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Axle seal issues

I am also having the usual axle leak issues. This is the first time I have ever had the rear axles out and noticed the inner seal as a rubber seal. Just wondering if this original or aftermarket. Still looking for the timken bearings. Any idea where to get just the bearings? I have all the other seals already. - thx
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thx - I just never seen this type of seal, I have the usual replacement metal and rubber to replace this one, what I call inner and so does the 68 parts guide book But ,Seems I have seen them called outer seals as it does say outer on it in the pic, strange. Book shows outer as metal and rubber on the backing plate 2404-216. Inner shows 2404-215. I just picked up outer 215s from made in the USA mopar.
 
thx - Seems I have seen them called outer seals as it does say outer on it in the pic, strange. Book shows outer as metal and rubber on the backing plate 2404-216. Inner shows 2404-215. I just picked up outer 215s from made in the USA mopar]

It actually says "OUTSIDE" on the seal to make sure it's installed the correct way.
 
I pulled these out tonight. the regular puller is for small stuff, I bent it in 2 pulls, so I bought a seal puller from Harbor freight. I had to make brackets to get it to work. Not a big deal worked like a charm. These seals were so old they had the mopar part number on them, fully coated in rubber. Who knows maybe they are originals. I pick up my axles from the machine shop tomorrow with timken A7s put on. they didn't recommend the green bearings and I didn't want them anyway. These guys are old school and they have done many of both types back in the day. So I trust them. Im going to Red RTV the back plate gaskets and see how it goes. O yea I don't have the lock for the adjuster either, been driving for years without one.......

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When I removed mine I used a hook attachment on my slide hammer. I dressed the edge of the hook for a sharper bite and a few taps with the slide and popped the seals out.
 
I pulled these out tonight. the regular puller is for small stuff, I bent it in 2 pulls, so I bought a seal puller from Harbor freight. I had to make brackets to get it to work. Not a big deal worked like a charm. These seals were so old they had the mopar part number on them, fully coated in rubber. Who knows maybe they are originals. I pick up my axles from the machine shop tomorrow with timken A7s put on. they didn't recommend the green bearings and I didn't want them anyway. These guys are old school and they have done many of both types back in the day. So I trust them. Im going to Red RTV the back plate gaskets and see how it goes. O yea I don't have the lock for the adjuster either, been driving for years without one.......

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So I just wanted to followup with some good news. Everything sealed up nice with no leaks. I took a few extra precautions with a small bead up gasket sealer on inside of the shaft tube and on the backing plate gaskets. None on the foam gasket of course. I also put a lot of grease on the rubber seal ,keeping as much pressure off the rubber seal so I would not damage the rubber when the axle slides in. Seal driver makes this a breeze. I took measurements before and after and thought it needed to drive in further. You should feel when the seal hits the ridge in the tube. When it sounds solid STOP. I gave it a few more taps - not needed almost ruined the seal.

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The red seal you applied before installing the axle seal sounds a good idea, I will do it on my axle.
 
The red seal you applied before installing the axle seal sounds a good idea, I will do it on my axle.

It couldn't hurt that's why I mentioned it. I commented on your thread with other ideas on wear. Check it - good luck
 
Mine still leaking, I will remove the axle for the 3rd time and I will do it very slowly step by step.
I will check the end play
I will make sure the inner seal rides on axle( I have a doubt the seal is far in even I made the correct measurements last time).
I will take a measurement of the housing I.D where the bearing sets, and compare it with the bearing O.D.
Hope everything will work good.
 
When you put it back together tight axle adjuster to zero side play then back off to near minimum spec.. Somebody probably said that already.
 
Mine still leaking, I will remove the axle for the 3rd time and I will do it very slowly step by step.
I will check the end play
I will make sure the inner seal rides on axle( I have a doubt the seal is far in even I made the correct measurements last time).
I will take a measurement of the housing I.D where the bearing sets, and compare it with the bearing O.D.
Hope everything will work good.

Hamid Sorry you are having to do this again. Maybe before you pull the seal, with the axle out squirt some gear lube on in inside of the tube next to the seal and see if it starts to drip through the OD of the seal. This would at least test the bottom part of the seal against the tube where most of the fluid sits anyway. Also need to check the Id rubber and make sure its round and not worn. How much is leaking out? a drip, a puddle? Any vibration going on??
 
Thanks 68rules, all the 3 seals I replaced are OK, the last seal is not leaking either, the problem is not the inner seal.
I Jacked up the rear end, took the rear tires off, removed hubs, the first thing I did is shaking the axle, yes shaking the axle and it does move.
It has enough play to let the oil out.
I new earlier my axle housing has been reworked, it does not look new.
I took measurements of the axle roller bearing O.D, and the housing I.D.
RH Bearing O.D 2.884"
RH axle housing vertical I.D 2.987"
========== Horiz I.D 2.985"
LH Bearing O.D 2.884"
LH axle housing vertical I.D 2.931"
========== horiz I.D 2.919"
So there is a difference of .101" to .103" in the RH side and .049" to .035" at the LH side.
Is it time to look for another housing?, what is the housing I.D, and what is the interchange or donor cars?.
 
Just buy the ends and have a shop install them if you don’t have an alignment jig.
 
Thanks 68rules, all the 3 seals I replaced are OK, the last seal is not leaking either, the problem is not the inner seal.
I Jacked up the rear end, took the rear tires off, removed hubs, the first thing I did is shaking the axle, yes shaking the axle and it does move.
It has enough play to let the oil out.
I new earlier my axle housing has been reworked, it does not look new.
I took measurements of the axle roller bearing O.D, and the housing I.D.
RH Bearing O.D 2.884"
RH axle housing vertical I.D 2.987"
========== Horiz I.D 2.985"
LH Bearing O.D 2.884"
LH axle housing vertical I.D 2.931"
========== horiz I.D 2.919"
So there is a difference of .101" to .103" in the RH side and .049" to .035" at the LH side.
Is it time to look for another housing?, what is the housing I.D, and what is the interchange or donor cars?.

Ok now your getting somewhere. If you didn't replace the bearings yourself, I would make sure the right bearings were put on in the first place. A good machine shop can tell you what you need and install the bearing on the axles shafts or even if the rear axle tube was modified correctly. If the Axle tube needs much work to straighten it out, then yes a new used axle may be your best move to get rid of this issue. I'm guessing you have an 8 3/4 measure the housing end to end. Just my 2 cents
 
The ends are pretty quick solution, but does it need cutting?, how it is installed?
 
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