You will never get 6-8 caster on a stock suspension even with the moog offset upper bushings.0-.25* camber
1/8” total toe in.
Caster and camber will chase each other depending on your aftermarket parts.
Old school tech will adjust caster a smidge for road crown.
The problem is the techs, both young and old these days, have no idea what a "good" alignment is. At best, all they go by is the colors on the screen. If the screen lights up "green" they proclaim it's good to go. Unfortunately, the measurements can be at the opposite extremes of the allowable specs from side to side resulting in a crappy alignment.Therein lies the problem.
The tire store guys are only as smart as their training. If 95% of the cars that come through their shop are less than 20 years old, they are inexperienced at dealing with a chassis that actually has provisions for adjusting the caster and camber.
Remember the flood of FRONT wheel drive cars in the 80s?
Macpherson strut suspension, no camber or caster adjustment at all. The only settings were TOE.
Many cars are still like that. My 2007 Ram 1500 2WD has alignment cams at the lower control arm… strange, huh? The uppers have no adjustment to them.
It is sad but true that to get a proper alignment, you need either an old timer or a younger guy with an open mind and some skill.
Mike you are right on. I know lots of old school techs like to set toe in inches not degrees. But what you are truly trying to achieve is zero dynamic toe.Caster for stability at highway speeds. (it will steer itself) Less caster for manual steering. Camber was originally for road crown. You don't need much. Toe in should be kept close to zero or toe'd in ever so slightly. If it its toed out the car will "hunt" from side to side trying to track straight. Too much toe in and it will scrub the tires. Camber and toe are tire wearing angles. Did I do good @Scott Engelhardt? Correct me if I'm wrong. That's why the SKOSH chart in post #13 works.
Good lord I’m screwed. May have to just load my car up and take it half across the country to get it did correctly. I don’t even trust these guys driving my car and hell a few of them can’t even drive a stick!!! 0ne guy that did my truck last year after putting new ball joints just said take it and drive it and let me know how it feels lol. I started asking him about my Charger and seemed lost AF.Mike you are right on. I know lots of old school techs like to set toe in inches not degrees. But what you are truly trying to achieve is zero dynamic toe.
I like to control my car with caster, adjusting to .3 or .4 degrees less on the left wheel. That is just my preference. My Satellite drives really great with 0 camber 3.1 left caster and 3.5 right caster. 1/16 of a degree toe in.
I have 7500 miles on my front tires with no wear issues.
Best thing a person can do is set a base line then play with it.
That’s easy for me to say when I have a machine in my shop