsorman, some days the metal just likes being worked.
Fixed the last of the rust so we are back to solid metal. This was a pain and I like welding but using a 4 1/2" grinder for for rough shaping sucks. The structure is solid so I can finish it with filler and glaze, probably just glaze as it it pretty close. Still need to attach the little 3/8" fold over but that is super easy. All these hours just for the inside of the trunk. The better half is starting to wonder about the decisions I make. Once the filler/glaze is done I can sand it all down, epoxy, and then high build. Then it is time for the last of the bodywork, the inside of the trunk (weather lip and the floor). It has been almost 6 months and I kinda want to get this thing painted already!!!! Would like to have it done for the Dream Cruise. I know, I know, it was been cancelled but I am still going along with some 29,999 of my friends!!!
Well it wasn't a 3/8" fold over, turns out it was 7/16". My is eye needs a calibration done, sucks to get old. Cut the strip, drilled some spot weld holes, clamped it in place, and welded it up. Ground it down and touched up the lower edge with the dremel. I can work with how this turned out. On to the inside of the trunk.
Started on the trunk floor. Thankfully it looked worse than it was. Three 36 grit flap discs later and we are down to solid metal, pitted, but solid. Looks like just a couple of spots to repair. I have an extra floor in a donor I have, so I can cut out the spot near the the two drain holes above and to the right of the sending unit hole.
This whole trunk thing is taking way too much time. ARRGGG Cut out the rust around the plug and replace it.
Still more to do for the trunk floor but I am getting some traction.
Still more to do for the trunk floor but I am getting some traction.
I appreciate you posting all these pictures of these fixes. My Buddy just bought a 1967 GTX and he and I are going to start tackling the bodywork fixes needed. Your build thread is a great confidence builder. I may not have your skills, but I am learning and not afraid to try.
Thanks for all the great pictures and nice job!
Hawk
Thanks for all the great pictures and nice job!
Hawk
Enough of the floor, on to the lid. Removed the old seam seal and sanded off the surface rust. Will spray with rust stop, epoxy, and re- seam seal. Then prime with high build.
idrivemopar
Well-Known Member
Amazing work, that's gonna be a sweet ride when you get her done!
Sanded the inside of the trunk lid with 80 grit (to smooth everything out) followed by 120 grit (that is what the tech sheet wanted). Wiped down and ready to spray. My epoxy primer has a 15 minute induction time so I had plenty of time to think about whether or not I mixed up enough.
Figures, this lid keeps fighting me. I was short about an ounce.
Mixed just a little more and let her rip. Only issue was I had to clean the gun between applications as this primer tends to start setting up in about 15 minutes which is also what the induction time is for the second batch. It will still spray out after 15 minutes sitting in the gun but it picks up a textured look.
Figures, this lid keeps fighting me. I was short about an ounce.
Mixed just a little more and let her rip. Only issue was I had to clean the gun between applications as this primer tends to start setting up in about 15 minutes which is also what the induction time is for the second batch. It will still spray out after 15 minutes sitting in the gun but it picks up a textured look.
I misspoke in post #115. I said that I would epoxy, re-seam seal, and then high build primer. It is actually epoxy, high build primer, sand down, and then re-seam seal. I don't want to sand the seam seal so it has to go on just prior to paint. Just a clarification. Anyway, here is the trunk in high build primer. There is one small spot that needs some glaze. Other than that I can flip it over and work on the top side.
Got the inside of the trunk cleaned up enough to put into epoxy. After spraying it there are still some small dimples in the metal. Those should go away with a few rounds of high build primer. The car wont be perfect but I will get it as close as I can with what I have. The car is not being done in huge shop with "lots of time, endless money, sweet paint booths, and massive amounts of talent". It is being done in a two stall garage with "little time, barely any money, plastic hanging down from the ceiling with a couple of fans for a paint booth, and questionable talent". Dogged persistence and ingenuity have to make up the difference.
If you have questionable talent then you have one hell of a lot of persistence and ingenuity.
Nice job!
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