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73 roadrunner purchase this weekend help me out guys.

I said the same thing about the quarter apparently its a reflection that makes it look off but I'll find out when I see it. Apparently he doesn't even drive it in the rain so I'm thinking six definitely isn't gonna happen And I've pretty much already ruled the charger out just like roadrunners more. I have some under car shots he sent which I'll post.
 

Is it just me or does the drivers side rear quarter look off?! :eusa_think:
roadrunner_left_quarter.jpg

Maybe is the way the shadows are hitting it?


I was thinking the same thing, especially as I've owned a 73 that had that class-typical weakening of the sheet metal on the drivers QP, but looking at the picture closely you can see reflections of buildings, a hill, and clouds, and those seem to be what's making the quarter look distorted.
 
Shadows and lighting can change a look on the cars and the quarter does look suspicious, but the fender does to if you look at it. A quick up close look would tell.
 
I had two 73's, one Satellite, one a Runner( make sure the VIN is RM-all Runners are RM, check the fender tag as well). Both 318 cars. Don't let that detour you-318's are great motors and can be built to run like a big block WITHOUT the added weight. Check the rear wheel well openings good- lower quarters to the bumpers, and all the way forward to the rockers along the bottom is prone to rusting. Dog legs of the front fenders, and of course the lower door edges inside. Trunk floor and extensions. All typical Mopar rust out points. Check the inside of the rear bumper-if this bumper hasn't been redone that will indicate what kind of rust issues "could" be present, this area is often overlooked. Frame everywhere-especially around the torsion bars-poke at the floors from underneath in the footwell areas make sure they are solid-unless you can peel the carpet back(which is unlikely). Firewall above the trans. tunnel- below the wiper motor-there is a flap(*see pic), this is where water is released that enters along the lower windshield. If you can get your hand back there without scratching paint-check under that flap!! Make sure it is not clogged with debris, otherwise the lower cowl(*see big circled part in pic) will rot out-from standing water. Looks like a nice car. Have cash in pocket-start low and work your way up- I wouldn't go more than $7000-if all those areas on the body check out. Good Luck!
 

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If the body is solid then it very well is worth it. I may sometimes over value an initial purchase but I try to factor in potential body work. My rule of thumb has become if the interior is trashed, the motor shot, who cares as long as the body is solid. Unless you are a body shop or have close ties to one you'll be out some serious coin to replace quarters etc.

Most folks don't view the 73-74 favorably/ valuable. Drive it and find a new drivetrain etc.
 
few pics of the underside

He sent me a few pics of the underside he said he put the new exhaust about 4 years ago
 

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Looks like it's been repainted, which can be a little scary.
(they painted the seat nut and stud)
Looks like they didn't get all the original undercoating off- at least it looks like it had undercoating.
Those particular areas look solid.
Look CLOSELY at the frame where the ISO mounts for the K frame are.
Can't stress that enough.
Good call on the firewall flap.

For 9K, I'd take it through a car wash and check for cowl leaks, if you can't get your hand down in there.
A rusted cowl (very typical) will turn your 9K car into a 12K car REAL fast.
 
Yes it was repainted when redone 15 years ago i thought i wrote that in the original post maybe i missed it also he said he had it re undercoated around that time as well. I think I forgot new tires new brakes all around new u joints and the flow master 2.5 in dual exhaust which he said was around 3 years old but looks newer than that to me it doesn't even have surface rust on it and he said he replaced the original valve cover gaskets recently as well since they were starting to leak a little. I hope the body is in great shape so it makes it a no brainer we'll see I guess.
 
4 more pics

I had 4 more pics 2 engine bays and 2 truck pics but can only get the trunks to load right now will try the bay pics again tomorrow . Also the owner told me it is factory ac which he had converted to 134a last year and blows ice cold also factory hood pins and factory front and rear sway bar though I'm not sure if they all had that or if it was an option.
 

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the 73 charger at 9K.. LOL.. no fricken way!!!! 3.5-4K is more like it.. and that son of a gun better not have a lot of rust on it for that price..

RR.. 6.5K if rust is at a minimum.
 
I'm wondering if the supply and demand for these cars is different up here in the north east than it is where most of you guys are from. I've been researching for several months in auto traders and craigslist and pretty much any media you can use to find old cars and prices are just as high everywhere up here. It's kinda crazy people are selling parts cars for 3 or 4 grand and I'm talking junkers. Five grand for cars with obvious rust holes in the panels and need new sheet metal its just crazy I just assumed that was the market
 
I'm wondering if the supply and demand for these cars is different up here in the north east than it is where most of you guys are from. I've been researching for several months in auto traders and craigslist and pretty much any media you can use to find old cars and prices are just as high everywhere up here. It's kinda crazy people are selling parts cars for 3 or 4 grand and I'm talking junkers. Five grand for cars with obvious rust holes in the panels and need new sheet metal its just crazy I just assumed that was the market

I have not seen these cars listed as cheap as some on the board seem to think theyre worth down here either.
 
Lol I'm going to see the car tomorrow morning with cash in hand and I'm nervous about bidding him too low and insulting him I guess we'll find out
 
i can tell you right now that a 318 anything car from 71 and up will not pull that money here in kansas... so i would say yes, but its not supply thing, as we have alot of old mopes around too.. it is just you all are in urban areas and everyone thinks their **** costs more because of that. call it urban inflation brought on by the "i am out to get all that i can and screw you" mentality.

we got some of those morons here too, we just dont buy from them, but city folks do.

call me a country bumpkin.. but i will never make an impulse buy on a mopar for more than 5000 knowing i can find one for less than that if I just wait. but then again, i am not mopar poor and dont need anymore.. so because of that i guess i should not have replied in this thread in the first place since my reply will instantaneously be biased to spending less.
 
I'm wondering if the supply and demand for these cars is different up here in the north east than it is where most of you guys are from. I've been researching for several months in auto traders and craigslist and pretty much any media you can use to find old cars and prices are just as high everywhere up here. It's kinda crazy people are selling parts cars for 3 or 4 grand and I'm talking junkers. Five grand for cars with obvious rust holes in the panels and need new sheet metal its just crazy I just assumed that was the market

I think where your at and all of us in the snow belt areas that its the idea we live in a area that the salt eats up cars, harder to find, then the big "Mopar" thing where everyone thinks there made of gold, parts and all. Its hard to find a survivor up here in the snow belt areas and when they do they take advantage of that.. I do wish you luck with whatever you have in mind... I think i would tell him that you have his in mind but do have other options, ask him what his bottom dollar period price is and then go from there, If he wants to sell this car, he will do some thinking if you have that doughtful look about you.. Just a thought! Good luck again.
 
Well I'm getting ready for the long trip to see the roadrunner very excited and a little nervous hoping the car is everything its current owner has made it out to be. At the very least it will be an educational experience checking all these spots for corrosion that I learned about on this great forum. Thankyou everyone for all you help.
 
Up early, huh?

Good luck.

Hope it's as solid as it looks and hope you get a good deal if you decide to buy it.
 
I'd take the road runner over the Charger. It's more original. Those gawd awful seats and column shift kill the Charger for me. Get the road runner, and do a big block swap(but save the original stuff). I agree with the others on the $6k figure. But....there are others out there if this one doesn't pan out.
 
Hmmm, the listing says clone, but gives the VIN as RM21G- that's a 318 Roadrunner VIN.

Ebay car is FE5 resale red.

OP's prospect is BIW (body in) white plain (but I like white Mopars).

Looking at the ebay car, they really didn't do a very good job prepping the inner fender around the tag.
... and the steering wheel looks like it's been painted.
Trunk's the wrong color, too.

I think that seller is famous for slightly overpriced classics.
We have a couple of those places down here.
 
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