Amp meter elimination

[steve from staten island]

When i took my 69 b body apart the red wire to the amp meter was melted. Ive been reading about these amp meters and im still sort of confused. I dont need the amp meter. Ive read were its been able to convert them to a volt meter but leave the amp meter gauge in my dash (non ralley dash) This would be fine. Im confused and need advise on exactly what i should do with this amp meter. Wiring is new but dash is a nice looking unit i bought. I really have no idea of the condition of the amp meter.... Can anyone share anything or what i should do--------------Thanks

 

[khryslerkid]

This is one of the most popular articles on this.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Part #2 the fix

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges2.shtml

 

[max340]

I soldered the two wires together and installed a separate voltmeter under the ash tray. I only did it after reading all the horror stories about melting wires.

 

[khryslerkid]

I soldered the two wires together and installed a separate voltmeter under the ash tray. I only did it after reading all the horror stories about melting wires.

The connections at the bulk head are a weak spot too.

 

[snakeoil24]

Steve,

The fix from MAD Electrical is the Gospel of fixes for this. You call Mark if needed but the guy is really smart.

 

[moes]

The connections at the bulk head are a weak spot too.

if you are worried about the bulk head connectors, you can run a 8 gauge wire from your alternator with an inline fuse to your starter relay. That will take the load off your bulkhead connections

 

[polywideblock]

can't you simply put both ends over one terminal on the back of the amp gauge thus bypassing it and joining the two wires ?

 

[383MovingViolation]

Steve,

The fix from MAD Electrical is the Gospel of fixes for this. You call Mark if needed but the guy is really smart.

Yes, Mark is the man. He sold me everything I needed and told me how to do it. I had a melt down at the firewall connector. This is a common thing with these cars. Get rid of the AMP meter before you burn the car up. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[OH71RRunner]

The main reason for failure of wires going to the ammeter is due to corrosion or loose terminals. Running the additional wire like suggested above will help with the load through the bulkhead.
As long as you connect the wires together securely, you can bypass it.
The ammeter is nice but everything runs through it. The ammeter tells you where the power is coming from; battery or alternator. A volt gauge just tells you the voltage in the system. It doesn't tell you where the power comes from.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

You have that solution, and then the CORRECT way to do it, on a Mopar way, and getting corrected what MAD says ( which is not true the main splice is being moved out of the cab like they state there ).

and UNDERSTANDING how to read an ammeter and source correctly every added accesory to not overload incorrectly the system.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html

 

[steve from staten island]

So Nacho, my head is spinning from all this LOL. What your telling me is i should replace my alternator with one that would charge the battery at idle? Any idea what alternator will bolt right on with no modification to wiring? Thanks

 

[bm02tj]

Some where there is a post on wire size for the winding
They stated the rewinder for rebuilt alternators are using a heaver gauge wire and in doing so losing some of the low speed
power but maintain AMP out put at high RPM to save time and money
This compounds the problem by discharging battery at idle then higher amp charge when driving

 

[440+6]

I put a smaller pulley on mine, charges great at idle. Also my car has all original wiring and amp guage and hasn't caught on fire yet

 

[Dennis H]

Mine is bypassed to prevent fire. Don't need it. Bypassed for 15 years. If not charging, you will know it.

 

[OH71RRunner]

I had charging issues at one time. I upgraded my wiring. Solved my problems.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

So Nacho, my head is spinning from all this LOL. What your telling me is i should replace my alternator with one that would charge the battery at idle? Any idea what alternator will bolt right on with no modification to wiring? Thanks

Sorry! That's an old thread and maybe my english was still poor back in those days ( not saying now is WAY better LOL )

Ok! First

You need an alt able to source your car iddling or closer to iddle as posible. This should include all the lighting, stereo, AC/Heater blower and wipers. A good alt will keep free the ammeter from loads coming and going between alt and batt. Just the splice inside the cab being feeded from alt.

No load on amm, no heat there.

Which one or how to do it? You choose. If you want stockish look, a 80s stock alt is able to give around 45-50 amps iddling with the small pulley they come.

You can also change your existant pulley too. But I don't think will be enough yet anyway.

Another options... Niponndenso alt, performance replacement alts ( i.e. tuff stuff, dbelectrical etc... ). These are able to work on existant wiring.

Next step. Upgrade the charging paths. You can make it running a parallel one like I did ( because I restored my existant wiring and decided to keep it ) or REPLACE the existant charging wires and MANDATORY, run it out of the bulkhead.

You can keep your ammeter in line. With the alt upgrade it will barelly read loads, SO NO MATTER IF THEORICALLY holds JUST 40 amperes. This doesn't mean even the ammeter won't read that load ( or just at certain moments like when engine is off ) the wiring won't get that load!!! The wiring with the bypassed bulkhead will be able NOW to hold the load required by the car without suck from the batt! But AT LEAST the alt side of the wiring will be handling that load ot even more at certain moments. Just not coming from batt ( hence the Discharge reading ) so saving the ammeter at the same time.

Of course is MANDATORY the propper mantenience on wiring and terminals, isolations... cars is not just sheetmetal gas and oil! Is ELECTRICITY TOO. So take your time to get it care to your care there too

 

[steve from staten island]

My alternator was rebuilt by a reputable shop. Could i take it back and let him check it or modify it?

 

[steve from staten island]

The other thing is i wont be using this car on a daily bases. I also faithfully use a battery disconnect switch. The wiring harness is new and i didnt want to modify it from original. So would having the right alternator help?

 

[Dennis H]

The other thing is i wont be using this car on a daily bases. I also faithfully use a battery disconnect switch. The wiring harness is new and i didnt want to modify it from original. So would having the right alternator help?

I too use a battery cutoff switch to prevent any parasitic drain. Mine is marine grade from West Marine. I am very aware of power issues for theft deterrent and carry three extinguishers. Road plan with (unreliable) spouse is - she grabs the extinguisher - halon first - and I shut off the battery.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

If not a driver, a nice alt should be enough. The bigger deal is the low capacity of the stock specs alts, more than the wiring itself. Wiring and terminals are the next. If you want some safety added, just run a wire between alt post and ammeter post on black side could be enough to keep safer the bulkhead. No need to cut anything, but run the wire through an existant grommet.


The alt you have could be done per stock specs, nor upgraded necesarily and still not enough. IF they can make an RPM vs OUTPUT test, will be nice to know what you have in hands.

As mentioned, something into 45 amps rate at 800-900 ENGINE RPMs ( not alt RPMs ) should be really nice.