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Are you ready for a real weird one? Random NO spark from a MP electronic ignition system despite numerous parts swapped around...

Hopefully when Kern Dog gives us weekly or monthly updates on his ignition system progress , he won’t bee soliciting his latest skin care products at the same time
Or he could get a job advertising Pillows - strap them around your body when doing work on the roof. :lol:

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Since this issue was a random one, it may take awhile to know if cleaning the terminals had any effect. I'd sometimes go months between episodes of this. That is one of the reasons why it has been hard for me to fix....I'd swap a coil or ECU and it would start, then be fine for awhile.
See posts #45 and #46


Post in thread 'Are you ready for a real weird one? Random NO spark from a MP electronic ignition system despite numerous parts swapped around...' Are you ready for a real weird one? Random NO spark from a MP electronic ignition system despite numerous parts swapped around...
 
I read in this mornings paper that my local Dodge dealers were desperate to unload the slow moving hybrid Hornet cars and were offering unreal trade in values on almost anything. I called a tow truck and had the Charger hauled in for appraisal.






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Nah…..
I went and bought this stuff:

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I squeezed some into the terminals in the firewall and the rectangle plugs.

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It starts up like normal but hopefully time will tell if a problem returns.
This coil had a reading of 1.3 for resistance, which is in the target at least according to what Rich Ehrenberg writes. I tested other coils in the shed and most were in that range but a Mopar Performance one was .7. You’d think they would not step outside of their own engineers guidelines but maybe the blame there lies with the Chinese boy that made it ??
Again, I appreciate all those that popped in to help. As always, I learned a few things and was reminded of some things I knew but hadn’t considered.
Cheers to you all.
 
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Just for grins….
THIS car:

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Has an MSD Blaster coil that has .6 reading. According to RE…

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The ECM will be destroyed!

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E-booger is not completely wrong.. ecu's will be destroyed from "I don't need a ballast resistor!!"
But not from " the resistance of my coil is .2 off!!"

Definitely my opinion. And I'm not scared to go on a trip with an aftermarket coil.
But not without a functioning resistor.
 
E-booger is not completely wrong.. ecu's will be destroyed from "I don't need a ballast resistor!!"
But not from " the resistance of my coil is .2 off!!"

Definitely my opinion. And I'm not scared to go on a trip with an aftermarket coil.
But not without a functioning resistor.
Make sure you get a coil that is rated for the ecu there are a ton of different ones. ,3 .7 1.0 1.5 3.0 etc
 
Intermittent electrical issues are very difficult to diagnose. If you can make it act up or it happens with regularity, its a bit easier. Otherwise, you just keep throwing parts at it until something fixes it or you carefully test each component and all the wiring and grounds and correct anything that is suspect.
 
Ha...I DO deserve that.
I'm indestructible, man. Nobody can break me but ME and I don't stay broken for long.
There comes a time when it all adds up....your body will let you know about it once you hit that older age.
 
I disagree. I have never had a meter that showed zero on the lead test - and I don't buy cheap junk. My latest Fluke 179 shows at best 0.1 ohms on the leads test....and this meter cost me about $1,000 just last year.

:xscuseless:


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My Fluke 87 will zero out and I know it didn't cost a grand. It is about 10 years old. Sometimes it will read .1 or .3 like yours but if I push the Rel button it will zero out. I see you meter is configured different than mine but you should be able to calibrate it somehow. Second pic is after I pushed the Relative button.

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Eureka, I just had an info dump. The problem is that darn P/B booster!!!?
 
Hey, I tried running manual brakes but just couldn't generate enough force with it. Way off topic but the OEM style dual diaphragm unit made all the difference.
 
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