Anyone have experience with a dual disc clutch on the street?

[biomedtechguy]

Hydraulic throwouts have an internal spring. If you compress one on the bench it extends back to the end of it's range.

Additional benefit is it's always self adjusted for clutch wear.

Because of the spring/design, the bearing is in constant contact with the pressure plate. No way to achieve a gap and have it still function.

THANK YOU.
No matter how many times and ways I was told, it was the last time (before you) that suddenly made sense, BUT I struggled with the concept so badly I appreciate the reply...
So I'm good with that, and that actually adds even MORE value and functionality to the SUPERIORITY of a hydraulic throwout bearing/clutch system.
So I have one of the best (for my purposes now and once the 541 is under the hood) clutch systems available.
Yeah!

 

[biomedtechguy]

Not to hijack, so I'll be brief. I've been so held prisoner by a vacation house construction project, and my regular job that I have literally mourned not having leisure time, which I'd occupy driving, racing, tuning, and tweaking so much of the performance, race oriented, parts and systems that I paid a lot for, and $9,000 labor to have it all installed.
FINALLY the 3 years long vacation house construction project is almost finished, so soon I hope to get my HitMaster launch control and Assassin traction bars, and 4 Viking shocks dialed in. My 60ft times have kept me from breaking into the 12 second bracket, and I am BEYOND ready to hit the track and get it dialed in. I'm going to put my RXT dual disc clutch to the test!

 

[Cojohnso1]

This is well informative thread. And while the world was amazed with the growth of automatic transmission technology? I'm impressed with the evolution of the clutch? I'm using my first Diaphragm style 11" Centerforce. And so far? More than capable to a street 425HP 440. Back in the day. I remember diaphragm style clutch was a bit of a wimp compared to the rise of Borg/Beck spring design. But it's very satisfying seeing both designs evolution. Just viewing in the box looks space age compared to the choices in the 70s?

From my current understanding? Today's Diaphragm design pressure plate should out last spring design. But it looks as if we lose some scalability. Where spring is more adaptive. Disc(s) wear? Like always, that is more on the user's skill with the left foot. And of course driving habits of the right foot.

I have a bigger build of an E-body. And have been looking/researching multi disc Ram clutch designs. Now if I can find a manual transmission that can support 1000+ ft/lbs of torque? It does appear that multi disc clutch is easier on the transmission? By absorbing some of the micro burst of torque on hard launches. (Automatic trans does more seamlessly. Thus one of the reasons they can handle higher performance.)

 

[Sascha]

Hello!
I drive the dual disc clutch with a 470 stroker.
Previously I had 2 x centerforce dual friction. No comparison to the McLeod, which is worlds better. The operation is via hydraulics. The operation inside is done via a deflection which offers even more adjustment options and takes load from the firewall. Perfectly dosed, buttery but still tight enough for a good feedback.

 

[biomedtechguy]

The operation inside is done via a deflection which offers even more adjustment options and takes load from the firewall.

I'm looking at this pic you posted, and thinking how much nicer, more "solid", and less stressful to the firewall that must be:

My linkage to the hydraulic slave cylinder? is a compilation of parts, and ultimately just pushes a rod through a hole in the firewall. I'm not even sure how to adjust the "throw" that affects how much distance the rod moves the plunger in the slave cylinder. I know that distance is very important!
The way your linkage geometry is set up, all I can say is I have found "well known/reputable" and "skilled" people who have done work on my car, and my wife's GTO, and still leave me lacking or finding a setup like yours and saying "YES!" THAT is how it should be done!
Dang it!! I can learn, I love researching stuff, from parts and systems to installation techniques, but my body aches and my one man business is demanding, and so is my wife with the endless "honey-do" tasks.
I really enjoy learning through doing, and love the sensation of successfully completing mechanical work on my Roadrunner. I used to turn wrenches a LOT, and even changed out the starter on my 71 Charger R/T back in 78 by parking the front wheels on a curb, climbing under the car on my back in the street, and lifting the starter into position with both my arms over my head!
My wife and I want one of these 3 bay metal buildings to use as a garage, with a 2 post lift in the center bay.
I'm just concerned I won't be able to make the most of its capabilities.
Like this, but with 3 roll up doors:

 

[Hemirunner]

I ran the 3 finger Long style of that dual disc clutch behind my hemi for 6 years before switching to a 727.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I ran the 3 finger Long style of that dual disc clutch behind my hemi for 6 years before switching to a 727.

SELLOUT!!

Just Kidding...

 

[Hemirunner]

SELLOUT!!

Just Kidding...

I did! I went to a state of confusion with a full manual “automatic” lol

 

[Sascha]

I'm looking at this pic you posted, and thinking how much nicer, more "solid", and less stressful to the firewall that must be:View attachment 1203118
My linkage to the hydraulic slave cylinder? is a compilation of parts, and ultimately just pushes a rod through a hole in the firewall. I'm not even sure how to adjust the "throw" that affects how much distance the rod moves the plunger in the slave cylinder. I know that distance is very important!
The way your linkage geometry is set up, all I can say is I have found "well known/reputable" and "skilled" people who have done work on my car, and my wife's GTO, and still leave me lacking or finding a setup like yours and saying "YES!" THAT is how it should be done!
Dang it!! I can learn, I love researching stuff, from parts and systems to installation techniques, but my body aches and my one man business is demanding, and so is my wife with the endless "honey-do" tasks.
I really enjoy learning through doing, and love the sensation of successfully completing mechanical work on my Roadrunner. I used to turn wrenches a LOT, and even changed out the starter on my 71 Charger R/T back in 78 by parking the front wheels on a curb, climbing under the car on my back in the street, and lifting the starter into position with both my arms over my head!
My wife and I want one of these 3 bay metal buildings to use as a garage, with a 2 post lift in the center bay.
I'm just concerned I won't be able to make the most of its capabilities.
Like this, but with 3 roll up doors:
View attachment 1203129

Thank you very much!
I also had before simply a direct connection from the pedal to the master cylinder. The problem was that it caused a lot of side load on the master cylinder due to the elliptical movement of the pedal. This caused abrasion and at high temparaturen jamming and noise.
I have changed the whole thing several times and tried different angles.
It was never good.
What I have installed here is a modified kit from modern driveline for a Mustang;).
You can find it here:

https://www.moderndriveline.com/sho...ang-lf-series-hyd-clutch-master-kit-700-bore/

I worked with 3 different cylinders, .625" bore, .700" and .750".
I ended up going with the .700" in conjunction with a longer homemade actuating lever. I swapped the supplied ball heads for sturdier ones and built a small reinforcement plate for the outside of the firewall.

Due to the longer lever, there is a lot of load on the lower suspension point of the lever, which I will soon support upwards.

Attached are some more pictures.
If you have any questions just write me.

 

[Hemirunner]

^^^ Very nice work!

 

[Sascha]

^^^ Very nice work!

Thanks!