BATTERY NOT CHARGING (replaced alt and voltage reg). Didnt work

Electrical & Ignition

  1. Farquiaj

    Farquiaj Member

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    Hey guys,

    My 1974 Dodge Charger (318) is not charging the battery. I replaced the alternator and voltage regulator and it is still will not charging. I had a brother in law jump it on 80 amp boost and it melted the voltage regulator and ignition module (which I also replaced), so I am thinking its something else that we fried. The fuses all seem to be in good shape. Any thoughts on what else it could be?
     
  2. 451Mopar

    451Mopar Well-Known Member

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    #1) remove the regulator plug, and with the ignition on, there should be voltage at both the blue and green wire connection in the connector.
    If no voltage on the green wire connector, there is a bad connection / wire between the alternator and regulator, or there is no ignition power (blue wire) power getting to the alternator. Make sure regulator has good ground to the engine block too.
     
  3. 65wgn440

    65wgn440 Well-Known Member

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    Fusible link ??
     
  4. Farquiaj

    Farquiaj Member

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    How exactly do I check the voltage on those wires? I do have a multi-tester, I just don't know how to check the voltage on each wire.
     
  5. Farquiaj

    Farquiaj Member

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    How do you know if the fusible link is bad? I took the fusible link that runs from the Ignition Starter relay to the fuse box off to see if it was damaged, but it just looked normal to me. The Ignition starter relay is the first thing the power goes to from the battery, so that's why I checked that. Are there more fusible links on the 318 engine? Could the ignition relay have anything to do with it?
     
  6. Farquiaj

    Farquiaj Member

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    Does anyone know where the fusable links/link are located?
     
  7. wahya

    wahya Well-Known Member

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    When you jumped it, did the car start up.
     
  8. Farquiaj

    Farquiaj Member

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    Yes, it started and it still runs good. Just does not charge the battery. So we put a new alternator in, and a new voltage regulator (the old one was melted on the back so I think that one was defiantly bad). No change with the new parts.
     
  9. matthon

    matthon Well-Known Member

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    Just throwing this out there, I recently replaced my alternator because I had a $40 off a $100 purchase, yadda yadda, it was the only thing not new on the car.

    Within 24 hrs battery died, brand new alternator was not charging, they replaced it and had to warranty the battery.
     
  10. Nacho-RT74

    Nacho-RT74 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    ok, let's see.

    AMPERAGE doesn't melt devices because amperage can't be pushed in, just sucked in. You can't PUSH IN 80 amps into a system and melt anything. The lack of good paths or the lack of good amperage source can melt, but not the excess of amperage. You plug your cell phone charger ( 1 amp ) into a 15 amps wall outlet coming from a 60 or 100 amps system at home and the cellphone charger won't burn out. If your brother burned something with a booster, was not because the amperage.

    Your batt is maybe 120 amps cranking power. 900 amps charge reserve and you connect there a 2 watts bulb without burn anything

    You can burn stuff with voltage, but not with amperage.

    Now, maybe you could get a short somewhere, thats a diff deal. Can't tell where or why.

    Check your paths conditions between alternator and battery. This means bulkhead conections and ammeter studs. Damaged paths can cause a no charge status althoutgh alt is trying to provide it. Maybe in fact the alt is sourcing the main splice but paths are damaged to not be able to the batt to get the recharge load.
     
  11. Nacho-RT74

    Nacho-RT74 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    as mentioned by 451Mopar, with ign in RUN, you should get 12 volts or so between green and blue wires at alt field. Blue is positive ign signal, green is regulated ground ( negative ), which regulator takes from chassis at firewall.
     
  12. 451Mopar

    451Mopar Well-Known Member

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    Test voltage between the connection and ground. You can even use a test light, don't even need a multi-meter.
     
  13. Farquiaj

    Farquiaj Member

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    Appreciate the advice! I am about to go test all of this. I was also told the ammeters can go bad in these causing the battery not to charge. Can I just bypass the ammeter? Or should I change to a voltmeter?
     
  14. dryheat

    dryheat FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    If you are experiencing an issue with the AMP meter ... you are probably not going to like what you find. There is a thread on this site to give you directions on how to bypass the amp meter.
     
  15. Farquiaj

    Farquiaj Member

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    So I bypassed the amp meter, and still no charge... I’m at a loss of what to do now
     
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