• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Anyone have experience with a dual disc clutch on the street?

Beekeeper

It’s a disease without a cure!
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
7:00 AM
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Messages
4,726
Reaction score
4,875
Location
Rogersville,TN.
Been looking for a clutch for my 69’ bee it has an 18 spline gear box behind a 496 hemi stroker. This will be a street driven car and currently has a 8.75 with 3.91 gear. I came across
this clutch in the link below and I don’t have any experience with a dual disc clutch and don’t have any idea how they behave on the street.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-6911-05
 
Excellent. Once you get it figured out on yours, you can help me put one in Fred. :thumbsup:
 
I have that clutch in my car. Smooth as glass.

Have used many McLeod twins in previous cars as well and they all work great.
 
I have that clutch in my car. Smooth as glass.

Have used many McLeod twins in previous cars as well and they all work great.

Do you have a 143 tooth flywheel and the 10.5 diameter discs?
 
Mine is awesome! AWESOME!
(so far)
I am embarrassed, saddened, and lately angry with moments of desperate sorrow because of how little I've been able to drive my Roadrunner in the last 15 months because of so MANY damned obligations.
I have had 2 different McLeod single disc clutch and pressure plate combos, BOTH with very heavy pressure, in the 2,900 pound range. I wanted very strong clamping force, but WOW, it was really hard on my old knee. The first was a Borg and Beck 3 finger design, but it failed, and McLeod actually discontinued that model due to failures (is my understanding). I went to a diaphragm style w/2,950 pounds of clamping force, and it was smoother and a little easier to use, but still pretty brutal in stop and go traffic.
One of a multitude of mostly drag racing oriented modifications I had made to my car last year was a HitMaster launch control. I had to have a hydraulic throwout bearing installed in order to use that particular launch control system, BUT I was really leaning towards getting a hydraulic clutch anyway because I figured it would be easier on my beat up achy body.
So it was a good time to look at my "forever" clutch and pressure plate. What I mean is the basic design and layout that wouldn't hasten my need of a wheelchair, walker, or cane to get around, or knee replacement surgery, (I'm exaggerating a little, but some days I really hurt bad)
AND a clutch setup that would be in the TOP TIER of performance for a street/strip car.
I discussed my setup with McLeod, the subframe connectors, Assassin traction bars, chrome moly driveshaft and solid 1350 U-joints with the factory Dana 60 out back, my current warmed over 440 6bbl, and my future Bill Mitchell aluminum block based 541 stroker I have planned, with 700 ft lbs torque as my goal. I also discussed the HitMaster launch control. They recommended the RXT dual disc clutch for me, because of the heat and friction that the 1½ second or so of intense use it would see with the launch control. The RXT uses a ceramic metallic friction material on the discs, and that can handle that kind of intense heat and friction.
I had to break it in for around 450 miles or so as recommended. NO problem during that period other than the car wanted to move forward slightly as though the clutch wasn't fully disengaged, BUT with the hydraulic throwout bearing being new to my setup, and a LOT of other additions and modifications, and lots of phone calls to various tech support folks, the shop that did all the work, and my eyeballs on it on a lift...the problem went away on its own! I guess it may have been something that had to break in? Honestly I don't know what caused that one issue nor what fixed it, but I never have had any "I wish..." or "If only..." moments with the dual disc McLeod. A few times I may get a teeny bit of chatter slipping the clutch, but that's rare and mainly from me not driving it more.
Bottom line?
Unless you need a ceramic metallic friction material, the RST from McLeod is going to be the FINEST clutch you've EVER used! Even though they are powerful performers and have a great deal of gripping force when you want to transfer power vs lose power, they are silky smooth and have an amazingly light pedal feel!!
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!
 
Do you have a 143 tooth flywheel and the 10.5 diameter discs?
In my case, I have a 130 tooth flywheel (billet steel from Brewers) and it uses the "scalloped" 11" pressure plate w/10½" disc. At least I think that's how that works.
 
Do you have a 143 tooth flywheel and the 10.5 diameter discs?

I have a McLeod 143 tooth flywheel. My clutch part number is 6911-07 which has 9.688 discs (I believe all RST/RXT do) but 26 spline hub for Tremec trans.
 
In my case, I have a 130 tooth flywheel (billet steel from Brewers) and it uses the "scalloped" 11" pressure plate w/10½" disc. At least I think that's how that works.

I have a McLeod 143 tooth flywheel. My clutch part number is 6911-07 which has 9.688 discs (I believe all RST/RXT do) but 26 spline hub for Tremec trans.

I’m guessing by biomedtech’s post above the pedal effort with these is comfortable and my knee will thank me?
 
I’m using a hydraulic setup and it’s light effort. I don’t think you’ll find anything capable of holding the same amount of power with a lighter pedal
 
the pedal effort with these is comfortable and my knee will thank me?
The broad consensus has always been "light pedal effort" of a dual disc clutch system, along with the other benefits. I'd imagine you could have light pedal effort with a stock pp or some wimpy substitute.
Honestly, I may have been going way overboard with the 2 single disc PP units at appx 2,900 pounds, but the clutch that was on my Roadrunner when I bought it slipped once or twice, and I was determined to not have that happen again.
It's been maybe 3 years since I had that Borg and Beck McLeod fail, but wouldn't you know, the finger and its associated parts that failed did it on the short ride home from an excellent front end alignment shop, well versed in "old school" suspension design, where I was getting it "tweaked" and safety checked because our Big Easy Mopar club's annual track (¼ mile) day was that weekend. Yeah, the B&B finger/hardware failing gave me "the finger"!:icon_fU: I missed the races!!:mad:
Anyway, look at related videos, including a short one by McLeod on getting the discs/plates aligned.
You will absolutely LOVE the setup, providing it's done properly, like anything else really.
 
Is this the hydraulic setup you guys are using?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-hmch01201g
I'd say YES, if you have the 18 spline 833. I have that transmission, but I have my Passon Performance 855 Five Speed in my Roadrunner with all that stuff installed.
I have noticed in my case and other Mopar 833 owners that getting the proper spacing of the throwout bearing relative to the face of the transmission input shaft bearing retainer (the 'snout') or the front side of the case, and the flywheel, basically getting the proper distance that the throwout bearing would normally require as a gap when the clutch is released can be challenging. Even though I asked a half dozen times about this, I was assured that the hydraulic throwout bearing is designed to lightly ride on the disc springs (diaphragm style). Now for a regular throwout bearing that would mean an early death, wearing out the bearings from having it spin all the time. It wasn't until a 3rd party explained that modern manual transmissions and their almost exclusively hydraulic clutch systems are also designed for constant contact with the throwout bearing, and that customers really like the "no slack" response, there's no "slop" or delay when there's no gap.
Now don't go by what I'm saying about that, I still fear a prematurely worn out throwout bearing, and that there may be a grand conspiracy where the word spread and "they" all want to see me suffer in that way.
Follow the installation instructions and ask around yourself. The BEST bet is to find someone who installed a dual disc clutch and a hydraulic throwout bearing and has had long term success with the installation.

Maybe y'all can chime in on the hydraulic throwout bearing and yours spins all the time too? I may finally believe that's true and can sleep in peace again...lol.
 
The dual disk clutch always interested me, ever since they were factory optional on 1971 and 1972 Olds 442 cars. Easier to shift and less slippage seems like a good combo to me.
 
they were factory optional on 1971 and 1972 Olds 442 cars.
I didn't know that, never heard of that at all.
Any links??
I will never forget a "matching" pair of 1970 Oldsmobile 442+W30 cars that ran at the track (purpose built for ther class, which I'd have to guess was some hot "stock" class, drag slicks and roll bars HOT, with those factory "quick gear change" rear axles. The center chunk had an oval shaped heavy duty looking section on the rear that facilitated the gear change.
This was mid to late 1970s
 
I know a guy who changed to the McLeod dual disc.....he says much better than a Centreforce.
Running stroked 440.
 
I have that exact same McLeod twin disc in my 69 Bee and like it. I have heard they are a soft compound and don't last long, but can't verify that. I have about 2000 miles on it. 493 stroker, McLeod 143 tooth 11" flywheel, 18 spline trans, stock clutch linkage setup.
Both Jamie Passon and Dan Brewer recommended this clutch for my car.
 
Last edited:
Maybe y'all can chime in on the hydraulic throwout bearing and yours spins all the time too? I may finally believe that's true and can sleep in peace again...lol.

Hydraulic throwouts have an internal spring. If you compress one on the bench it extends back to the end of it's range.

Additional benefit is it's always self adjusted for clutch wear.

Because of the spring/design, the bearing is in constant contact with the pressure plate. No way to achieve a gap and have it still function.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top