BB Satellite won't restart after driving-Please help
- Thread starter RS1FF
- Start date
Had the exact same issue as the OP. Here's what worked for me:
I had stock 4AWG re-pop battery cables and stock large size starter with Performer RMP intake on top of 400 block. I added a 1/2" phenolic spacer between the carb and intake to reduce heat. (the Performer RPM intake does not have a heat crossover). I also replaced my stock starter with a mini starter from a 98 Dakota. That helped some, but still had occasional hot start heat soak issues. I upsized my battery cables to 1 AWG. That helped a LOT.
Mitigating the vapor lock issue seems to be needed regardless because of today's ethanol containing fuel.
Even with the mini-starter, my headers are so close to the starter that I was having the same starter struggling to rotate issue. So close that I can't even fit a heat shield in there. So increasing battery cable size and making sure the cable terminals are a good connection was key to solving my issue.
I had stock 4AWG re-pop battery cables and stock large size starter with Performer RMP intake on top of 400 block. I added a 1/2" phenolic spacer between the carb and intake to reduce heat. (the Performer RPM intake does not have a heat crossover). I also replaced my stock starter with a mini starter from a 98 Dakota. That helped some, but still had occasional hot start heat soak issues. I upsized my battery cables to 1 AWG. That helped a LOT.
Mitigating the vapor lock issue seems to be needed regardless because of today's ethanol containing fuel.
Even with the mini-starter, my headers are so close to the starter that I was having the same starter struggling to rotate issue. So close that I can't even fit a heat shield in there. So increasing battery cable size and making sure the cable terminals are a good connection was key to solving my issue.
Wow, lord only knows what is causing it and there are many possibilities as noted by the response. You can throw parts at it all day and not fix the problem. It cranks but won't start? At that time does it have spark? Apparently it has fuel because you can smell it? Even though you have a new fuel pump and carb it may be bleeding over because of excessive fuel pressure or mis-adjusted float levels. It sounds like it cranks slow which could be a starter or cable issue but the charging system needs to be checked and the battery fully charged and checked to make sure both are working properly.
I don't think you can go wrong putting in a Dakota/Ram sytle permanent magnet starter if you've still got the gear reduction starter.
It will spin over more quickly and not drop the voltage as much.
It will spin over more quickly and not drop the voltage as much.
RS1FF
Member
Guess I should have updated this post! First thing I did was add the spacer between the carb and the intake. It was definitely vapor lock. That made an absolute night and day difference that eliminated most of the problems. I also had the battery tested and had a bad battery, even though it was brand new. Additionally did some carb tuning, and the car starts up without many issues unless it has been sitting for a bit. Have not installed the starter yet, but car have lots of things to do this winter to include starter, alternator, starter cable cable, FBO ignition box, aluminum heads, etc. I will keep everyone updated.
Slow cranking, check your positive battery cable where it ties into the lead connector. I've had a new repop cable come loose here and cause slow crank. It will be hot to the touch after cranking.
glad to hear things are going in the right direction. What thickness and material spacer did you use?
RS1FF
Member
68SS, I used the Edelbrock spacer that's about a 1/3 inch think. Not really thick, but made a difference. That little bit led to a shorter air cleaner and a new throttle cable.
Purepony
Well-Known Member
Or a heat shield on the starter like I did. I also wrapped my fuel carb line from the pump to the carb and it helped.
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