A variety of electrical messes

[trumpetcharger]

Greetings everyone!

I'm in the process of dealing with some major electrical issues on my 1969 Charger. First, a little background:

I bought the car about 7 years ago as a restoration project. It was almost completely rusted out, held together with Bondo, tin, wire, and various other things. It has come a long ways, but there is still ground to be covered.

This last weekend, I decided it was time to replace the coil; the old one looked as though it was leaking fluid, and I've been having major power issues with the car (a story for another day). Figuring a new coil couldn't hurt, I went to my local parts store and bought an MTD Blaster Coil.

With this coil, MTD requires an 0.8 ohm coil resistor be used. I bought it, and it looks strikingly similar to the ballast resistor that is already mounted on the firewall. My question is: Does the 0.8 ohm coil resistor *replace* the ballast resistor, or is it to be used in *addition* to the ballast resistor?

A second question: I have been having voltage issues for quite some time, so I decided to replace the voltage regulator as well to see if this would help things.

I've attached a pic of my old regulator along with the new one. On the old one, you may be able to see "IGN" stamped on the left side, and "FLD" on the right. You likely won't be able to make it out on the new one, but "FLD" is now on the left side, and "IGN" on the right, but the connectors/terminals didn't adjust. Whereas there used to be a clip to the "FLD" side and a screw connection to the "IGN", the opposite is now true. That is what is confuses me. Has anyone run into this issue with regulators? I actually returned the first one I bought, as I thought something was wrong...but when the second one I picked up seemed to have the same problem, I thought I'd check with you guys to see what you thought. I have a brand new wiring harness in the engine, so having to cut or alter the wires seems wrong.

Finally, last question. Gas guage. Had it rebuilt & tested awhile back and it worked fine. Then I had a new gas tank installed, and it quit working properly...you can have a full tank and it'll only read between 1/2 to 1/4 of a tank. The tank's ground strap is still there...I took it off and cleaned the connections to ensure it is good and grounded. I also replaced the dash voltage regulator...still no luck. Any clues?

Thank you so much for all your help! I'm not really up to speed on electronics, and I really value any help and information I can get.

Pete

 

[scotts74birds]

Re; ballast, The factory had a 1.5-1.9ohm resistor. Always match the resistor to the coil! Re; the gas gauge. Does this help? http://www.moparfins.com/Repairs/Fuel_Gauge_Repair/Fuel_Gauge_Repair.htm

 

[trumpetcharger]

Thank you!!! That gas gauge deal will come in very handy...will experiment a little tomorrow.

And yeah, I thought matching the coil to its matching resistor would be the wisest deal too.

Thank you again!

 

[scotts74birds]

Its all about helping. Everybody brings something to the table. Keep us posted!

 

[trumpetcharger]

Well, here's what I have replaced on my car in the last 2 weeks:

1. Coil
2. Ballast Resistor (matches coil)
3. Voltage Regulator (engine bay)
4. Engine Ground Strap
5. Cluster Voltage Regulator
6. Ground Strap from Fuel Sender to Fuel Line

I tested the fuel sending wire at the sending unit as well as the driver's side kick-panel connection and am getting the correct reading in Ohms. I grounded out the line from the same location...grounded out the line going *to* the gauge, and it said the tank was full. I would assume that means the gauge is working properly electrical-wise.

However, the following problems remain:

Electrical:

-The fuel gauge reads about 1/8 - 1/4 of a tank...always.
-The clock runs perfectly when the battery is connected and the car is off. However, once the car is started, it freezes up completely, though the tach still works.

Maybe electrical:

- When driving, the ammeter reads +5 to +10. If you idle, it will drop down to normal, unless you have any accessories (lights, turn signals, etc) going. Then it will dip as low as -20. If you keep engine speed up, it will compensate a little. A week ago I removed the alternator & had it tested; it passed with flying colors.

-The car overheats a LOT when it is warmer out. If I sit at an intersection for more than a couple minutes, the gauge will peg in the "hot" zone. I never have had any sort of a coolant leak/boil over that I am aware of. Tonight I drove for 20 minutes and the temp was perfectly in the normal zone (it is cool out here). I got the car home, shut it off for 5 minutes, and turned the key on...and it was pegged in "hot" and refused to start for another 20 minutes.

Any wisdom? I'm about ready to scream.

THANK YOU!!!!

Pete

 

[trumpetcharger]

cut wires too

As I was rooting around under the dash, I noticed a couple of wires that have been cut...long before I got the car. Don't know if they're related to my electrical issues (could something be improperly grounded??). I have no idea where these would go. You're looking at the steering column here:




Any clues?

 

[Meep-Meep]

That is the normal location for the steering column ground wire. The other end goes to somewhere under the dash like the pedal bracket or something.

Did you check the bulkhead connector? The first thing I do with old MoPars is remove the bulkhead plugs and clean every terminal. You need to remove the layer of oxide so scraping with an Exacto knife and re squeezing the connectors is a good way to accomplish this.

 

[trumpetcharger]

I will check that this weekend and report back...thank you!

 

[Propwash]

A few ideas for electrical/fuel....

Fuel sending unit malfunctioning.....Float arm bent/stuck........ Guages do kick the bucket every blue moon or so.

Make sure you have good body to VR ground via bolts/holes....I replaced the mechanical VR in my Coronet with an upgraded electrical unit, amp drop at idle disappeared.

Clock..Sounds like a short. Maybe a ground issue...Check power/ground at wires when on/off. Should get your answer from there

Overheating...Could be several things.

Timing-too far retard could be leaning out your engine...
Carb set lean?
Thermostat good?
Vacuum leaks can lean out an engine
Intake crossovers open blocked?
Radiator...Good condition? Flow check it lately?
Fan shrowd installed? Proper fan?
Water pump working correctly?
Heater core plugged....mess up the flow to/from.
Air bubbles coming up in antifreeze when lookin in radiator with cap off-oily residue? usually a good sign of a bad head gasket.
Hoses in good condition? old/worn ones can collapse under vacuum pressure.
Kind of sounds like a vapor lock issue.........Try blocking the cross over and installing a carb spacer so your bowls aren't taking so much heat..
Could be a combination of some or all of these..

Troubleshoot......Troubleshoot....Troubleshoot

Good Luck

 

[trumpetcharger]

Thanks Prop! Just so you know:

Fuel:

-Replaced the fuel sender (twice)...it's sending out the right reading via ohms.
-Fuel tank grounded
-Sending unit grounded (both grounds checked, cleaned with steel wool & lightly lubed)
-Brand new calibrated gauge

After what you said about overheating, I am betting the overheating is a combination of things...the carb (750 Edelbrock) is definitely leaking and whistles. I know I need to replace it. The timing is definitely off, as it's backfiring thru the carb as of late. You can floor it at a standstill and the thing takes off like a Pinto on 3 cylinders (I have a 383 in there). The tranny & rear end was just rebuilt, so I know they are solid.

The thermostat & radiator are both new, as are the hoses going to the heater.

I guess it's now a matter of finding the cash to get a new carb. I need to find someone to get it dialed-in timing wise. I've never attempted that before and not sure it's something I'd trust myself to do.

Thanks again all for your help!! I'll see what happens.

Pete

 

[Propwash]

No problem Pete........I'm interested to see how that fuel gauge pans out for ya. Sounds like you covered most bases. Did you check/follow the wire all the way back to the gauage?

To roughly dial your timing in...again roughly..

First I would check your timing via timing light...It's pretty easy to do. Hook up power to the timing light via alligator clips to battery. Latch over amp clamp from light over #1 spark plug wire.....Start car..

Point down at harmonic balancer and degree dial that tabs out just above it. I don't know the factory timing for your 383 off the top of my head. I'm sure someone here probably knows, but it can change depending if certain components have been upgraded/changed.

You can loosen up the bolt for the distributer hold down plate..and give a very small movements one way or another and see how the car reacts in either direction..

 

[WileERobby]

I noticed your location - what is your altitude. What do your plugs look like ? Are you running lean ?

 

[moparbee]

sorry i think im putting this as an answer .trying to figure out how to ask a question. i have a 69 superbee 383hp sounds like its running fine at idle or rev.as soon as i put it in gear wont keep running without feathering gas..and i just replaced my alt for a chrome one old one had one place for plug stud for wires..new one has two places for plugs.now when i pull cable car dies. where is that other plug connect..just changed over to electron egn..driving me insane.need a mopar bro in mi. any help would make my day please b cool to b able to talk to someone in mi. srounded by chevys ppl
thanks [email protected]

 

[trumpetcharger]

Tried to find a friend with a timing light today, but no luck...can't afford to shell out $200 for one right now. I might just have to mothball the car until spring or until I can find one to use. Was hoping my local O'Reilly's Auto Parts would include timing lights in there tool rental program, but no dice.

I checked the plugs today too..they are pretty carbon-y. They don't have 100 miles on them since installed, either.

I'm at 6,000 feet here in Colorado.

Here's a dumb question...but please bear with me, as I am *really* new to all of this. The carb needs replacing. It's shot. Am looking at a 750 Edelbrock or something similar. I'm also thinking the distributor might need replacing. Is it worth getting the thing timed before I install these things, or should I wait until I have the new parts? I'm thinking of waiting, especially considering the distributor so integral.

The wires going from the positive terminal on the battery to the starter relay look pretty well worn, as does the bottom bulkhead harness connection...I believe those are the lights, etc. Any good sources for replacement parts? Note: I *did* replace the center bulkhead harness awhile back. The top one (wipers) seems to work fine.

This is such a learning experience; there's hardly been a thing that hasn't been repaired or replaced on this car. Thanks for your help, guys. I'm really learning a lot here!!

Pete

 

[WileERobby]

May I suggest before you start throwing parts at the car, do some basics. The battery,cables & connections all need to be good. Sounds like you may need a new pos cable, I would do that first. Make sure you got 14v at battery & alt. The middle harness is the engine you did already,make sure all connections are clean & proper. Harnesses are available from Year One. Edelbrock 750 Performer carb is a good choice. How's vacuum ? Check it. And you can get a timing light for $40.

 

[trumpetcharger]

You know Robby, I was thinking the same thing about the positive cable. Pretty sure it's the original & I know it's sort of ratty.

I checked the battery a week or two ago..am getting a little over 12V there with the old cable. Didn't check the alt, but will this weekend.

Vacuum is definitely bad, as the current 750 Edelbrock in there (which came with the car) squeals & screams like crazy upon acceleration (definitely not the fan belt). That's why I want to get a new one in there; a mechanic's shop that I took it to awhile back said that the current one is really toast & not worth attempting to fix.

Dumb question...but should I consider replacing the starter relay as well? It is working fine as far as I can tell, but if that could possibly be a factor in my problems, I'll replace it.

Don't know why I thought those timing lights were so much....after I wrote that the other day, I saw them online at Amazon for around the price you quoted. I feel like a bonehead!

Pete