Backfire thru exhaust at idle

[Griff]

PS - Your Uncle sounds like he was a smart man, God Bless

 

[dadsbee]

Thanks Cosgig Yes, single field alternator, but not the old mechanical voltage regulator. The newer style voltage regulator you can see in the pics on the firewall.

If that is truly the case... no wonder it's not charging. You can't use that electronic regulator with a single field alternator, you need a dual to make it work.

 

[pnora]

If that is truly the case... no wonder it's not charging. You can't use that electronic regulator with a single field alternator, you need a dual to make it work.

For sure. Wiring looks like a spaghetti disaster.

 

[Griff]

If that is truly the case... no wonder it's not charging. You can't use that electronic regulator with a single field alternator, you need a dual to make it work.

Hmmm, ok then...i going to have to switch one or the other. Yes, the alternator is the single field round back date code 1968, (other is grounded to the case via it's own screw) and one Thanks Dadsbee, I'll let you all know which one I change. What would be your choice?

 

[cosgig]

If that is truly the case... no wonder it's not charging. You can't use that electronic regulator with a single field alternator, you need a dual to make it work.

Not
To mention that the old round back 36a alternator puts out about 18a at idle, not near enough in todays world of adding lots of other electrical devices .

 

[Griff]

For sure. Wiring looks like a spaghetti disaster.

That pasta plume, is all tidy...waiting for any last hitches, before I tape it all up. Still shaking the car down, never on road yet. First warm, sunny day in April

FYI - Stock original harness in most places, except for electronic ignition.

 

[Griff]

Not
To mention that the old round back 36a alternator puts out about 18a at idle, not near enough in todays world of adding lots of other electrical devices .

As of right now, nothing else is hooked up. I disconnected aftermarket gages, did not put back in the non-correct Air Conditioning box. everything else stock electrical wise

 

[dadsbee]

Not
To mention that the old round back 36a alternator puts out about 18a at idle, not near enough in todays world of adding lots of other electrical devices .

If his was actually working there's no reason it can't keep up to nothing more than an electronic ignition. I have factory alternators on all 5 of my cars, 3 of them including the Hemi running hidden ECM's and they all charge, if needed, when idling.

 

[pnora]

That pasta plume, is all tidy...waiting for any last hitches, before I tape it all up. Still shaking the car down, never on road yet. First warm, sunny day in April

FYI - Stock original harness in most places, except for electronic ignition.

I get it but who wired the newer regulator in ? No doubt thats your problem and it is not charging.

 

[Griff]

So, I can get this one rebuilt locally for $75...do it dadsbee?

 

[dadsbee]

Why, you said it tested fine. It's just not getting the control to actually work from your wiring and regulator set up.

Take what ever wire you have going to the field spade off. Make a small jumper wire and hold it from the B post to the field spade. The alternator should go full field and give you close to 18 volts...

 

[pnora]

So, I can get this one rebuilt locally for $75...do it dadsbee?

Just wire the correct regulator back in.

 

[Griff]

I get it but who wired the newer regulator in ? No doubt thats your problem and it is not charging.

I wired the whole car. I've actually taken this car down to it's chromazones, and put back together or rebuilt or replaced everything. I just had to do it on a tight budget, so no rotisserie or fancy tools. This is a rust free southwest car that has set in my parents garage and then in storage since i bought it in 1985

I was having more fun playing with and building my rats, and custom built harley.

Started the build on this bird 18 months ago.

 

[Griff]

Why, you said it tested fine. It's just not getting the control to actually work from your wiring and regulator set up.

Take what ever wire you have going to the field spade off. Make a small jumper wire and hold it from the B post to the field spade. The alternator should go full field and give you close to 18 volts...

OK, then that's it. Yes, it tested passed, so i was under the impression that "broad" auto parts test was not specific enough. I did not know I could not run the newer voltage regular. I do like the look of the old mechanical ones. Maybe, switch them out.

 

[Griff]

I'm going to run out and take a few quick pics of what we're talking about...be back in 15

 

[pnora]

OK, then that's it. Yes, it tested passed, so i was under the impression that "broad" auto parts test was not specific enough. I did not know I could not run the newer voltage regular. I do like the look of the old mechanical ones. Maybe, switch them out.

You can run the newer style regulator but the alternator needs a wire added for the regulator.

 

[dadsbee]

OK, then that's it. Yes, it tested passed, so i was under the impression that "broad" auto parts test was not specific enough. I did not know I could not run the newer voltage regular. I do like the look of the old mechanical ones. Maybe, switch them out.

Like I already said... a quick test, pull the wire off the field spade and jump a piece of wire from that spade to the B post on the alternator and you should go full field 16 to 18 volts. Only do it briefly long enough to see it works.

 

[pnora]

Like I already said... a quick test, pull the wire off the field spade and jump a piece of wire from that spade to the B post on the alternator and you should go full field 16 to 18 volts. Only do it briefly long enough to see it works.

No doubt his tested alternators can work. He is just confused on the wiring.

 

[Griff]

No doubt his tested alternators can work. He is just confused on the wiring.

Electrical is my weak spot...

 

[Griff]

Like I already said... a quick test, pull the wire off the field spade and jump a piece of wire from that spade to the B post on the alternator and you should go full field 16 to 18 volts. Only do it briefly long enough to see it works.

I'll do that this week, thanks