8-3/4 brake line clips broken- ideas on substitute?

[Coledavis01]

The mounting tabs that are welded to the axle housing on my Super Bee are long gone and have had the housing powdercoated. Yes, would have been ideal to replace these prior yet not positive the guy didn't blast them into oblivion as seems uncharacteristic of me to have not repaired them before taking in.

Anyway, has anyone come up with a solution that doesn't involve grinding the old off and welding replacements?

Prefer not have to grind off the coating if possible so thought was maybe some type of clamp exists that would wrap around the axle housing and be able to clip them that way. I am aware the passenger side swaybar mount isn't level in the pic- fixed it after noticed it in the photo.

Thanks for the help!

 

[493 Mike]

You could loosen up a U-bolt on each side and slip a loop of sheet metal under the U-bolt for retention. They make nice billet aluminum 2 piece clamps for brake line tubing too. That would require drilling and tapping threads into the housing though. The brass Y-block would support the center area.
Mike

 

[dadsbee]

Make your clips, paint them and a dab of panel bond.

 

[Coledavis01]

Make your clips, paint them and a dab of panel bond.

Rookie question, do you know if panel bond will stick to a coated surface?

 

[dadsbee]

Rookie question, do you know if panel bond will stick to a coated surface?

No idea.. but also no reason you can't use a dremel and grind a bare spot that the bond and clip will cover/seal anyhow.

 

[Coledavis01]

No idea.. but also no reason you can't use a dremel and grind a bare spot that the bond and clip will cover/seal anyhow.

Good point- found some Moser plastic axle brake line clamps though for $15 each for a plastic clamp can fashion something out of scrap sheet metal much cheaper. the base area of the tabs are still there so gives me something to work with at least.

 

[WileERobby]

Make your clips, paint them and a dab of panel bond.

Rookie question, do you know if panel bond will stick to a coated surface?

Excellent suggestion. I would grind a spot on the housing and on the mating surface of the clip. then, attach the clip with panelbond.

 

[R413]

Sold here, epoxy is your friend.

Rear Axle Brake Line/Cable Clip Set, Rear Axle Brake Lines A-Body, 199-DR033 Reproduction, NOS and Used Mopar Muscle Car Parts

 

[Coledavis01]

You could loosen up a U-bolt on each side and slip a loop of sheet metal under the U-bolt for retention. They make nice billet aluminum 2 piece clamps for brake line tubing too. That would require drilling and tapping threads into the housing though. The brass Y-block would support the center area.
Mike

Thanks Mike, I see what you mean though really hesitant to tap anything into the housing.

 

[Cranky]

Good point- found some Moser plastic axle brake line clamps though for $15 each for a plastic clamp can fashion something out of scrap sheet metal much cheaper. the base area of the tabs are still there so gives me something to work with at least.

Plastic clamps? I'd zip tie them before doing that. Doing the home made clamps with the panel bond sounds like a good idea but.....black zip ties......just depends on what the car is going to be. Mine would probably go that route lol

 

[Coledavis01]

Plastic clamps? I'd zip tie them before doing that. Doing the home made clamps with the panel bond sounds like a good idea but.....black zip ties......just depends on what the car is going to be. Mine would probably go that route lol

yeah, that's what I thought as well! Do like the panel bond idea as no worry of overheating it welding on new ones or screwing up the powdercoating/ surrounding area. Planning on a solid driver out of it so while will never win a prize for being factory correct, hope to eliminate as many little odds and ends ahead of time that may give me trouble later. With an old car don't believe that's a realistic goal but I'm giving it a go haha

 

[Cranky]

yeah, that's what I thought as well! Do like the panel bond idea as no worry of overheating it welding on new ones or screwing up the powdercoating/ surrounding area. Planning on a solid driver out of it so while will never win a prize for being factory correct, hope to eliminate as many little odds and ends ahead of time that may give me trouble later. With an old car don't believe that's a realistic goal but I'm giving it a go haha

Used to drive my 66 Belvedere all over the place in the 90's and never had any issues with it. That was a long time ago but still, it wasn't a spring chicken in 98 when I tore it apart for rebuilding. I have 3 pickups today that are mid 90's vehicles and they are still kicking well and the AC still works on all 3 and so did the AC on the 66 when it was put 'in the barn'.