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Another intake thread

the best intake I tried was the rpm performer and the next best was a stock intake ported by Wilson. the ch4b and the regular performer made no difference in performance over the stock 1969 intake. the street dominator killed low end torque and did help after 3500 rpms. all on mild built 440
 
The M1 dual plane is the aluminum version of the factory cast iron. The CH4B is considerably different in height, cross sectional area, and naturally, volume than the factory unit.
Learned something new Personally I’ve liked the old Muscle Hustle catolog recommendations and worked well on the day on the stock cars
The 71 intake is no slouch.

@BSB67 says no it’s not. So maybe someone else can confirm it is or it isn’t.

Well the whole point of this thread is to use the dual snorkel.

Then the factory cast iron is just as good.

I’ve been thinking about this option too. Might just go this route.

The 71 intake flows as good if not better than a performer.

I think a lot of you guys are missing the point that this 71 factory intake is the best flowing 440 intake Chrysler ever built. It ranks in the top 5 when put up against the others mentioned here. I wish I could find that comparison article with the dyno numbers.
There was a FB post maybe FAST but there was a post where someone tricked out the 71 iron intake and looked really impressive for a reworked iron factory intake
 
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the best intake I tried was the rpm performer and the next best was a stock intake ported by Wilson. the ch4b and the regular performer made no difference in performance over the stock 1969 intake. the street dominator killed low end torque and did help after 3500 rpms. all on mild built 440
What was the et and mph of the unmodified stock intake and the CH4B?
 
The 71 Mopar intake has a center divider. The only difference I see between the 71 OEM and the CH4B is aluminum vs cast iron. The 71 probably flows just as good as the CH4B.

the best intake I tried was the rpm performer and the next best was a stock intake ported by Wilson. the ch4b and the regular performer made no difference in performance over the stock 1969 intake. the street dominator killed low end torque and did help after 3500 rpms. all on mild built 440

Learned something new Personally I’ve liked the old Muscle Hustle catolog recommendations and worked well on the day on the stock cars

There was a FB post maybe FAST but there was a post where someone tricked out the 71 iron intake and looked really impressive for a reworked iron factory intake

Sure but at what cost $$$ ?
Not an issue if the dual snorkel fits

What was the et and mph of the unmodified stock intake and the CH4B?
13.99 ET 100.1 mph vs 13.99 ET 100.2 mph. 67 Newport 4400 lbs with 2.94 gears
Sounds like the 71 intake is the solution to keep the dual snorkel.
What didn’t work? I was in the same boat. I insisted on keeping the dual snorkel air cleaner. It took a bunch of tries but I kept ordering different drop bases from Summit until I found a combo that worked. In the end I had to modify the one that I chose but not a big deal. Worked great
How did you make a drop base work on the stock dual snorkel? A drop base won’t drop the stock duel snorkel.
 
I'm not trying to be a wise guy, but I build several engines each year. I have a rowdy 440 6 barrel GTX with 450 ish HP and that thing is very violent when I nail it. At a 10MPH roll it destroys the tires until I let off of it, hitting second gear so violently the body shutters, I couldn't imagine anymore power in a stock chassis.

There is no way that engine will make 600HP no less 700HP. You would need one serious set of heads, intake, and carb with 12.5:1 compression or more on race fuel for numbers like that. if it made that much power you would tear that pretty car apart from the torque, you don't want to make a race car out of that thing, do you?

That engine add is bogus, you machine the block to the pistons to provide the proper clearance per the piston manufacture. I wouldn't use that builder based on what I read, too many areas that aren't outlined properly. when an engine builder, especially a Mopar builder says chrome water neck and such I'm out the door.
 
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I'm not trying to be a wise guy, but I build several engines each year. I have a rowdy 440 6 barrel GTX with 450 ish HP and that thing is very violent when I nail it. At a 10MPH roll it destroys the tires until I let off of it, hitting second gear so violently the body shutters, I couldn't imagine anymore power in a stock chassis.

There is no way that engine will make 600HP no less 700HP. You would need one serious set of heads, intake, and carb with 12.5:1 compression or more on race fuel for numbers like that. if it made that much power you would tear that pretty car apart from the torque, you don't want to make a race car out of that thing, do you?

That engine add is bogus, you machine the block to the pistons to provide the proper clearance per the piston manufacture. I wouldn't use that builder based on what I read, too many areas that aren't outlined properly. when an engine builder, especially a Mopar builder says chrome water neck and such I'm out the door.
Voice of reason here!
 
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