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Aftermarket coil

Standard Motor Products Blue Streak was always good quality stuff.
I agree that your current ballast resistor is kinda high it was likely supposed to be paired with a low primary resistance coil.
You can get Blue Streak pretty inexpensively from RockAuto:
I just picked a 1977.
For a little more you can get an AC Delco Gold or Professional (I know GM) but their stuff was always good too.
View attachment 1496090
So I should just get a low ohm coil? like 1 ohm or lower?
 
So I should just get a low ohm coil? like 1 ohm or lower?
No like others indicated, I would suggest getting another ballast resistor.
I added one on the screenshot along with the blue streak coil.
Look again.
 
No like others indicated, I would suggest getting another ballast resistor.
I added one on the screenshot along with the blue streak coil.
Look again.
Now I see it. I'll try it and see how it goes. Off topic, I also have an Aussie mix rescue. She's my cruise night buddy.
 
Went through two coils after restoring my runner. They lay horizontal on my motor. Both died on me. Then bought an MSD coil at O Raleys and found out the other ones where not sealed where output to the distributor wire is. They leaked the oil out and burned up. So far so good with the new MSD. Ps they are not cheap. LOL.
 
Went through two coils after restoring my runner. They lay horizontal on my motor. Both died on me. Then bought an MSD coil at O Raleys and found out the other ones where not sealed where output to the distributor wire is. They leaked the oil out and burned up. So far so good with the new MSD. Ps they are not cheap. LOL.
I think I may put a couple of spacers under the bracket to raise the coil off the intake. Like the carb spacer. Just up enough to help.
 
Went through two coils after restoring my runner. They lay horizontal on my motor. Both died on me. Then bought an MSD coil at O Raleys and found out the other ones where not sealed where output to the distributor wire is. They leaked the oil out and burned up. So far so good with the new MSD. Ps they are not cheap. LOL.
You need a epoxy filled coil ins preferred horizontally even though all Mopar were oil filled. You really have to match the coil to the resistor and ECU to be reliable. Standard run from especially if the last letter in the part number is a T, lowest end they sell. After market ECU's are all over the place along with the new MP "authorised or replaces" and Mancinie overseas. To many unanswered parts in this one what is the ecu, ballast ohms coil ohm, wires point or electronic, plugs and gaps. Real ECU or a fake one etc.

Just a bit of fyi

ecu III.png


ecu chart 2.png


ECUApplication.jpg
 
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I had some great 55K output stock sized coils at Carlisle all sold on Wed. Have to see if I can get more. 1.5 and 3 ohm.

Lots of info in this one but all over the place.
1974 Brain Box saves the day.
 
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I had some great 55K output stock sized coils at Carlisle all sold on Wed. Have to see if I can get more. 1.5 and 3 ohm.

Lots of info in this one but all over the place.
1974 Brain Box saves the day.
To me, its simply amazing that there are many "Mopar" people that keep on asking the same question about: can I use: take your pick (Accel Super Coil, Blaster II, Pertronix, MSD aftermarket coil, GM "e" shaped coil, brand x, etc) with my ECU or my _x_ ohm ballast resistor......or no ballast resistor.......then wondering why the car quit running......WHY???...and blame everything on Chinese replacement parts.......why not just use the system as designed and quit trying to "engineer" something they know nothing about......in spite of what their next door neighbor's cousin's sister's husband's brother-in law's best buddy's uncle thinks they know.......sooner or later the FBBO servers will explode as they have only so much memory......simply use the info presented by @HALLIFAXHOPS.......... just my opinion of course......
BOB RENTON
 
To me, its simply amazing that there are many "Mopar" people that keep on asking the same question about: can I use: take your pick (Accel Super Coil, Blaster II, Pertronix, MSD aftermarket coil, GM "e" shaped coil, brand x, etc) with my ECU or my _x_ ohm ballast resistor......or no ballast resistor.......then wondering why the car quit running......WHY???...and blame everything on Chinese replacement parts.......why not just use the system as designed and quit trying to "engineer" something they know nothing about......in spite of what their next door neighbor's cousin's sister's husband's brother-in law's best buddy's uncle thinks they know.......sooner or later the FBBO servers will explode as they have only so much memory......simply use the info presented by @HALLIFAXHOPS.......... just my opinion of course......
BOB RENTON
It's how we roll.
 
"why not just use the system as designed"

Yes , there is truth to this

But the system was designed in the 70s

When quality parts like Oil Filled Ignition Coils and ECUs where Made in the USA

When you could lay a oil filled ignition coil on its side like the factory did , and not ask the question , why can’t I lay my Chinese oil filled ignition coil on its side

No one today makes a .5 OHM Dual Ballast Resistor like the factory did in the 70s

Everything today is typically 1.2 or 1.5 OHM from a jobber

And of course dont get me started on all these fake cheap junk ECUs that claim this that and everything

Same crap

Different week

I have had zero issues in the past running a Standard Motor Products UC12 Ignition Coil along with a 1.2 OHM Ballast Resistor with any of the aftermarket Chrysler ECUs Ignition
 
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"why not just use the system as designed"

Yes , there is truth to this

But the system was designed in the 70s

When quality parts like Oil Filled Ignition Coils and ECUs where Made in the USA

When you could lay a oil filled ignition coil on its side like the factory did , and not ask the question , why can’t I lay my Chinese oil filled ignition coil on its side

No one today makes a .5 OHM Dual Ballast Resistor like the factory did in the 70s

Everything today is typically 1.2 or 1.5 OHM from a jobber

And of course dont get me started on all these fake cheap junk ECUs that claim this that and everything

Same crap

Different week

I have had zero issues in the past running a Standard Motor Products UC12 Ignition Coil along with a 1.2 OHM Ballast Resistor with any of the aftermarket Chrysler ECUs Ignition
I totally agree with you. Too much low quality crap out there. People are changing starters and alternators within 2 years. I have a shop that rebuilds mine and they are having a hard time getting quality innards. Their rebuilds are still better than the Autozone and other parts stores. Plus if there's an issue, they take care of it. This is why I ask you all for advise. What works, what's reliable etc. It's not my ignorance, it's my wanting to know how to get better more reliable parts.
 
Got some more 55K output 1.5 ohm coils in. $65 and the ride.
 
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