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Alternator charging problem

Thanks I will try those diagrams,, I was wondering if I ground the green wire it will make the alternator put out its full charge? I noticed that on a you tube video, but I thought it might burn out the wiring. Currently at 800-1000 rpms voltmeter shows 12vdc...
 
Ground the green wire will do effectively… full field the alt. that (not burn the wiring, but just if there is a short around). Not recommended for a regular ride around but for testing the alt, confirming it is working or not.

Of course in case of emergency by a regulator failure on the road, you could also make that if no other easier option (parts shop around, no battery reserve to arrive anywhere) to save the emergency up to get to a safe place for another repair option (if you are not member of the AAA)
 
believe this and the last pic are wrong, being that the other feild wire no longer goes to ignition on the older style regulator but to ground
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believe this and the last pic are wrong, being that the other feild wire no longer goes to ignition on the older style regulator but to ground
View attachment 1966441
The OP has provided specific info to indicate he is working with a ’70 and later dual isolated field alternator and regulator on his ’68, appearing to be correctly wired. The diagrams posted by Nacho are correct for that conversion.
 
Case is grounded to firewall and engine block. What I am confused about is the alternator wiring which is correct

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How is the current charge path wiring laid out? Wire sizing? Routed through the stock bulkhead terminals? The generic blue crimp-on ring connector at the alternator output stud appears a bit underwhelming. I would check your voltage drop between alternator output and the battery while running.
 
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