Backing plates when switching from tapered axls?

[icetech]

So.. ordered axles last night from drdiff so i can put in my 4.57 sure grip (will have to change those gears eventually but for now it will be fun) And i just want to verify that i need to also get later backing plates? Wasn't sure since i will have green bearings and no need for the end play adjusters or any of that..

 

[Mopar Hunter]

So.. ordered axles last night from drdiff so i can put in my 4.57 sure grip (will have to change those gears eventually but for now it will be fun) And i just want to verify that i need to also get later backing plates? Wasn't sure since i will have green bearings and no need for the end play adjusters or any of that..

Dr. Diff sells heavy duty backing plates.

 

[icetech]

Dr. Diff sells heavy duty backing plates.

Yup.. just needed to know if i need to find some or if the tapered ones will work. When i emailed drdiff he said he was having some made but didn't have them now.. on his page it's $450 for plates with brakes/drums.. already have brand new of everything except i had setup the axle when i didn't have a different center section to put in

 

[Lefty71]

The old backing plates will not work.

 

[Darter6]

Yes you need to change to the later ones

 

[Darter6]

I have some if you want. Just send me a PM.

 

[icetech]

Thanks guys!

 

[icetech]

Just curious what is the reason they won't work if you are using green bearings? i haven't seen them side by side...

 

[Dave6T4]

Late model axles will not fit early housings. The wheel bearing diameters are different, and the axle hole in the brake backing plate is way different. The early axle is two-piece, because the axle and bearing will not pass through the backing plate hole. You must separate the hub from the axle, and then remove the brake backing plate from the housing, before pulling the axles. In 1965, Chrysler redesigned the whole rear end assembly for easier maintenance. The axle became one-piece, because the backing plate now had the hole large enough to pass the axle bearing through. This greatly simplified axle and rear pot replacement, because rear brakes no longer had to be disturbed. To my knowledge, the only thing that is interchangeable between the early design and the late design is the rear pot assembly itself. On early rear ends, the axle drift is set up by trial and error with shims. This can be a very frustrating exercise. The later rear ends use an adjustable threaded collar to set this axle drift. Don't forget to use the locking tang! Axles and bearings will not interchange. So, if you are upgrading to later one-piece axles, you will also need a late style housing. I would suggest a 1966-1967 B-body assembly for 1962-1963 cars, as they are the narrowest of the B-body rear ends. I personally have used 1968-1970 B-body rear ends under my 1964 Polara's, because they are wider.
Remember to order brake parts for the year of the rear end, not the year of the car it is going under. There are other small changes to the brake plate besides the difference in the axle hole. Your original E-brake cables will connect to the newer rear end. Just speaking from my experiences, using original style Timken wheel bearings.

 

[icetech]

Late model axles will not fit early housings. The wheel bearing diameters are different, and the axle hole in the brake backing plate is way different. The early axle is two-piece, because the axle and bearing will not pass through the backing plate hole. You must separate the hub from the axle, and then remove the brake backing plate from the housing, before pulling the axles. In 1965, Chrysler redesigned the whole rear end assembly for easier maintenance. The axle became one-piece, because the backing plate now had the hole large enough to pass the axle bearing through. This greatly simplified axle and rear pot replacement, because rear brakes no longer had to be disturbed. To my knowledge, the only thing that is interchangeable between the early design and the late design is the rear pot assembly itself. Axles and bearings will not interchange. So, if you are upgrading to later one-piece axles, you will also need a late style housing. I would suggest a 1966-1967 B-body assembly for 1962-1963 cars, as they are the narrowest of the B-body rear ends. I personally have used 1968-1970 B-body rear ends under my 1964 Polara's, because they are wider.

I wish drdiff had told me this in our emails... said the axles will go right in my housing The bigger hole in the backing place makes sense though, didn't think bout that

 

[icetech]

Got a email back from Dr.Diff... bearings are the same OD and the axles will go right in, just need new inner seals and studs for the backing plate (which i ordered with the axles) Hoping i can just open up the hole on the backing plates and be GTG... have plasma cutter will travel

 

[R/T Boy 67]

I have no idea whether what you are suggesting will work, but if it will, the hole in the backing plate should be a nice round hole just a few thou. bigger than the bearing OD. The snap ring on the bearing needs a decent surface to seat on.

 

[icetech]

I have no idea whether what you are suggesting will work, but if it will, the hole in the backing plate should be a nice round hole just a few thou. bigger than the bearing OD. The snap ring on the bearing needs a decent surface to seat on.

Will find out when the axles show up... then go from there. Sucks i already rebuilt the whole rear end and indian headed the center section in.. gonna be a pain to clean

 

[khryslerkid]

Got a email back from Dr.Diff... bearings are the same OD and the axles will go right in, just need new inner seals and studs for the backing plate (which i ordered with the axles) Hoping i can just open up the hole on the backing plates and be GTG... have plasma cutter will travel

I don't know why you don't bookmark my build thread?

You won't have much luck opening the center hole precisely enough. Get yourself a set of used '65 or newer backing plates. You need the same size backing plate as the drum. The bearings will be on your axles when you receive them from Cass. If the thrust buttons are still in the Sure Grip you might want to remove them. Some have stated Cass said you didn't have to.

Step by step in my thread. I also accept PMs for questions

Post in thread 'Taking Up New Residence' Taking Up New Residence

 

[icetech]

I don't know why you don't bookmark my build thread?

You won't have much luck opening the center hole precisely enough. Get yourself a set of used '65 or newer backing plates. The bearings will be on your axles when you receive them from Cass. If the thrust buttons are still in the Sure Grip you might want to remove them. Some have stated Cass said you didn't have to.

Step by step in my thread. I also accept PMs for questions

Post in thread 'Taking Up New Residence' Taking Up New Residence

haha well mainly cause my memory is absolute horseshit and i didn't actually expect to be doing more than using the stock rear axle this year (although it's looking like my car won't be driving this year at this point) i will mark it, thanks

 

[khryslerkid]

haha well mainly cause my memory is absolute horseshit and i didn't actually expect to be doing more than using the stock rear axle this year (although it's looking like my car won't be driving this year at this point) i will mark it, thanks

I left out when looking for backing plates not only the diameter matters but the width also. Say 10 x 2 1/2 is different than 10 x 2. B body's and E bodies are the same.

 

[icetech]

I left out when looking for backing plates not only the diameter matters but the width also. Say 10 x 2 1/2 is different than 10 x 2. B body's and E bodies are the same.

oh damn.. i didn't think the width would matter for backing plates, only the drums.. thanks for the tip

 

[tubalcain]

Will find out when the axles show up... then go from there. Sucks i already rebuilt the whole rear end and indian headed the center section in.. gonna be a pain to clean

Indianhead is shellac. Alcohol is the solvent.

 

[icetech]

Indianhead is shellac. Alcohol is the solvent.

YES! that will help sooo much

 

[icetech]

Indianhead is shellac. Alcohol is the solvent.

I tend to clean with rubbing alcohol but didn't know it would take that off.. will make it a bit easier than scraping with a razor around all those studs