At what point do you feel the a stock brake setup is not enough ??

64fury74charger

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Brakes are always an important factor and everybody has their own driving style. Some years ago I had a real healthy 65 Sport Satellite that was dual duty with mostly daily driving.
Stock manual 10” drums but I put Velvet Touch racing shoes on all 4 corners. They were pricey on my budget but wow did those brakes work. The hotter the better and no fading. Great wet or dry conditions.
My 64 Sport Fury has been updated to disc all around and stops real nice.
 

philcollins

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I run stock front disc/rear drum on mt 1972 Satellite.They are ok on the street and will outrun tires. My weakest link are the tire, not much grip.
Make nosense to me to upgrade to something bigger.
 

dvw

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NHRA requires a chute @ 9.99ET OR 135 MPH Trap Speed.
It’s 150 mph. Mine runs very close to that. I may have to get one. Really don’t want to. Stops good at any track I’ve been to. 4 wheel Willwood. The factory disc/drum works fine to at least 130 mph, just heavy.
Doug
 
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33 IMP

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I do believe in NHRA et racing youcan go 150 mph before needing a chute, and as for brakes it depends a lot on the track and shutdown area we have one track here that is so long you hardly need any brakes and other ones you need a lot of brake on. IMO
The individual tracks can tighten up requirements for their tracks, tighter than general nhra requirements. When Carlsbad was running (san Diego area) their shutdown was so short, they required a chute at (i believe) 130 or 135. I believe they even required it's USE, over 135.
 
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70chall440

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In many instances I firmly believe that stock disc/drum brakes are fully adequate for street use so long as they are in good shape and have decent components. The disc/disc thing has become a status or bling issue for most and has very little to do with improving the braking. Too many people are just throwing parts at their cars to develop a "look" or are doing it because that what they see every one else do.

I am not saying that a disc/disc setup isn't effective or perhaps even warranted but what I am saying is that far too many people are removing a perfectly good well engineered SYSTEM and replacing it with a litany of parts that look the part rather than act as a system correctly. Then they wonder why their brakes don't work. Wilwood has made a lot of money off of this effort bc many of the high end builds feature their brakes.

Point here is this, if you want "better" brakes than you need to source a system that is designed to provide the performance you are looking for. Truth be told, in probably 80% or more of the people who want 4WD brakes have done nothing to improve or even maintain what they have. Rebuild a stock system and use good pads and shoes and you will be very surprised what they can do.

I have installed 4WD on a number of cars to include some of my own, but I readily admit that in most cases it is not for an improved braking system, rather it is for the "look". Not saying they don't work because they do, but I am saying they are not a huge upgrade to a street car. The next 2 cars I am building will have Hydroboost systems which I am looking forward to using.
 

33 IMP

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I will say this.... at my local 1/8th, my 97mph car with drums all around will NEVER make the first turnout, I have to be careful to get it slowed down for the last. (There's only two)
My 110mph car could get down for the first turn, with ancient oem girling discs on the front, and JFZ's on the back.
 

67charger383

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Manual 10in drums on the Charger. Should be a low 12/high 11 car when its done.

Not chancing it on the blown pro street Challenger. Willwood lightweight drag racing disks up front with 4 piston calipers.

Haven't run it yet but should be DEEP into the 9s
 

Dodge 330

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I did the Wilwood discs up front for weight loss as well as better braking and the ability to change pads in just a few minutes. They work great on the street and strip. I also did the later dual bail master cylinder. It comes down from 133 mph passes in the quarter with zero issues.

I'm always perplexed by people that will spend all kinds of money for engine go-fast parts but negelect the braking system or ask "what's the cheapest brakes...".

I try to be as easy on mine as possible and often use the second return road. I've had to hammer them a couple of times on the street to avoid stupid people and was glad I had excellent brakes.
 

bm02tj

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The only advantage disks have is they will take more heat before fade
Proper sized drums are safe with a good driver
 

66Satellite47

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I guess I never thought the need to use the first turnoff at any track, again drag race only cars, except my current '66 Satellite which can be street driven. The Satellite has manual early '70's discs with 10" drums rear. Stops pretty good at the track, and good on the street. Never had to do any panic stops on the street though.
 

cosgig

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I run the stock 11” manual drum setup on my 6bbl Roadrunner. I’m well adept at running drum brake cars, I’ve had a bunch over the years. I like the feel of the car the way it came, and am very comfortable with that, even during “spirited” driving episodes. I also have manual steering, I like to feel the road! Never saw the need to upgrade.
 

gregsdart

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As my a body got faster over the years, I upgraded. First to Wildwood fronts at 10.20s/131mph, 3200 lbs, then to Wildwoods on both ends somewhere in the mid nines. I now run 154 mph at 3020 lbs, Wildwoods on front and back. Parachute has never seen the light of day in 18 years. Last outing I noticed easy lockup of the front tires so I need to add more braking power in the back. I plan to call Wilwood and see what can be done to balance the system better. I have no proportioning valve in the system since I have 25x4 up front and 33x15 in back. I thought that would be ok, but turns out to be too much braking up front .
 

Gunner1

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As my a body got faster over the years, I upgraded. First to Wildwood fronts at 10.20s/131mph, 3200 lbs, then to Wildwoods on both ends somewhere in the mid nines. I now run 154 mph at 3020 lbs, Wildwoods on front and back. Parachute has never seen the light of day in 18 years. Last outing I noticed easy lockup of the front tires so I need to add more braking power in the back. I plan to call Wilwood and see what can be done to balance the system better. I have no proportioning valve in the system since I have 25x4 up front and 33x15 in back. I thought that would be ok, but turns out to be too much braking up front .
They make a sweet adjustable valve that goes inline into your front system. No need to upgrade the rears if they will slide your slicks too. If not then an upgrade would be in order.
 

gregsdart

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Gunner, never locked up the rears, just fronts. But it would make sense to use a bit more of the available rear braking.
 

dvw

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I have a proportioning valve in the front system per Mark Williams. Drag cars have very little tread surface on the front. Completely different proportioning than street or road race.
Doug
 

383man

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I still run the stock power drum brakes on my 63. I did go to a dual Master Cyl of course and it stops ok from 10.70's best at almost 125. And its 3700 lbs before I get in it. Ron
 

Budnicks

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like govt. work ? oh, It's good enough

IMO above 120mph in the 1/4, you should upgrade
even a street/strip car at them speeds
(especially if you don't use a chute to slow you down before getting on the binders,
like pros always do
)
& IMHFO when it comes to safety, take or or leave it I don't care
you should always do above & beyond what you think you will need
you will never regret having a better brake system

you don't have to break the bank either
there's OE systems, Disc or larger better drums
that will do better than any 9" or 10" drum (that's nucken' futs on a racecar)
easily, whether you need it or not

when you need it, they will be there

use a proportioning valve too
either an adjustable or
even a good factory one/new designed for your application
Drum Drum, Disc drum or Disc Disc

I like a good brake system on my cars
especially street/strip cars, more so up here in the
windy ass country roads, steep hills & valleys
& no brake fade or crazy heat, with at a min. front disc
vs even the big ass drums factory HD 11" x 3" fronts on a RR

on a dedicated racecar, it's mandatory for me
I budget for it

some people are just cheap, period
it's not a place to skimp, or to be cheap

Lets see;
You'll spend a fortune building the cars;
maybe $10k+ paint & body, or far more time & efforts
let alone the price of buying the car to begin with
thousands on engine rotating assembly/machine work etc.,
thousands more on cylinder heads, porting, roller camshaft (if you go all out),
thousands more on induction systems/fuel system/carbs or FI
thousands more on trans, converter/clutch, rear end, suspension,
the driveshaft, adj. shocks, the seats ignition & cage
thousands of dollars more in wheels & tires,
to all be bulletproof etc.
& yet you go the cheapest shit with brakes ?
(that's not a question it more a rhetorical statement) :realcrazy:

good brakes have saved my ass many times,
so has a good chute or 2
& I've been 6.69 @ 217 in a full-bodied (with ballast) 2800# car,
been 5.97 @ 227 in a RE/TA Dragster
I've been on fire @ 140-180mph (more than once)
& I was certainly glad I had great brakes (good chute/s)

it's your life, do what you think is 'the best risk of it'
what's that price worth ?
at what point is it worth it ?
you only have 1 life

carry on
 
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Gunner1

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My concern has always been not if I can stop in the run off area. But what happens if someone crosses the centerline in front of me at buck twenty. I have a road race background so I think of brakes as part of the total package and plan for the worst case's.
 

383man

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like govt. work ? oh, It's good enough

IMO above 120mph in the 1/4, you should upgrade
even a street/strip car at them speeds
(especially if you don't use a chute to slow you down before getting on the binders,
like pros always do
)
& IMHFO when it comes to safety, take or or leave it I don't care
you should always do above & beyond what you think you will need
you will never regret having a better brake system

you don't have to break the bank either
there's OE systems, Disc or larger better drums
that will do better than any 9" or 10" drum (that's nucken' futs on a racecar)
easily, whether you need it or not

when you need it, they will be there

use a proportioning valve too
either an adjustable or
even a good factory one/new designed for your application
Drum Drum, Disc drum or Disc Disc

I like a good brake system on my cars
especially street/strip cars, more so up here in the
windy ass country roads, steep hills & valleys
& no brake fade or crazy heat, with at a min. front disc
vs even the big ass drums factory HD 11" x 3" fronts on a RR

on a dedicated racecar, it's mandatory for me
I budget for it

some people are just cheap, period
it's not a place to skimp, or to be cheap

Lets see;
You'll spend a fortune building the cars;
maybe $10k+ paint & body, or far more time & efforts
let alone the price of buying the car to begin with
thousands on engine rotating assembly/machine work etc.,
thousands more on cylinder heads, porting, roller camshaft (if you go all out),
thousands more on induction systems/fuel system/carbs or FI
thousands more on trans, converter/clutch, rear end, suspension,
the driveshaft, adj. shocks, the seats ignition & cage
thousands of dollars more in wheels & tires,
to all be bulletproof etc.
& yet you go the cheapest shit with brakes ?
(that's not a question it more a rhetorical statement) :realcrazy:

good brakes have saved my ass many times,
so has a good chute or 2
& I've been 6.69 @ 217 in a full-bodied (with ballast) 2800# car,
been 5.97 @ 227 in a RE/TA Dragster
I've been on fire @ 140-180mph (more than once)
& I was certainly glad I had great brakes (good chute/s)

it's your life, do what you think is 'the best risk of it'
what's that price worth ?
at what point is it worth it ?
you only have 1 life

carry on


Well the truth is I am cheap as I have no choice. After buying my wife out of my house when I got divorced in 2009 I got real bad joint problems with fibromylagia and my pain got so bad I could not work as an auto tech any more. And I basically live on pain meds today but it took me broke when I had to stop working and then finally go on disability. I can still do a little but cant stay on my feet long and cant work while taking pain meds during the day. But I am surviving and still happy as I have my 63 and that makes my day. I agree its always best to upgrade the brakes and I was going to go to disc up front but when all this happened money ran out so I figured they drove and raced them in the 60's on these brakes. And in all honestly I do not street race and just drive normal on the street and the car stops ok with the factory power drum brakes. And it actually stops pretty good from 125 mph at the track but I would not go any faster without updating to better brakes as if I can ever afford it I will upgrade. What work is to much for me my son can do so we still do all our own work on our cars but living on just disability I just dont have any spare cash to often. Being I was an auto tech & shop Foreman at a Dodge dealer most of my life I have no pension and what little 401k I had my ex got half and I had to use the rest to live on while getting on to disability. Anyway I do agree with you but will have to wait until my funds let me at least go to disc up front. Oh and I did not spend a fortune building my 63 as it was done on a tight budget as I had no choice. Ron
 

Gunner1

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Yup I am in the same situation. Still married but rated 100% disabled by the VA. Back and knees are shot. At 74 I’m lucky I still am active I’m going slow on mine too. If you have buddies then have pizza and beer parties and have them work on the car. I’ve built motors all my life. So I can tell my buddies what to do. It works out for me. Heck I kept all my porting tools so I’m planning on whittling away at a set of aluminum heads and save on the big CNC bills. Good luck on your build.
 
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