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AVS Carter Carb

It is the rite carb for your car as i have the same one n a R/TSE 69 CHARGER but ive never experenced any problems like your describing,i would think as my best guess as being dirt inside or just bad gas
 
It is the rite carb for your car as i have the same one n a R/TSE 69 CHARGER but ive never experenced any problems like your describing,i would think as my best guess as being dirt inside or just bad gas

Although my mechanic friend and I have nick named this car "VooDoo Child" (Just an example, the vacuum headlight covers worked perfect in the parking lot, then wouldn't in the function test with judges present) the gas thing might be the reason and the simplest to do. I make a point to get my 93 from the same Shell station and I treat it with Stabil in the winter. Sometimes I have a lot going on and it takes some discussion like this to remember that the last time I had this problem I started using fuel treatment after putting gas in it. I have more than one car and they all do different stuff.

Headlight covers - usually they work passenger side, drivers side. You'll think I'm nuts but one time I'm watching them close and they worked in reverse.
 
The major carb difference between cars with auto trans and std trans are primary booster venturii as ALL idle and off idle fuel originates in the boosters. In addition, the metering rods are different size in the down position. The metering rods and jets control the fuel delivery when the boosters are feeding fuel; but idle fuel originates in the boosters thru fixed fuel and air restrictions and of course the mixture screws. Carbs used with A/C equipped cars have a thermostatic controlled air bleed to elevate an over rich mixture due to hot under hood temps.
I've seen both 69 & 68 models with the single idle mixture screw. This is about the same time as the "off idle air bleed" appeared to elevate a leaner off idle transition due to increasing emission requirements, in addition to altered distributor advance characteristics. Sometimes, a dashpot (manual trans) or a anti-diesel solenoid was also included...on '69 - '70 + models. Not sure that answered your questions.
BOB RENTON


Took it for a drive today and put gas and treatment in it. It may have helped a little but the tach is showing 500rpm or less which I think is too low - had a lot of stalling in reverse putting it back in the garage. Had to two foot it. Otherwise, it ran great.
 
Tear it down, compressed air in both directions in every hole there is. Doesn't take much crap to screw up a carb.
 
Took it for a drive today and put gas and treatment in it. It may have helped a little but the tach is showing 500rpm or less which I think is too low - had a lot of stalling in reverse putting it back in the garage. Had to two foot it. Otherwise, it ran great.

Your issues MAY be attributable to stale gas and/or the "treatment" added. My RS23V0A GTX exhibits similar issues coming out of storage. My storage "cocktail" is a mixture of a pint can of Stabil, dry gas, 3 gallons of Sunoco 110 octane leaded race gas balance of 93 octane pump gas. The car lopes and stumbles until the cocktail gets thru the system. With 4.10 gears, it doesn't take too long too use up the mix.
The Carter AVS carb is susceptible to dirt and crud in the idle air bleeds and fuel feed orifices located in the primary booster venturii. To effectively clean the crud, the carb needs to be disassembled and the booster venturii removed and cleaned with a good aerosol cleaner and compressed air and reassembled using new gaskets. The Holley carbs on the GTX develop similar issues in the center carb's metering block which needs to be disassembled and cleaned as well. On my Holley carbs I use Holley's blue gaskets. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
 
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