Ballast Resistors

[roadrunnerron]

My 68 Runner has an Accel Super Coil 14001 and after six years of driving it failed to start. When I removed the ballast resistor that came with the coil, I noticed that the porcelain (I think) casing is cracked. My research shows the part as 15001 Super Coil Resistor.

Can this be bought separately from the coil? Do all ballast resistors have similar specs and could I use one from a different manufacturer?

 

[texas69bee]

The resistor for that coil is .85 ohms. That range can be found at summit racing. If you are using electronic ignition with that coil you do not need the ballast resistor.

 

[Kern Dog]

There is a lot of debate as to whether or not to use a ballast resistor. I always run one whther using points, Mopar electronic, a stock coil or the MSD.

 

[texas69bee]

There is a lot of debate as to whether or not to use a ballast resistor. I always run one whther using points, Mopar electronic, a stock coil or the MSD.

The manufacture for this part# of coil suggest no ballast resistor unless you are using points.

 

[roadrunnerron]

The resistor for that coil is .85 ohms. That range can be found at summit racing. If you are using electronic ignition with that coil you do not need the ballast resistor.

Great reply and exactly what I need. There were no markings whatsoever on the one I removed.

 

[Yatzee]

Trash the resistor for good and buy a coil that doesn't require one. You can leave it hanging in place for esthetics just bypass the wiring. Never have to worry about that questionable white, maybe cracked **** thingy again or carry a spare in the glove box.
" The future is bright" if you know what I mean.

 

[RoadWarrior]

I always run a ballast resistor if stock ignition is being used, such as points, or the mopar ECM (orange box or whatever). Even with a MSD coil, I go with the recommended BR which is like .5 ohm's or something. Maybe .75. I've never had an issue. Never had a Ballast Resistor fail. Have had the same one since I got this car over 10 years ago. And had the same one that came on my 74 charger as well the entire time I owned it. An orange box and ballast resistor are just something I am used to seeing

But if the entire ignition system is MSD or some other performance brand then I wouldn't use a BR.

 

[383man]

Well here is what I can tell you. I also was hearing that guys are running the MP electronic ign with no ballast. So for the heck of it I unhooked my ballast last winter and just jumped it. I also use the Accel Super Coil and the MP orange ECU.. I have been drivng my 63 since last winter with no ballast in it and I can tell you the coil does not get hot and it runs great. And has given me no problem at all. You can see the Accel Super Coil in this pic and you can just barely see the corner of my orange ECU at the left rear of the air cleaner. I have no plans to hook a ballast back up as its working good and has a hotter spark. Ron

 

[moparedtn]

I just went thru the whole ballast thing here earlier this year. I've got a whole thread on here on this very subject. It's got wiring diagrams and all sorts of experimentation on this; I wore the subject out, pretty much.

What I discovered was that the previous owner had, for some reason, used the wiring for a mid-70's Mopar electronic ignition setup when he "converted" my GTX to electronic ignition, including the double ballast.
A learning process for me, since I am used to just using the Mopar kit and replacing the regulator with the electronic one.
The Mopar electronic ignition kit (orange box and all) INLCUDES a new ballast that Ma Mopar wants you to use. I always figured they knew more than me, so I used it when I'd do the conversions.
I have the MP electronic distributor and orange box now, along with an MSD Blaster coil.

Long story short, I discovered the previous owners' rigging had the ballast only sending like 5V to my MSD coil - which led to high RPM misfiring!
Lots of experimentation with different ballasts and my trusty ohm/ voltmeter led me to fetching the MSD ballast that is only 0.5ohm, which gives me a perfect 12V to the coil during running.
That cured about everything, right there.
Yes, I know I could probably run totally without a ballast, but like I said before - Ma included one in their kits and they know a crapload more than I do about these things, so I run one.

 

[RoadWarrior]

There are two kinds of people in this world Those that blow resistors, and those that don't.

The ballast resistor is strictly to keep your stock coil from blowing right? Bypass with 12 volts to start, then in run allows only 9 volts to the coil. Performance coils don't need that, what they need is all the voltage they can get. All the guys that say you don't need one and don't have problems have aftermarket coils.

Talk to anyone that removed their ballast resistor to their stock mopar coil and I'll bet they have a different story haha.

But if my little orange box doesn't care what voltage my coil gets, then I would consider switching to MSD and bypassing my ballast. Actually now I am curious why MSD offers resistors for their coils. I know its less resistance but they shouldn't need any, right? Maybe its just an offer for us mopar guys that really don't want to fuss and change the way your car is wired.

 

[moparedtn]

I found this on the Accel website:

"Do I have to use the supplied ballast resistor when installing the Super Coil II?"

"It depends on the ignition system you have. When using a single or dual point distributor, the positive side of the coil should be supplied with 8-10 volts when the key is in the "run" position. Check it with a voltmeter and use the resistor only if necessary. Less than 7 volts will result in a weak spark, and over 10 volts will burn the points. Nearly all electronic ignitions require 12 volts (no resistor). This includes HEI, Accel 41000 and 51000 series, and CD ignitions (Accel 300+, Mallory HyFire, MSD, etc.). An exception to this is the Mallory Unilite distributor when wired directly to the coil (no ignition box). Unilites require 7-9 volts supplied to positive side of the coil. When using the Super Coil with stock Chrysler or Ford Duraspark systems, use the ballast specified by the manufacturer."

I reckon that means with ours - if running electronic, no ballast needed?

 

[texas69bee]

Yep

 

[Ranger16]

After reading all this I am more confused than ever

.
All I can say is mine has the orange & blue ECU and the resistor. It's there, it works and I'm gonna leave it. Why fool with success.

 

[383man]

Yes it can be very confusing to many. The main reason for ballast when they used them years ago was to help the points live longer and not overheat the coil. When I run my car without the ballast the first thing I did was run it a good 1/2 hr and then feel the coil and make sure its not to hot as mine was not even warm it was cool so I knew that was good. You also have to remember the more voltage the coil gets the more volts/amps will go through the ECU when using the Mopar setup. The ECU is the ground for the coil on MP electronic ign so you also need to be sure the ECU can handle the extra volts/amps if you dont use a ballast. It seems to me the orange ECU handles it fine with the Acell supercoil. The coil also has to do with it also. Remember the ign current on the MP setup flows through the ballast and then through the coil and then through the ECU to ground. So eliminating the ballast can effect them all and the resistance of the coil primary circuit will also have an effect on the voltage/amps going through the primary ign system. I believe the supercoil I use has enough resistance in it that the MP orange ECU will work fine without the ballast and with 12 volts right to the coil as the coil and ECU never get hot. And I have been running like that for almost a year now. Just remember the ballast the coil and ECU are all in series in the primary ign circuit and the resistance in any of them will change the volts/amps in the primary ign circuit. Its a balance of the proper setup but you dont have to worry about burning points with electronic ign you just need to be sure the ECU will also handle the extra volts/amps if you run with no ballast. Ron