Aluminum Heads

[Houle #382]

I talked to 440 source today and they told me if I run 3/8 push rods which I'm going to because of the hydraulic roller I'm going to install I will have to make a small modification to the intake push rod hole for clearance. Is there a video or pictures of how to make the modifications as 440 source said they have to documentation or video on what exactly what to do.

 

[cdr]

I talked to 440 source today and they told me if I run 3/8 push rods which I'm going to because of the hydraulic roller I'm going to install I will have to make a small modification to the intake push rod hole for clearance. Is there a video or pictures of how to make the modifications as 440 source said they have to documentation or video on what exactly what to do.

I like running larger pushrods, that said I have the Trend one piece 5/16 on my set up,they are the thicker tubing I have about 11k street strip miles on it, all looks good last time I had the covers off, mild hyd roller, .610 255,258

 

[gkent]

I like running larger pushrods, that said I have the Trend one piece 5/16 on my set up,

3/8 is larger than 5/16

 

[gkent]

Basically its trial and error. You install the heads, a lifter and pushrod, etc and you rotate the cam and check where it rubs in the head. You then use a die grinder and carbide burr to remove material in that area and the same area for each pushrod (with the head off of course!). You want about .010 of clearance between the pushrod and anything else. You reinstall the head and this time install all lifters and pushrods and you then check that they all have adequate clearance through full travel. Have fun. BTW - you'd have to do this with stock heads too so don't think its just an issue with the 440Source heads. Its the cam that's to blame.

 

[cdr]

3/8 is larger than 5/16

Yep I know that my point is I have the source heads & run the 5/16 , less grinding

 

[gkent]

Yep I know that my point is I have the source heads & run the 5/16 , less grinding

Ah, now I understand !

 

[diesel_lv]

I'm running Smith Brothers 5/16 pushrods on my hydraulic roller cam w 440 Source heads. Not sure why you need 3/8. Mine have held up 18 months great so far. You will need a pushrod length checker too. The roller lifters are a different length and require different length pushrods.

 

[Houle #382]

I'm running Smith Brothers 5/16 pushrods on my hydraulic roller cam w 440 Source heads. Not sure why you need 3/8. Mine have held up 18 months great so far. You will need a pushrod length checker too. The roller lifters are a different length and require different length pushrods.

The 3/8 push rod is what Scott Brown wants me to run in his kit so I'm not going to question him as the setup I have now is the one I bought from him 15 years ago and never had a issue.

 

[forphorty]

Because more power in the street (or the track) is a good thing and fun to drive. Check out the “Engine Masters” show and there 440 cylinder head shoot out.

I just can't relate to the OP's "never at the strip" statement. If I spend good money on a performance motor, I for sure want to see what it runs at the track. I've seen the Enginemasters episode. The Trick Flows have been on my wish list for a while.

 

[rumblefish360]

A bigger or yet better, stiffer pushrod is always what you want, weight be ranked!

A dremel or die grinder will be needed to egg out the round hole in the spots where the pushrod rubs. Machinist die is a great help here.

 

[SpeedD408]

I just can't relate to the OP's "never at the strip" statement. If I spend good money on a performance motor, I for sure want to see what it runs at the track. I've seen the Enginemasters episode. The Trick Flows have been on my wish list for a while.

I believe he means that his car is a street only car. Meaning no drag time. Therefore, gaining 20HP at 6000 RPM is not worth it as the OP will never take the engine up to 6000 RPM. They care about 1500-4500 RPM where the car lives 90% of the time while driving around town and cruising on the highway.

 

[Houle #382]

I believe he means that his car is a street only car. Meaning no drag time. Therefore, gaining 20HP at 6000 RPM is not worth it as the OP will never take the engine up to 6000 RPM. They care about 1500-4500 RPM where the car lives 90% of the time while driving around town and cruising on the highway.

HA HA don't count on it never running up to 6k RPM. First off peak HP is less than 6k rpm. All the dyno sheets with a similar set up to which I'm going to peak HP is in the 5600 to 5700 range so why over spin it ? Second of all I have more fun on the street beating all these guys who brag how fast their cars are at the track. Yea the track is fun but the street is neat. One thing for sure I will gain more than 20 hp !

 

[rumblefish360]

Run the best head you can afford. TF’s 240 would be a really good head in the street. Stepping up to an Indy or Brodix for the street is t unheard off or unseen ether.

 

[GTX JOHN]

Some years ago Brandon did have one run of Heads that were very thin in
spring seat area and cracked and leaked. However, this was years ago and had
some bad roller rockers at the same time. He did warranty everything for us. I
have no complaint with him at all!

Unfortunately = None of this was detectable thru inspection before we ran and broke engine. Since then I have not heard anything bad about him and I still run some of his
stuff.
50 CFMs is a huge amount on a set of heads that are durable enough for the street and not Welded and Epoxied with raised ports and too fragile to run on the Street.!! I am not doubting it but way more than we have ever seen and I have been racing these cars competitively since they were new.

 

[BSB67]

If you have a car that's only going to be driven on the road never at the strip is it really worth the expense of a good set of aluminum heads ..............

I'm not sure what going to the track has to do with anything. If you really care about maximizing your car's power and performance, you'll go to the track irrespective of the heads you have. If you don't go to the track, then its all just talk and you can believe what ever you want.

Are aluminum heads worth it? I don't know. If you believe that a 265 cfm aluminum head costs $2,500, and that Toth can give you a solid set of iron heads w/ hardened seats that flow 265 cfm for $1,200, then the iron head is probably a better hp/$ even with the disadvantaged combustion chamber and extra weight.

However, my aluminum heads flow considerably more than 265 cfm and cost considerably less than $2,500, and my iron heads that flow 265 cfm cost considerably more than $1,200 ten years ago.

Only you can decide if its worth it to you, and it seems you've already made your decision.

 

[PRHeads]

Stealth heads with a proper valve job and bowl blend will flow right about [email protected] lift.

They’re generally in the 260-265 range ootb.

 

[diesel_lv]

Stealth heads with a proper valve job and bowl blend will flow right about [email protected] lift.

They’re generally in the 260-265 range ootb.

Muscle Motors in Michigan did my CNC machining, not cheap, but in the ballpark w everyone else. My 440 Source heads flow at 315cfm at .600 intake and 233 cfm at .600 exhaust. Absolutely no complaints. Well I have 1, 10.5:1 on questionable 91 octane detonates on moderate throttle w 34° total mechanical. Even w the 2 heaviest springs, timing comes in too early for an automatic street driver. These heads on a 496 stroker produced 610 hp at 5,200 on dyno n 670 tq.

 

[67Satty]

I'm going to make the case for the Edelbrock E Street over the 440Source Stealth head.

The $1200 Stealth heads will end up costing more than the $1440 E Streets when you factor in 440Source will charge for shipping compared to Summit or Jegs offering free shipping. Then add in the cost of the new locks, retainers, and springs that even 440Source will recommend you purchase if using a cam over .500 lift. Also, the E Streets will not require grinding for 3/8" pushrod clearance like the Stealths. How much is your time worth?

Finally, OOTB the E Street will outflow the OOTB Stealth.

So since the price is essentially the same, the only reason to run the Stealths would be for cosmetic reasons (you want to paint them and keep your engine looking stock).

Besides the 3/10ths my car picked up in the 1/8 mile, my engine seems to run smoother and crisper with the aluminum heads compared to the iron 452s that were on it before.

 

[BSB67]

I'm going to make the case for the Edelbrock E Street over the 440Source Stealth head.

The $1200 Stealth heads will end up costing more than the $1440 E Streets when you factor in 440Source will charge for shipping compared to Summit or Jegs offering free shipping. Then add in the cost of the new locks, retainers, and springs that even 440Source will recommend you purchase if using a cam over .500 lift. Also, the E Streets will not require grinding for 3/8" pushrod clearance like the Stealths.

Finally, OOTB the E Street will outflow the OOTB Stealth.

Plus a bump in compression ratio

 

[Dodge 330]

I traded for a set of Stealths a few years ago that were brand new. Sent them off and had them CNC ported. I decided to run thick wall 5/16" Manton pushrods. In my experience, at this level the 3/8" pushrods aren't necessary. Zero issues and my car is rhe poster child for abuse! It goes to the track almost every weekend in the Summer and gets driven a LOT! Been a 10.0 and quite a few 10.2's.