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8 & 3/4 rear end?

Lowhound

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I'm in the process of pre-assembling a few things on my 70 Bee while I'm waiting on my painter to get time for it. While I was assembling the 8 &3/4 rear end I ran into a problem. Everything was going well. Axles installed, brakes, limited slip unit, 355 gears all went perfect. The problem; I ordered pre-bent brake lines for the entire car. All the lines have a sticker saying Mopar B body 68-70 on them. The length across is perfect from drum to drum. But both lines end over 6 inches from the brass separator which is held in place by the breather tube on the pumpkin. And yes they are way too far to re-bend to make work. My question is; Was this separator for the brake lines in the same place on all Mopar rear ends or do I need to check into sending my brake lines back to where I purchased them? I bought them over 2 years ago while buying up parts so there could be a problem on returning them.
 
Just off the top of my head...

Deleted my first thoughts. Think there's a hose line connected at the body hard line, going to the tee fitting.

Re-read your post. Maybe only one hose line. Wonder if your lines are for a 'A' body?

Just to clarify, are both axle lines short 6" of the tee, or ending at a different location than your tee's location?
 
He said length from drum to drum was ok, they just met approx 6" from the TEE, which is why he was asking if that junction could have been placed differently.
Sorry, I'm no help on the info though.
 
A pic would help.
 
They're different depending on the year. The vent on my '64 was in a slightly different place than on the '68 rear I swapped in. The '68 rear is narrower, too. I think the '68-'70 rears are the same, though. Maybe you got lines that were mislabled?
 
He said length from drum to drum was ok, they just met approx 6" from the TEE, which is why he was asking if that junction could have been placed differently.
Sorry, I'm no help on the info though.
Yes this is correct. Where both lines are supposed to connect to the separator is about 6 inches from where the separator is mounted on the axle housing. I purchased stainless brake lines also. They are too far off to try and re-bend and them still look rite. I do have an idea I want to run across you guys though. Would it be possible to drill myself a new hole location for the separator and tap it in a better location, then just plug the existing hole with a plug. Of coarse I would need to pull the axles & possibly the pumkin back out so I could remove any metal shavings from drilling a new hole. OPINIONS????
 
I think I would contact the supplier first to see if they will help you out. Hopefully you still have proof of purchase?
 
Yes this is correct. Where both lines are supposed to connect to the separator is about 6 inches from where the separator is mounted on the axle housing. I purchased stainless brake lines also. They are too far off to try and re-bend and them still look rite. I do have an idea I want to run across you guys though. Would it be possible to drill myself a new hole location for the separator and tap it in a better location, then just plug the existing hole with a plug. Of coarse I would need to pull the axles & possibly the pumkin back out so I could remove any metal shavings from drilling a new hole. OPINIONS????
Yeah you can do that but I'd confirm that your splitter is in the right place. Measure the distance from the backing plate to it and post the numbers. If I get a chance before the end of the day, I'll check a couple housings that I have.....
 
Or you can weld a nut on outside of housing just for the replacement brake lines, keeping orginal vent location. Better to swap brake lines for correct, but this could work.
 
If you talk to Fine Lines they will tell you that the splitter was located in different spots some on the horizontal part of the axle tube and some on the upward slant for the pumpkin housing.
 
Yes they came from Fine Lines about 2 and 1/2 years ago. I guess I shouldn't have bought & stashed parts ahead of time. I will probably run into more problems with other parts I bought early. I may try the welding a nut deal. It just pisses me off that I have already painted the housing & with some expensive paint. I didn't think there would be this kind of a problem because the original lines fit perfect. I just don't understand how they can sell pre-bent lines if the factory used different locations for the vent line. I just hope the rest of the brake lines fit the rest of the car now.
 
I do have an idea I want to run across you guys though. Would it be possible to drill myself a new hole location for the separator and tap it in a better location, then just plug the existing hole with a plug. Of coarse I would need to pull the axles & possibly the pumkin back out so I could remove any metal shavings from drilling a new hole. OPINIONS????

You could certainly drill a new hole, but personally, I think that will be more work and hassle, with more risk to screw up the rear with metal shavings. If it were me, I would get the brake lines correct rather than drilling another hole in the axle.

Just my $0.02...
 
If you've put your time and money (paint) into your rear housing, I wouldn't mess with it, as far as welding on it, or poking another hole in it. Why should you!
The correct lines should be available, even from Fine Lines. Get back with them, and let THEM make it right. Guessing you probably paid a pretty good price for 'em.

I made all my lines myself...but I'm working on a mix/match deal. Your's is strictly stock.
 
Or you can weld a nut on outside of housing just for the replacement brake lines, keeping orginal vent location. Better to swap brake lines for correct, but this could work.
What I was thinking but welding a stud. No tapping or drilling or dissassembly.
 
I say a pic would help us, help you!!!
 
07-23-2012 rear end perches tacked2.jpg
 
If you talk to Fine Lines they will tell you that the splitter was located in different spots some on the horizontal part of the axle tube and some on the upward slant for the pumpkin housing.
I have never seen a vent/splitter located on the upward slant of the housing and I've been doing rear work for a pretty long time.....not saying it never happened but just I've never seen it.

Correction edit. I have two 8 3/4's and both do have the vent/splitter on the area that starts to go upwards on the banjo area. It's been a few years since doing any 8 3/4 rears and the last several were Dana 60's and they are on the tube but are a few inches away from the center section. They may have sent you lines for a Dana 60???
 
CAM00681.jpg Here it is fellows, I finally got you all a picture. I just cant figure out how to rotate it correctly

- - - Updated - - -

I have an idea I may try tomorrow. If I get it done then I'll post a picture of it for your opinions. If it was just a little closer I could re-bend the lines to work, but they are too far off.
 
Hey, I just took a quick picture of my axle that I am restoring. For reference, it is a 8 3/4 out of 70 Road Runner. It is a 3.55 sure grip.

I very quickly laid the parts out to see if they would fit, and they look like they will be fine. See picture below - the measuring tape is from the passenger brake backing plate. The temporary bolt I have in the axle is at about 16.5 inches and mostly hidden by the red cap. I also took a picture of the Right Stuff part number that the brake lines came from.

Hope this helps...

Hawk

IMG_2412.jpg

IMG_2413.jpg
 
Thanks for the pic horsman for reference. I'm putting this rear end in a 70 Superbee but I personally took it out of a 69 Road runner years ago. They should be the same shouldn't they? However I haven't actually measured as of yet but the hole in my axle housing for the separator & breather are approx. only about 4-5 inches from the pumpkin itself. I have an idea I plan on trying when I get time that may be an easy fix. I just hope it doesn't look rigged up. Oh well its worth a try and it wont hurt anything, just take a little time.
 
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