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Advice needed.

Blackheart

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I have my steering box out ('63 Sport Fury with a Poly) and my exhaust manifolds off. I have a Borgeson steering box to install and newly ceramic coated headers to install, which should I put on first?? Sure don't want to scratch my headers.

Headers newly coated.jpg
 
Tough call as every header fits different. Myself I would hang the headers off the heads loosely so they move. Lay a blanket over them and try to fit the box. Once the box is in place you should be able to lower the motor and then tighten the headers.
 
I have my steering box out ('63 Sport Fury with a Poly) and my exhaust manifolds off. I have a Borgeson steering box to install and newly ceramic coated headers to install, which should I put on first?? Sure don't want to scratch my headers.

View attachment 1510906
Put your box on first, you may not be able to tighten the bolts with the headers on. And you just got to be careful with the headers. And after you take all that care to not scratch them, if your luck is like mine in a years time they will have discolored and started to rust.
 
Tough call as every header fits different. Myself I would hang the headers off the heads loosely so they move. Lay a blanket over them and try to fit the box. Once the box is in place you should be able to lower the motor and then tighten the headers.
I have not jacked the engine up?? I pulled the torsion bar to get the box out through the bottom. Will I need to to get the headers on?
 
I have not jacked the engine up?? I pulled the torsion bar to get the box out through the bottom. Will I need to to get the headers on?
Like I said hang them so they can swing. Protect them and see if the box will slide in. If it does and you can bolt it you should be good. Anytime you try to squeeze the headers in you stand a good chance of damaging them. Putting them in first will prevent that.
 
And what are the chances the headers are going to fit perfect and clear everything ?????
Think the steering box would bolt in first and then lift the engine up some to try to mount the headers then curse when they touch the steering box and you have to dent them for clearance
 
And what are the chances the headers are going to fit perfect and clear everything ?????
Think the steering box would bolt in first and then lift the engine up some to try to mount the headers then curse when they touch the steering box and you have to dent them for clearance
He has the torsion bar out so he should not need to raise the engine. The gear box should just slide into place with the header loose.
 
I was more saying if the header will really fit
I just helped a friend put his 440 back in his 69 B body
Engine was sitting on the K frame on the floor and he was putting headers on it that were also ceramic coated
He had to dent them in to clear the factory power steering box and then when we put the starter on he had to dent them in to clear that
Think the driver side header was off 6 times before everything was fitting and that was when it was out on the floor
I can only imagine the fun trying to do that beside a frame rail also

Hope there is a little more room to work with the older car
 
I was more saying if the header will really fit
I just helped a friend put his 440 back in his 69 B body
Engine was sitting on the K frame on the floor and he was putting headers on it that were also ceramic coated
He had to dent them in to clear the factory power steering box and then when we put the starter on he had to dent them in to clear that
Think the driver side header was off 6 times before everything was fitting and that was when it was out on the floor
I can only imagine the fun trying to do that beside a frame rail also

Hope there is a little more room to work with the older car
He wont know till he tries. I know all to well on fitment with my supposed fit, high buck, coated Hemi TTI'S.
 
Likely older info, but when I was exploring headers for my ’63, had found finding ones that fit were hard to come by. TTI was one of about nothing other I could locate so forked out for those. It’s TIGHT, not too long after the install with rebuilt motor, started hearing what sounded like a tuning fork when moving the wheel after a long ride. The cross link was playing the violin on the left header, pitman zerk sheared off marring the T-bar. A new pitman solved the problem but the clearance is really tight, less than around ¼”. Could be the box needed shimming (FFII), but couldn’t detect if it might have been. Maybe today there are more options; but little room for error.
 
Pretty sure the real issue will be the steering box not in a factory location.
 
A tip for this, or any header install, tape thin bubble wrap around the tubes.
I got the passenger side header on today, I did have to jack up the engine and take the oil filter off, both torsion bars are slid back. I broke a stud off on that side on Thursday and fought getting it out all day yesterday. I welded and broke off 3 nuts on the stud. Today I heated it with two heat cycles, sprayed PB Blaster on it for about the tenth time after the first heating. It was suggested on another site for Poly engines that I put candle wax on the stud after heat so I did. I'm not sure how the wax is supposed to defy the laws of gravity and flow up, but I had nothing to lose. Yesterday I went to NAPA to buy a stud extractor, they wanted $60 for it so I left and found one at O'Reillys for $20 and low and behold it worked!!! Those underneath middle two header bolts are a bitch to get to to tighten; TTI headers on a Poly 318.
 
I got the passenger side header on today, I did have to jack up the engine and take the oil filter off, both torsion bars are slid back. I broke a stud off on that side on Thursday and fought getting it out all day yesterday. I welded and broke off 3 nuts on the stud. Today I heated it with two heat cycles, sprayed PB Blaster on it for about the tenth time after the first heating. It was suggested on another site for Poly engines that I put candle wax on the stud after heat so I did. I'm not sure how the wax is supposed to defy the laws of gravity and flow up, but I had nothing to lose. Yesterday I went to NAPA to buy a stud extractor, they wanted $60 for it so I left and found one at O'Reillys for $20 and low and behold it worked!!! Those underneath middle two header bolts are a bitch to get to to tighten; TTI headers on a Poly 318.
Of all the header installs I did, never one on a poly. I guess I should be grateful ?
 
Well at least you started on the easy side first :)
If that side was the easy side I may shoot myself, took me 8 hours to get the passenger side on. I had 7 bolts started Sunday night and dropped the 8th which was the underneath next to the rear hole. The bolt fell down between the tubes and I couldn't get it out. Monday morning after a trip to Harbor Freight buying some things I needed I made a tool out of the two I bought and got the bolt out. From noon yesterday, breaking only to eat I finally got all 8 in and tight. The issue was that I couldn't get that one bolt to thread in with my fingers, using a wrench the bolt wouldn't thread easy feeling like it wanted to cross thread. So a took the header off 3 times running a tap in the hole and running bolts in the holes to chase the threads cleaning the hole each time. By 8 last night I took a break to eat and my hands were shaking I was so pissed, I drank a beer and calmed down bit and went back to the shop looking at the header on the floor. I had Jet Hot coat these headers so I ran a drill in that hole and touched the opening up a bit and tried it again. That time the bolt grabbed the threads and I could turn it by hand until I felt confident using a wrench to run it up tight, I finished getting all 8 tight by 9:30 PM, and then sat there contemplating how in the hell it took me so long do do what I just did.

So if the other side is harder either the car or me is going to get shot!!

Poly with header.jpg
 
If that side was the easy side I may shoot myself, took me 8 hours to get the passenger side on. I had 7 bolts started Sunday night and dropped the 8th which was the underneath next to the rear hole. The bolt fell down between the tubes and I couldn't get it out. Monday morning after a trip to Harbor Freight buying some things I needed I made a tool out of the two I bought and got the bolt out. From noon yesterday, breaking only to eat I finally got all 8 in and tight. The issue was that I couldn't get that one bolt to thread in with my fingers, using a wrench the bolt wouldn't thread easy feeling like it wanted to cross thread. So a took the header off 3 times running a tap in the hole and running bolts in the holes to chase the threads cleaning the hole each time. By 8 last night I took a break to eat and my hands were shaking I was so pissed, I drank a beer and calmed down bit and went back to the shop looking at the header on the floor. I had Jet Hot coat these headers so I ran a drill in that hole and touched the opening up a bit and tried it again. That time the bolt grabbed the threads and I could turn it by hand until I felt confident using a wrench to run it up tight, I finished getting all 8 tight by 9:30 PM, and then sat there contemplating how in the hell it took me so long do do what I just did.

So if the other side is harder either the car or me is going to get shot!!

View attachment 1520853
I sometimes wonder why it takes me so long to do everything anymore ...
you have way more room than I do ...
 
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