B/RB mopar Alum.heads

[bearman]

So the best thing to do is buy heads stripped and then come to your favorite shop and have everything done to make sure all is correct. So how much would something like that cost. Do i get a warranty with them. I feel with all the parts problem today as builders we need to get back to basics so we have great product when our cash has been spent. All this cookie cutter crap needs to stop. But again we are a society have got to have it right now.

 

[biomedtechguy]

All this cookie cutter crap needs to stop. But again we are a society have got to have it right now.

Add to that buy cheap (Chinese crap) and toss in the trash when it breaks...
AKA the "Wal-Mart mentality"...or "microwave society"

 

[bearman]

This is why i join this forum. Seeing the pics and reading how and what not to do gives me hope that craftsmanship is growing and the personal pride that all of you take in your projects is just great. Now if the rest of the world would just step up to the plate

 

[biomedtechguy]

After having been at the pinnacle (for South Louisiana) of the Home Theater business and in the industry since 1990, I was finally able to buy some of the awesome gear that I had sold or installed over my career. ALL of my speakers are Klipsch, made in Hope, Arkansas (the best thing that ever came from there) and they use real wood and sound AMAZING. For example, I have a pair of Belle Klipsch that I bought after they had been flooded 11" deep overnight during Katrina. Due to their design, the woofers were not contacted by the water, and the real walnut veneer did not peel or show any signs of damage that an occasional shot of Scott's Liquid Gold wood polish doesn't take care of...and they sound AWESOME!
Back on track, I want TrickFlow 240s for my future RB 6bbl stroker, unless my builder (yet to be determined) vehemently opposed them, I will defer to their recommendation (if they can convince me-lol)

 

[bearman]

Back in the day was pride. I know what you are saying but the real story is in this forum from 50 year old iron againest the latest new mopar. Building engines with 500 hp 625 lbs of torque and still seeing long life. The style in each one who has or is building one is like that walnut wood put a little more wax on it and see it shine if you know what I'm saying.

 

[Budnicks]

Add to that buy cheap (Chinese crap) and toss in the trash when it breaks...
AKA the "Wal-Mart mentality"...or "microwave society"

That statement should also include some cylinder heads too,
or the price point-shoppers, cheapskates, that want "cheap" instead of
Made In the USA or Quality...

No matter who's heads, that's your choice
If you want the most out of them;

they should be professionally ported & flow tested to back it up
assembled, with the proper quality components,
have all the proper machining clearances etc.,
all by someone that knows what they are doing,
not just some local yokel

they should be matched,
to the components to the heads, bore size/cubic inches, valve size,
camshaft, induction type, ignition selections, trans {converter or whatever}
the gears &/or weight of the car & the needs of the specific combo
{not all cars or combos are the same & don't require the same parts}
again by someone that knows what they are doing !!
not just throwing mismatched parts together, checkbook racing...

A max wedge port isn't always the best choice either

there's lots of great choices out there

INDY customer service is the worst, custom builds turnaround is horrid,
& even quality of the work/craftsmanship or the attention to detail
or parts sometimes too...

 

[bearman]

Very good input i agree with every word. That's why i believe in this forum to get the great inputs and some bad ones but enough good inputs does alot of positive push for everyone to ask questions when dealing with retailers etc.

 

[biomedtechguy]

That statement should also include some cylinder heads too,
or the price point-shoppers, cheapskates, that want "cheap" instead of
Made In the USA or Quality...

No matter who's heads, that's your choice
If you want the most out of them;

they should be professionally ported & flow tested to back it up
assembled, with the proper quality components,
have all the proper machining clearances etc.,
all by someone that knows what they are doing,
not just some local yokel

they should be matched,
to the components to the heads, bore size/cubic inches, valve size,
camshaft, induction type, ignition selections, trans {converter or whatever}
the gears &/or weight of the car & the needs of the specific combo
{not all cars or combos are the same & don't require the same parts}
again by someone that knows what they are doing !!
not just throwing mismatched parts together, checkbook racing...

A max wedge port isn't always the best choice either

there's lots of great choices out there

INDY customer service is the worst, custom builds turnaround is horrid,
& even quality of the work/craftsmanship or the attention to detail
or parts sometimes too...

Thanks Budnicks. I value your experience and input highly in these regards.

 

[m79ded]

I got TF240 from 440 source and let me tell you that I got better than 1st class service from Kim and Brandon. Buy from them. They helped throughout the purchase. I had a set of 440 source and they were great. I then got a set of TF to put onto my 451 and they were better performing heads but at the same time more than double the price when you factored in the pushrods, bolts , header mods needed. 451 pump gas 10.75 comp eddy perf intake and a comp XL285 cam. Just past 600hp and 625TQ very nice street motor. I could imagine if I did a 470 or even a 512. It would be killer on the street and track. Good luck on your purchase.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I got TF240 from 440 source and let me tell you that I got better than 1st class service from Kim and Brandon. Buy from them. They helped throughout the purchase. I had a set of 440 source and they were great. I then got a set of TF to put onto my 451 and they were better performing heads but at the same time more than double the price when you factored in the pushrods, bolts , header mods needed. 451 pump gas 10.75 comp eddy perf intake and a comp XL285 cam. Just past 600hp and 625TQ very nice street motor. I could imagine if I did a 470 or even a 512. It would be killer on the street and track. Good luck on your purchase. View attachment 585727

I really like seeing that. I'm really looking forward to the improvement heads and a roller rocker setup will bring. I've decided not to wait for a stroker before I get my 240s. I'm going to put them on my current motor if it looks like a stroker is going to take longer for me to afford than I have the patience to wait.

 

[66Satellite47]

There's a difference between an engine assembler, and an engine builder. If you are an assembler you have 3 choices.
1; just bolt it together and hope for the best.
2; take every part to a reputable shop and have it checked..
3; buy the tools, read, and learn from others with experience to become a builder
Doug

DVW you can't be more correct, I'm an engine assembler, not a builder. I've assembled many motors, but a true builder pays so much more time to the tiny details. I have always gone to a builder, although I assembled them myself with the qualified guidance. A true professional will always produce better results.

 

[gtxracer]

Dave, the machinist that does my stuff, asks what I want him to do. For instance, when I have a crank turned it is .011 instead of .010. Then we put our thoughts together and when all the machine work is done, if we have no questions of each other the assembly is my deal.
My GTX has run a best of 10.34 so something works..
Bob

 

[not so famous bob]

Dave, the machinist that does my stuff, asks what I want him to do. For instance, when I have a crank turned it is .011 instead of .010. Then we put our thoughts together and when all the machine work is done, if we have no questions of each other the assembly is my deal.
My GTX has run a best of 10.34 so something works..
Bob

I read this whole post-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I AM REALLY SURPRISED THAT NO ONE CALLED TH O.P. ON HIS COMMENT ABOUT PUTTING A SET OF 426 HEMI HEADS ONA 383 BLOCK ! " TALK ABOUT B.S. !"

 

[dvw]

I have my motor out right now. Yesterday spent an hour deburing the ends of the valve spring coils. The coil gets spread with a piece of plastic. Then you can carefully use a small file or Dremel with a cutoff wheel. One nick and the spring is scrap. Helps with titanium retainer life. Helps with breakage on the last 1/2 coil. Even though it was running well each valve and seat were marked to look at sealing surface. How many would take the time to do this?
Doug

 

[dvw]

I read this whole post-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I AM REALLY SURPRISED THAT NO ONE CALLED TH O.P. ON HIS COMMENT ABOUT PUTTING A SET OF 426 HEMI HEADS ONA 383 BLOCK ! " TALK ABOUT B.S. !"

Stage 5 hemi heads bolt to a wedge block. Back in mid 80's Dave Koffel built a 383 with Hemi heads. It was #1 qualifier at US Nats. Required furnace brazing bosses for the top row of studs and oil drain back lines. Ever look at a pair of AMC Pro-Stock heads? They were 2 factory heads split with top of one removed and the bottom of the other. Then the to larger halves were brazed back together to make a tall port head. Or Boss 302 heads cut and brazed to make a inline 6 cylinder head. Never say never.
Doug

 

[Budnicks]

I read this whole post-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I AM REALLY SURPRISED THAT NO ONE CALLED TH O.P. ON HIS COMMENT ABOUT PUTTING A SET OF 426 HEMI HEADS ONA 383 BLOCK ! " TALK ABOUT B.S. !"

Stage V makes a Hemi Head conversion & manifolds for them
for both B/RB blocks to convert to a Hemi
other than the top head bolt at 12 o'clock position on a B/RB
it's "stud & nut" on the hemi, it's the same bolt pattern otherwise
a different casting to accept the nut, inside the valley,
where the "stud Vs a bolt" goes...

http://www.stagev.com/pages/hcheads.html

 

[Bigfoots N Mopars]

The engine I initially bought was put together with expensive parts, Milodon gear drive, roller cam and lifters, 1.6 ratio aluminum roller rockers, external oiling system with remote oil filter tunnel ram, dual carbs. It would have been lucky to make about 550- maybe 600 hp. The builder and I ditched all of that. Solid flat tapped cam, double roller timing chain, 1.5 ratio steel roller rockers, single carb. The current combo works WAY better together and cheaper because it was planned out instead of just buying expensive parts. I learned a lot having this combination built.

 

[rumblefish360]

I know that the Trick Flow Heads (240's and 270's) get a lot of enthusiasm from the guys BUT....Although the CUSTOMER SERVICE at INDY CYLINDER HEAD really SUCKS...I can't see why anyone would use anything but the tried and proven INDY heads.

While the are a tried and proven part, you said it yourself but do not realize just how bad there reputation is.

OK, I’ll ask the question,
“How bad is it?!?!”

It’s so bad people are running away from them due to there rep alone and into the arms of Edelbrock and Trick Flow with big smiles on there face, happily spending there money on there parts!

The real shame is, ether INDY doesn’t know or care. And still yet, nothing is being done.

 

[dvw]

While the are a tried and proven part, you said it yourself but do not realize just how bad there reputation is.

OK, I’ll ask the question,
“How bad is it?!?!”

It’s so bad people are running away from them due to there rep alone and into the arms of Edelbrock and Trick Flow with big smiles on there face, happily spending there money on there parts!

The real shame is, ether INDY doesn’t know or care. And still yet, nothing is being done.

I agree. None of my stuff has any INDY logo on it. The trick is to buy from a supplier instead. The fact remains $ for $ in the HP world they are still the best overall choice in the 750HP-950HP range.
Doug

 

[1967coronet440]

So do we have any vendors for Indy here? I’m curious if there’s a problem with a casting etc do they replace the part or shove it up the vendors ***?