Any thoughts about how to get this out?

[Kern Dog]

I mean no offense when I state this but I am amazed to learn that there are car guys that don't have a welder or can't weld. I'm not a great welder but can get it done. Not having that ability really limits the ability to fix and fabricate on these old cars.

 

[Don Frelier]

I mean no offense when I state this but I am amazed to learn that there are car guys that don't have a welder or can't weld. I'm not a great welder but can get it done. Not having that ability really limits the ability to fix and fabricate on these old cars.

If the head of the bolt sheared off since the bolt is galled badly in the block then I don't think welding a nut on the end is going to help anyway.
It will likely just shear off as well.

I can weld but my son can fabricate, big difference.
So I usually have to wait until he can help because the results are so much better.

 

[SlingLow]

I mean no offense when I state this but I am amazed to learn that there are car guys that don't have a welder or can't weld. I'm not a great welder but can get it done. Not having that ability really limits the ability to fix and fabricate on these old cars.

Well, I can't weld but I do have a welder. His name is Shawn and he's my nephew. After helping him get set up with his own fabrication shop, he's Shawnny-on-the-Spot helping me with my projects. My background is in accounting, finance, and real estate investing and development. By the time I got back into the car game, I just didn't feel like learning that particular skill. No offense taken!

 

[Don Frelier]

Well, I can't weld but I do have a welder. His name is Shawn and he's my nephew. After helping him get set up with his own fabrication shop, he's Shawnny-on-the-Spot helping me with my projects. My background is in accounting, finance, and real estate investing and development. By the time I got back into the car game, I just didn't feel like learning that particular skill. No offense taken!

Like many things in life:
"It's not what you know, it's who you know"

 

[RussT Plymouths]

Been there, my 73 had broken OEM adjusters when I bought it. My first choice is torch, I can have them out in less than 5 minutes a side. Yes you will scorch paint. Raise the car high enough to be able to work with the suspension hanging. Cut off the lower half of the bolt flush with the nut first. It preheats things, but the nut won't come out of the LCA if it's still there. From the front, start cutting the top half of the bolt flush with the nut. As you cut, pressure from the torsion bar will slowly push the bolt towards the nut, so keep cutting. When it's loose, use a long screwdriver to push the hot slag out of there. Be sure to let it drop to the floor, it's still very hot. After it cools, install replacement parts and adjust ride height.

Second choice would be a drill and long bits. Your adjusters don't look to be OEM quality and hardness so this may work. Drill a 3/16" hole on the inboard and outboard sides of the nut. Continue to enlarge the holes until the nut is weak enough to break using a cold chisel. I believe this would be a lot easier to control than a saws-all, and maybe save paint.

If the nut proves too hard to drill maybe try a Die grinder with small stones on the inboard and outboard sides of the nut. Keep grinding till the nut is weakened enough to break.

Good luck and stay safe.

 

[69Bee]

...My 1/2' torque wrench could not loosen them...

This statement bothers me. Don't abuse your torque wrench like this. Use an impact guns (air/electric) or breaker bar to loosen/tighten bolts/nuts. A torque wrench can be damaged by using it to loosen fasteners. Also, always use a lubricant or anti-seize on threads, especially under a heavy torque situation so it won't gall like yours have done.

 

[Joel Talka]

OK, I managed to get one side done via sawzall. Bought 5 "thick steel" blades plus one carbide tipped. Went through all six but got one side out. Raised the front end, removed the wheel, disconnected the UCA bumper and removed the bottom shock bolt , let the suspension sag. What's interesting is that there was no stress on the adjuster.

Check out the pictures... The bolt that was in there looks to be a grade 2 as opposed to the new one which is a grade 8. I'm no expert but looks to me that the ones I originally bought were junk...

Installed the new adjuster with gobs of copper anti seize compound, went in just fine..

Another lesson learned (the hard way!).

Going to tackle the other side tomorrow morning....

Thanks again for all the info, very much appreciated, you guys are the best!!

Joel

 

[Joel Talka]

This statement bothers me. Don't abuse your torque wrench like this. Use an impact guns (air/electric) or breaker bar to loosen/tighten bolts/nuts. A torque wrench can be damaged by using it to loosen fasteners. Also, always use a lubricant or anti-seize on threads, especially under a heavy torque situation so it won't gall like yours have done.

Thanks for the advice, sorry I did not know that. I finally went to the impact wrench which sheared the bolts. Lesson learned too on lube but I don't think in this case it would have made a whole lot of difference....

 

[Kern Dog]

The broken bolt looks like Chinesium.
I’m glad you got it out.

 

[yella71]

Yep, I do realize that.. But you know, even if I disassemble the front end and take the LCA out, I'm still going to cut the thing to get it out, probably the same on the other side as well...

just sayin take care not to get wacked by the spring pressure when you cut it loose.

 

[Joel Talka]

I mean no offense when I state this but I am amazed to learn that there are car guys that don't have a welder or can't weld. I'm not a great welder but can get it done. Not having that ability really limits the ability to fix and fabricate on these old cars.

Agree, bought one a bit ago and are still doing small things.

 

[Fran Blacker]

OK, I managed to get one side done via sawzall. Bought 5 "thick steel" blades plus one carbide tipped. Went through all six but got one side out. Raised the front end, removed the wheel, disconnected the UCA bumper and removed the bottom shock bolt , let the suspension sag. What's interesting is that there was no stress on the adjuster.

Check out the pictures... The bolt that was in there looks to be a grade 2 as opposed to the new one which is a grade 8. I'm no expert but looks to me that the ones I originally bought were junk...

Installed the new adjuster with gobs of copper anti seize compound, went in just fine..

Another lesson learned (the hard way!).

Going to tackle the other side tomorrow morning....

Thanks again for all the info, very much appreciated, you guys are the best!!

Joel

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Put stuff like that in a corner of toolbox, they're little big . Maybe a piece.

 

[Big bill]

OK, I managed to get one side done via sawzall. Bought 5 "thick steel" blades plus one carbide tipped. Went through all six but got one side out. Raised the front end, removed the wheel, disconnected the UCA bumper and removed the bottom shock bolt , let the suspension sag. What's interesting is that there was no stress on the adjuster.

Check out the pictures... The bolt that was in there looks to be a grade 2 as opposed to the new one which is a grade 8. I'm no expert but looks to me that the ones I originally bought were junk...

Installed the new adjuster with gobs of copper anti seize compound, went in just fine..

Another lesson learned (the hard way!).

Going to tackle the other side tomorrow morning....

Thanks again for all the info, very much appreciated, you guys are the best!!

Joel

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So you cut both sides with the saws all?

 

[Joel Talka]

So you cut both sides with the saws all?

Yes, sawed the first side down, the second side up to get clearance....

 

[WileERobby]

Don't abuse your torque wrench like this. Use an impact guns (air/electric) or breaker bar to loosen/tighten bolts/nuts. A torque wrench can be damaged by using it to loosen fasteners. Also, always use a lubricant or anti-seize on threads, especially under a heavy torque situation so it won't gall like yours have done.

THIS !!! Key words :

use a lubricant or anti-seize on thread

Don't abuse your torque wrench

 

[Rebelrouser]

A while ago I was asking questions about torsion bar adjusters and came away with the conclusion that the ones I installed when I swapped the torsion bars and rebuilt the LCAs were junk. They went partially in and then refused to turn any more. So, I bought a new set which I went to install today. The old ones, both sides, refused to move. My 1/2' torque wrench could not loosen them. The impact wrench moved one of them a bit and then the bolt head snapped off. After a few choicer swear words, I took some pictures which are attached.

I think I basically have two options; Try to drill out the broken bolt or get a sawzall in there with a hack saw blade and carefully saw the adjuster base in two. But before I do anything I thought I would seek some advice..

At this point I have removed the wheel and UCA stop but that is it... Is it possible to remove the torsion bar while in this state?

Thanks as always!!

Joel

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Take the weight of the car off the adjuster, weld a nut on the end of the broken adjuster, dress the threads so you can screw the new nut on as far as possible before welding. Take a torch and heat the square block dull red and use an impact wrench to remove the adjuster. Make sure you do not heat the adjuster bolt just try and localize the heat in the square block. Burp the air gun and watch the adjuster, make sure it is spinning out and not twisting to break again. And the old saying goes you have to strike when the iron is hot. If the square block cools or transfers too much heat to the adjuster bolt let it cool and start again. Drilling is an option but a slow and difficult one. As mentioned the bolt is hard.

 

[Big bill]

Yes, sawed the first side down, the second side up to get clearance....

Ok thanks I have a car that is in the same boat .