Ammeter ?

[Moparfiend]

Ok so looking at my schematic it has an Ammeter in series with the alternator. I realize this is problematic to have BUT I do not have an Ameter in ny dash or at least the guage...

Does this mean I do not have an Ammeter in series and it just passes right on theough? Or is there an Ameter for a dummy light or something else? I have yet to light up the car until I figure out why its not getting juice...

 

[mmissile]

I've always by-passed my amp gauges. Had one cause a fire, back in the day. It smoked the whole dash-harness and charging circuit, outta my Hurst-300.

 

[threewood]

Hmmmm, some event has to trigger the idiot light, like low voltage. I honestly don't know but I would guess an ammeter circuit is in there somewhere. Tag for more knowledgeable responses.

 

[Speedbird]

I don't understand.
Are you saying there is an amp meter in the prints but not in your car?
You will get a lot of "help" on this.
I think the answer is you do not "need" an amp meter.
But the current has to go through those wires "as built".
If the amp meter is "missing" there is a problem.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...ammeter-is-a-good-idea.137951/#post-910770653

 

[Moparfiend]

Well I took a look and INDEED I have an "Alternator" meter which I presume means it is an ammeter? I assume this is what maybe the culprit to my electrical woes but until I pull the dash I will not know. Onlyone I will read that post and see if it clearly explains how to bypass the ammeter. I know it should be a simple bypass but getting at it is where I will need some help. I am used to working on a vette in which behind the dash work was like the worst possible work on those things. These look much easier but I know it will be an ordeal either way.
I do have the factory assembly manual so that will help but anyone having some advice for me would be greatly appreciated....

Thanks in advance !

 

[67belvedere/225]

I put on a gm self exiting alternator , and ran a huge wire positive to the battery ( and fused it)
i just removed the ammeter and ran a volt gauge in the dash instead and also shaped out the oil light for a oil ps gauge , was work but i like the look. the problem with a amp gauge is aha all the electricity has to go through the amp meter in the dash then fills the battery with it s charge , and the wires terminal are crap
and get old so when that fails bye bye the car shuts down or catches fire

 

[67belvedere/225]

here is how it looks i swapped over the volt meter where the oil light was and installed a gauge i bought from a ford van that fit in perfect where the amp meter was it actually looks stock!

 

[Moparfiend]

here is how it looks i swapped over the volt meter where the oil light was and installed a gauge i bought from a ford van that fit in perfect where the amp meter was it actually looks stock!

View attachment 546578 View attachment 546579 View attachment 546580

Looks good man!
Yup high current lines have no business in the passenger compartment IMO. I know others say that's fine but your right the connectors fail and get ohmic and when they do they get hot and they get more ohmic and then they get hotter until it burns.
Also they used to run fuel pressure gauges and oil pressure gauges inside the passenger compartment until they had electrical sending units. My 1970 vette was a good example of that! Not a safe deal IMO again.....

The question is is the shunt right behind the gauge or located somewhere else?

 

[khryslerkid]

I'm thinking you have a 1970 RR?

Wouldn't it have a "voltage meter" by then?

That's what this 70's guage reads. Voltage not amperage. No need to bypass?

 

[Kern Dog]

Sorry, wrong. Look at the "Alternator" guage closer...No alternator runs at 40 volts!
Ammeters were used into the 70s. I thought I read somewhere that the Police cars had voltmeters. If true, Ma Mopar must have known the ammeter design was not ideal.

 

[khryslerkid]

Sorry, wrong. Look at the "Alternator" guage closer...No alternator runs at 40 volts!
Ammeters were used into the 70s. I thought I read somewhere that the Police cars had voltmeters. If true, Ma Mopar must have known the ammeter design was not ideal.

Yepper! I'll make an optometrist appointment first thing tomorrow morning!

Ameter? Nothing? Lol

 

[Kern Dog]

Ameter? Nothing? Lol

I got that....Yeah, he is new and seems like he spelled it correctly in a later post.
My reputation.....Hard to live down.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

OOOOOK, here I go again....

LOL... no, I'm a bit tired of this... most of you guys know what I have to tell and is posted maybe a dozen of times ( just here ) and even more on several other mopar boards.

The main difference is just the pro-voltimeter guys are more ( which doesn't mean you are right LOL... democracy defects LOL ) mostly because ignorance of how the system works ( just in case, not everyone, but most of the ppl )

 

[Moparfiend]

I'm thinking you have a 1970 RR?

Wouldn't it have a "voltage meter" by then?

That's what this 70's guage reads. Voltage not amperage. No need to bypass?
View attachment 546607

Its actually a 1970 Sport Satellite with an "Alternator" gauge which is an Ammeter.

 

[Moparfiend]

Not sure if I should start a new thread or just add to this one. Well here it goes. I need to bounce the stuff I am finding off you guys because there are a lot of variables in the electrical issues I am finding. Need your help!

Facts:

• I get 12V now through the firewall and bulkhead connector via the fusible link
• 12V is at the alternator
• Headlights and horn work
• Dizzy disconnected
• Coil disconnected
• I can use a remote at the firewall and get the starter to crank the engine just fine
• Ammeter shunt is working and visually looks new for what that's worth
• Cleaned and inspected the bulkhead connectors no visible signs of heat or melting other than the the fusible link must have burned out and was shoddily repaired. I soldered it back in and used shrink tubing.
  
• All fusses in the block are intact and new

Issues:

• When I tried to start the car to see if it would crank from the ignition switch I saw smoke and heard sparks coming from the area of the steering column cylinder lock/ignition switch. I later saw that the steering column ground was disconnected ( my bad). So I reconnected it and tried again to energize the ignition and the fusible link almost blew I saw smoke from the link and when I went to check it out it was hot. I again inspected the contacts and they are fine. Something in the ignition circuit is shorted but I am not sure. The schematic is not clear to me. Also I am not sure the ignition relay is correctly wired up as Bubba was in there. I believe it to be the relay as its a two terminal device but I was only able to remove the plastic portion of the dash the metal is more like the dash frame. I have the ashtray out as well as the glove box. Any thought on how I can debug this mess?

• Found a pink(?) wire with a black trace that comes out of a harness at the drivers left leg area runs across the entire dash to the fuse box? Not sure because the wire was fried. Only the strands were visible for most it not all the run. I can't find what wire this is from the schematic but it obviously could have burned the car to the ground. The previous owners have disconnected a bunch of connectors I am also trying to figure out but I am just focusing right now on the ignition so I can get the car started. Can anyone help me identify this wire?

 

[Moparfiend]

Bumping for any electrical wisdom...

 

[miller]

Found a pink(?) wire with a black trace that comes out of a harness at the drivers left leg area runs across the entire dash to the fuse box?

Sounds like you have more than one problem.

But, for starters, visually trace that pink wire, from end to end, to figure out what it's for. If that wire isn't on the main wiring diagrams, more than likely, it will be on one of the added circuits diagrams. In the service manual, those added circuits can be found, if you have an idea what's in the circuit that pink wire is in.

 

[Moparfiend]

Hi Miller thanks for the response. That pink wire with the black trace disappears into a harness as indicaton the previous post by the drivers left knee in the leftmost fender kick panel area. I can not trace beyond it.

Yes more than one problem I have as Bubba made a difficult problem into a puzzle with missing pieces.

The big problem is when I try and crank I get no crank but short out the main fusible link. I have been able to crank with a remote starter switch. I see no way around this problem other than to remove the wheel and pull the starter switch and see if its shorted. Its the only explanation to that issue unless some electrical guru can point me to some other things to check.

I don’t know much about the ignition circuit but I assume that is on in the run position and hence is not the main culprit since its not shorted in the run position just the start position beyond that is shorted. Also smoke from the column is a good hint lol.

 

[Glenwood]

It sounds like the wire passing through the column to your starter relay is shorting on the column someplace. That's where I would start. Disconnect the column connector and check continuity of the start wire to the column metal (ground).

 

[Moparfiend]

It sounds like the wire passing through the column to your starter relay is shorting on the column someplace. That's where I would start. Disconnect the column connector and check continuity of the start wire to the column metal (ground).

Thanks Glenwood for the help! I will do that in the AM and post back my findings!