At what point did NEW lifters become junk out of the box and were.......
- Thread starter Cranky
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Lubrication may not be the issue in the majority of cases but it is worth attention.
I put a '528 solid in my 440/493 in 2014. It had the Howards EDM lifters. For years I ran Royal Purple, then Valvoline VR1 with a bottle of Comp Cams break in supplement. Early 2022, I switched to a synthetic that supposedly had "added zinc". I didn't drive it all that much until the 950 mile trip to Southern CA and back in May. Just over a week after that trip, the cam shed several lobes with 10 total going bad after closer inspection.
The parts did not change. My driving habits didn't either. The only change was to the bullshit oil...
But...it has EXTRA ZDDP !
Unfortunately, the high detergent found in oil with this API label...
Meant that whatever ZDDP was in the oil was not going to stick to anything since the oil was high detergent.
Lesson learned there. The right oil absolutely matters.
I put a '528 solid in my 440/493 in 2014. It had the Howards EDM lifters. For years I ran Royal Purple, then Valvoline VR1 with a bottle of Comp Cams break in supplement. Early 2022, I switched to a synthetic that supposedly had "added zinc". I didn't drive it all that much until the 950 mile trip to Southern CA and back in May. Just over a week after that trip, the cam shed several lobes with 10 total going bad after closer inspection.
The parts did not change. My driving habits didn't either. The only change was to the bullshit oil...
But...it has EXTRA ZDDP !
Unfortunately, the high detergent found in oil with this API label...
Meant that whatever ZDDP was in the oil was not going to stick to anything since the oil was high detergent.
Lesson learned there. The right oil absolutely matters.
Geoff 2
Well-Known Member
Lake Speed, the Motor Oil Geek, has interesting videos on oil...& zinc. It is about 20 min, maybe somebody can link it. Oil with 1200ppm Zinc was used with FT cam, no issues.
Then a Zinc 'supplement' with 3600 ppm Zinc was added to the oil. Cam/lifters failed soon afterwards.
Moral of the story: get the correct oil & do not add supplements which can & will destroy the sensitive chemical oil package.
Then a Zinc 'supplement' with 3600 ppm Zinc was added to the oil. Cam/lifters failed soon afterwards.
Moral of the story: get the correct oil & do not add supplements which can & will destroy the sensitive chemical oil package.
Unkle Krusty
Well-Known Member
I have to inspect my 318. But, the switch to solid lifters involves? I will assume the solid lifters replace the hydraulic units. Now there must be some form of adjustment. I switched to adjustable pushrods earlier. However I think that is not the answer. So there must be some other changes to be made to the rocker, and the new rocker has the adjustment.
And, is there any more noise from this arrangement?
A steady tapping from all the rockers, would be more acceptable than the single ticking sound that I now have.
And, is there any more noise from this arrangement?
A steady tapping from all the rockers, would be more acceptable than the single ticking sound that I now have.
padam
Well-Known Member
You need adjustable rocker arms and the proper push rods, so it’s not cheap.
Many a little noisy but not more than the Rhoads hydraulic lifters I was using before. Just get louder mufflers.
Geoff 2
Well-Known Member
No you don't need adj rockers arms. You can use adj push rods. Isky cams make a large range. Price difference between the prods & adj rockers might be close, but you will still need p'rods. Keep the lash to 0.006-8" hot & you will have very little noise, plus these benefits:
- lifters cannot bleed down
- lifters cannot pump up
- lifters cannot bleed down
- lifters cannot pump up
Unkle Krusty
Well-Known Member
Thank you Geoff. I have adjustable pushrods. They are a bit thicker than the stock units. 5/16 and 1/4 from memory.
My plan was to adjust them with the inlet manifold removed. That would allow a bit more room. I will remove tne manifold to remove the hydraulic lifters, and inspect the cam.
My plan was to adjust them with the inlet manifold removed. That would allow a bit more room. I will remove tne manifold to remove the hydraulic lifters, and inspect the cam.
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Us Mopar people aren't the only ones...
She ate her pigs! My guess is that something other than the lifter crown is at fault here.
70runner
Well-Known Member
Not to hijack, but have apparent lifter bleed down issue, cold startup clatter. 440-6, lunati 60303/lifters, SRP 10.5:1 forged pistons, steath heads, stock 1.5 rockers, Manton 3/8 pushrods. Tried slightly longer pushrods, + .030. Clatter went away for awhile but returned. Assuming 1 or more bleed down issues, what would you guys recommend? Replace only bad lifters, new full lifter set from lunati, new cam/lifter package or?
If you go bumpstick/lifter package, check into Howards offerings. Specifically their Max Certified line. I'm going to use one of those for my 440
Howards_2021.qxp_2005Howardscurrent vers .QXD4 copy 6/24/24 9:49 AM Page 6
*
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The Adcole is the premier measurement equipment for camshafts in the
world. So you know you’re getting the finest camshaft for your applica-
tion available. Each set includes a performance hydraulic camshaft, a
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what happens if you still have a cam damaging event?...You’re
Covered! We will replace your Max Certified Cam & Lifter Set at no
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pletely fill out the supplied warranty card and return along with your
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Isn’t it time to make a real performance change to your engine? With
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most kits available with Direct Lube lifters.
* Max Certified warranty applies to Max Certified Cam & Lifter Sets only. Max Certified 5 year
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camshaft and lifter set only. Warranty does not cover removal/installation cost, damage to relat-
ed components, cost incurred due to down time, towing or shipping.
HEMIB
Well-Known Member
Had the same issue with Elgin from summit lasted 20 minutes only 2 looked like those pictured , good oil ,well lubed ,straight to 2,000rpm
Krooser
Well-Known Member
Chevies had an
issue with the cam tunnels being machined off center.
Ron Neal, former owner of Protype Racing Engines, would look over Chevy cores and reject 8 out of ten. This was before aftermarket blocks.
Krooser
Well-Known Member
Howards sells HyLift Johnson lifters
b-body-bob
Well-Known Member
I bought a set of lifters from them within the past year that were not Johnson lifters. The set prior to that were Johnson's.
The first set clattered like a SOB at start-up due to bleeding off, so I replaced them with the second set and it did the same. I have to remember to not rev the engine until the OP builds up and the noise shuts up.
Unkle Krusty
Well-Known Member
I retrieved my old lifters that ran about 60,000 miles.
15 of them I could not compress by pushing down with a philips screw driver. One I could compress about 1/4 of an inch. I suspect I will find one or more of the new lifters have the same problem. The fuel pump is new, and was used before I put in the new stuff. It is not a suspect at the moment.
15 of them I could not compress by pushing down with a philips screw driver. One I could compress about 1/4 of an inch. I suspect I will find one or more of the new lifters have the same problem. The fuel pump is new, and was used before I put in the new stuff. It is not a suspect at the moment.
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