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Advice on brake lines. 68 "Bee"

SpartanGarage

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Went with Pirate Jack front disc conversion. rear drum. Is there anything special about ordering factory bent lines? Who would you go through? 1968 Coronet "Super bee" factory air auto and manual brake.
 
Just as a personal preference, I like steel lines instead of stainless. The flares seem to seal better/easier. The mild steel is softer and more malleable and conforms to the flares easier.
 
I contacted SS tubes.

They say: "Our conversion brake lines are made to work with MBM brakes disc conversion kits. I have never heard of Pirate Jack, I'm sure our lines would take a lot of modifications to get to work properly."

Now how different can they really be? I mean I'm using rear drum set up like factory. I believe I have a mount in each front wheel well (correct me if I'm wrong) for the line to be fastened to.
 
Just did this on my 69 bee and used the inline tube kit they have for the manual disc/drum.
The bends were spot on turned out really nice just needed a small amount of tweaking
 
DBB6808 on the kit and I agree with TMM the steel kits are the way to go.
Stainless flares need to be perfect or they won’t seal correctly.
 
I've had zero issues with my stainless lines from Right Stuff.. Sounds like your just need their drum kit (power or manual???) and on the passenger front you need to specify if the line goes under or over the frame rail.
https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/
 
I've had zero issues with my stainless lines from Right Stuff.. Sounds like your just need their drum kit (power or manual???) and on the passenger front you need to specify if the line goes under or over the frame rail.
https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/


How would I find out how they route? I got the car stripped. Is there a certain way to tell?
 
I used steel lines from right stuff detailing on my 68 coronet. Every one of them, bends were perfect. Zero issues, would definitely use again. Both my cars are using their disc/drum master cylinder too. I think it's listed under E-body cars though.
 
The fitting/bracket is the same either way for the hard line to flex transition. Do you have the rubber flap that fills the UCArm adjuster hole. If so, if it's all deformed around the line slot would tell you it was originally over the rail. If not under.

Mine.. Drivers side under, passenger over..
beerestoration2017 1960.JPG
beerestoration2017 1961.JPG
 
The fitting/bracket is the same either way for the hard line to flex transition. Do you have the rubber flap that fills the UCArm adjuster hole. If so, if it's all deformed around the line slot would tell you it was originally over the rail. If not under.

Mine.. Drivers side under, passenger over..View attachment 1024568 View attachment 1024569
Same on my 68
 
Here’s a few pics of how the ones on my bee route.
7456525F-4534-4937-9271-ECE8AF712AF4.jpeg
5EEBC76E-1375-4BB6-BAFF-37F108368C87.jpeg
09A628A5-C757-434B-AE86-F4ED2AA15B0B.jpeg
53662576-62BE-47AE-8832-344BD34F045E.jpeg
 
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