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Any experience with the katech whistler?

Xp29h

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I was recently loaned a katech whistler compression ratio tester for my 383. It's in my 69 Charger and it has never seemed right since I got it. The machine shoots air into cylinder and gives off a tone depending on cylinder size as piston moves up to TDC. From the info placed into it, temp and bore/stroke and size, it calculates highest compression ratio. From what I've been told it's used more in racing applications to make sure ratios fall within the guidelines..

Heres a link..
http://store.katechengines.com/whistler-compression-ratio-tester-p174.aspx

This 383 Is very tight! Difficult to turn by hand. Tightest I've ever seen. When I spoke to the machinist that did the work for the p.o., he was very quick to state he did not install the pistons! Hmmmm.

Symptoms: no matter which carb I place on it, no matter which intake, single or double, the results are the same. Not even close to good from initial off the line, once you get the rpms up, then it pulls pretty good and seems to have good top end. Very little vacuum with a mild cam. About 10"

The test: I couldn't get it to read anything for a few tries, know I had it on TDC. Finally I got a reading on cylinder 1 of 5.4 then 6.3 then 7.2 then rather than holding the reading like it should and did on a good engine. it dropped back to zero..I tried again and got same results..the air leaking by somewhere!

I know the heads are good, they were redone due to the issues from p.o. I've been through everything I can think of on the top end. The bottom side is the only place left.

What do you think? My guess is the ring gap was too tight, causing some cracks there around the rings on the piston or rings themselves? If the case I'm surprised it does well at top end without coming apart? Thoughts?

I think I've got a plan but I would like to see some of your thoughts before i continue..can't beat experience!

Thanks..
 
I'm not familiar with the Whistler. Two thoughts come to mind. Did you check cranking compression with an old-school gauge? Did you check cam orientation with a degree wheel?
OK, three: did you verify spark advance curve -vs- RPM?
 
I did. After the Whistler test I got an old school gauge and it reads about 105..then drips right off. that is too low I would imagine. This I think tells the story.. I forgot to add that in the first post.. sorry.

As far as the cam, We put in a new one and installed with degree wheel.

New MSD 6al2 programmable with pro billet dist

I am really sure it's not a timing issue at this point I've been all over that many times and even with people that know much more than me. They have looked at initial and the curve on the distributor and said its right where it needs to be.. initial is up there at 20 deg. and all in at 36.

thanks, for the thoughts...
 
I was recently loaned a katech whistler compression ratio tester for my 383. It's in my 69 Charger and it has never seemed right since I got it. The machine shoots air into cylinder and gives off a tone depending on cylinder size as piston moves up to TDC. From the info placed into it, temp and bore/stroke and size, it calculates highest compression ratio. From what I've been told it's used more in racing applications to make sure ratios fall within the guidelines..

Heres a link..
http://store.katechengines.com/whistler-compression-ratio-tester-p174.aspx

This 383 Is very tight! Difficult to turn by hand. Tightest I've ever seen. When I spoke to the machinist that did the work for the p.o., he was very quick to state he did not install the pistons! Hmmmm.

Symptoms: no matter which carb I place on it, no matter which intake, single or double, the results are the same. Not even close to good from initial off the line, once you get the rpms up, then it pulls pretty good and seems to have good top end. Very little vacuum with a mild cam. About 10"

The test: I couldn't get it to read anything for a few tries, know I had it on TDC. Finally I got a reading on cylinder 1 of 5.4 then 6.3 then 7.2 then rather than holding the reading like it should and did on a good engine. it dropped back to zero..I tried again and got same results..the air leaking by somewhere!

I know the heads are good, they were redone due to the issues from p.o. I've been through everything I can think of on the top end. The bottom side is the only place left.

What do you think? My guess is the ring gap was too tight, causing some cracks there around the rings on the piston or rings themselves? If the case I'm surprised it does well at top end without coming apart? Thoughts?

I think I've got a plan but I would like to see some of your thoughts before i continue..can't beat experience!

Thanks..

First, whistle the checking bottle to verify the machine is working properly. If it is, you probably have a large air leak somewhere. Either the engine is not on the compression stroke or there is a bent valve, hole in the piston, etc. The air source is low volume and low pressure, so it's not enough that a loose ring gap would affect it.
 
My thought was that there was a big air leak somewhere. Either piston, valve(s) etc....

My plan it to take the motor out tear it all part and go all through it. Right now, I'm leaning toward stoking it. If it's not a fubar! Not sure which kit yet but still looking. If block is messed, plan b..?

Thanks!!
 
My thought was that there was a big air leak somewhere. Either piston, valve(s) etc....

My plan it to take the motor out tear it all part and go all through it. Right now, I'm leaning toward stoking it. If it's not a fubar! Not sure which kit yet but still looking. If block is messed, plan b..?

Thanks!!
Sorry to pull up this old thread but rather posting a new one it would be good to find out what happened to your motor and if you got the Whistler to work correctly.
 
Thanks! I finally did get the whistler to work properly! Great instrument! Found out compression was very low in the ole 383 hp. She was not put together correctly.

Right now that 68 383 hp is resting comfortably on an engine stand in my garage playing backup to a 400 based 512 stroker that we built and it goes very well when there isn’t snow on the ground
:lol:
 
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