Any thoughts about how to get this out?

[Joel Talka]

A while ago I was asking questions about torsion bar adjusters and came away with the conclusion that the ones I installed when I swapped the torsion bars and rebuilt the LCAs were junk. They went partially in and then refused to turn any more. So, I bought a new set which I went to install today. The old ones, both sides, refused to move. My 1/2' torque wrench could not loosen them. The impact wrench moved one of them a bit and then the bolt head snapped off. After a few choicer swear words, I took some pictures which are attached.

I think I basically have two options; Try to drill out the broken bolt or get a sawzall in there with a hack saw blade and carefully saw the adjuster base in two. But before I do anything I thought I would seek some advice..

At this point I have removed the wheel and UCA stop but that is it... Is it possible to remove the torsion bar while in this state?

Thanks as always!!

Joel

 

[R413]

A cutting torch is a good tool at this time. However your parts are clean and painted so that may not be what you want.

try some lubrication on the next set of bolts.

 

[Kern Dog]

Weld a nut on the end and crank it out.

 

[Sam69sat]

I'm pretty sure you know this but if not, you need to have the front wheels off the ground when tightening/loosening those adjuster bolts.

 

[zyzzyx]

Your best bet right now is to use a sawsall and split the square piece. It'll come out easily
and you won't damage anything else. Yes, you'll have to buy new ones, but just bite the bullet!
Anti-sieze on everything!!!!

 

[MCODECUDA]

The bolt is hardened and you won’t be able to drill or saw it out. You might be able to disconnect the lower ball joint from the spindle to relieve enough pressure off of the bar in order to remove the bar and the lower control arm. Make sure that you have a floor jack under the control arm when you do this. Once you have the control arm off you should be able to cut both ends of the adjuster bolt off with a torch in order to remove that plate.

 

[Kern Dog]

I'm pretty sure you know this but if not, you need to have the front wheels off the ground when tightening/loosening those adjuster bolts.

No, you don't. You think alignment techs do that when they set ride height?
I rarely ever lift the car to work the adjuster bolts. I've owned several of these cars and never broken a bolt once.

 

[AR67GTX]

Yep, thread a nut on about half way on the broken end and then weld inside the nut to the stud. Soak the hell out of it with penetrant and work the bolt out in increments to keep heat down and reduce the chance of galling and seizing.

 

[Joel Talka]

Your best bet right now is to use a sawsall and split the square piece. It'll come out easily
and you won't damage anything else. Yes, you'll have to buy new ones, but just bite the bullet!
Anti-sieze on everything!!!!

Thanks for the confirmation... I already have the new ones and was trying to remove the old ones to get the new ones in... I'm going to try the sawsall first. I'm not sure how hardened this stuff is but we will see. I would hate to have to take the front end apart for this but I will if there is no other option. I don't have a torch and my welding skills are not that great so I will work with what I have. Do you think a heat gun might help out on the other side (also stuck)?

For the record I always adjust the torsion bars with wheels off the ground. After the front end was rebuilt, he car sat on the lift for about a year waiting on a motor. When the motor went in the front end dropped, which is expected, so I went to raise it, socket and torque wrench, and the bolts would not budge after a turn or two. I didn't lube them but by the same token the car has never been on the road so there is no rust, dirt, etc.. I think I got these from YearOne....by way of China....

I guess the moral of this story is to buy your parts from the right suppliers!!

 

[Thrashingcows]

A heat gun will do a decent job and I've used one more than once when I didn't want to get fire in the area I was working on.

The fact that actually snapped off being the size they are is suprising...you shouldn't be able to snap one off with a 1/2" drive bar if it is clean like that....looks pretty soft to me and not much heat treatment or hardening.

 

[66 Sat]

No, you don't. You think alignment techs do that when they set ride height?
I rarely ever lift the car to work the adjuster bolts. I've owned several of these cars and never broken a bolt once.

You don't have to but it's good practice to have the weight of the car off the ground especially when tightening them, otherwise the threads are lifting the front end weight of the car. I think the stress on the threads is less when loosening them, as gravity is with you, but I still have a jack under the k frame taking the weight. On the original adjusters perhaps it's less of an issue as the bolts would be better quality but why risk it?

Following what alignment techs do is not exactly good advice, they wouldn't give a tin **** about your car.

 

[Kern Dog]

I agree that it is a good practice but I don’t believe it is absolutely necessary.
Lately I’ve had low tolerance for playing it safe when there is rarely a benefit from doing so.
Why? Because America.

 

[yella71]

You do realize that there is spring tension on that bolt dont you? think about that before you try anything to get it out,

 

[hdwrench]

a 1/2” impact might not be a good idea either , you have no feel when ur reaching the snap point , use a breaker bar or long handled ratchet , if it get real tuff to turn go in opposite direction, put on your favorite lube , now turn in (lower) the other direction, if all that fails it’s time to cut ….and as others said , when assembling use lube or better yet never - sneeze

 

[YY1]

If it were me, I'd look for an OEM set.

 

[hunt2elk]

You don't have to but it's good practice to have the weight of the car off the ground especially when tightening them, otherwise the threads are lifting the front end weight of the car. I think the stress on the threads is less when loosening them, as gravity is with you, but I still have a jack under the k frame taking the weight. On the original adjusters perhaps it's less of an issue as the bolts would be better quality but why risk it?

Following what alignment techs do is not exactly good advice, they wouldn't give a tin **** about your car.

Totally agree. I broke one several years ago while cranking up the front of my 69 Charger without jacking up the front end. Scared the $hit out of me, lucky I wasn't hurt....

 

[Joel Talka]

You do realize that there is spring tension on that bolt dont you? think about that before you try anything to get it out,

Yep, I do realize that.. But you know, even if I disassemble the front end and take the LCA out, I'm still going to cut the thing to get it out, probably the same on the other side as well...

 

[Joel Talka]

Does anyone make replacement LCAs? Might be easiest to just swap them out.

 

[kiwigtx]

Why? Because America.

That's not a reason....that's a state of mind.

Some serious heat on the square nut might help....as well as welding a nut on the broken stud.
A sawzall might cut one side of the nut - or if you can get a fresh cut-off disc on a grinder up there.

Also to answer the question at the top - any amount of tension on the torsion bar will prevent it's easy removal - you'll end up breaking more stuff in the process.

 

[Don Frelier]

If you still have the shock and bump stops installed it's not going to move very far if you cut it.
I'd put the tire on it and put a jack under the wheel as well if you're able.

A cutting torch or plasma cutter would be best.
But.
A new sawzall blade and cut the square plate in there I'd go 1/2 way through from each side if you can as that plate is loaded and might bind on the blade.
I think it would take less than 5 minutes.
It would need to be up fairly high (if your not using a lift) to get a sawzall in there.
Good thing you didn't weld on any stiffening plates on the bottom then you'd really have some work.