BB Satellite won't restart after driving-Please help

Engine, Trans & Driveline

  1. RS1FF

    RS1FF Member

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    I have a '67 Plymouth Satellite, 400/727. I've had the car for about a year and this winter made some upgrades/modifications. The car had sat and was hardly driven last few years, so I just went ahead and replaced the entire fuel system after seeing how much junk was in the carb. It has a new fuel tank/sending unit, 3/8 ss lines, Mancini carter fuel pump (so its not as high of pressure), braided fuel line ( with filter mid line) up to 650 Eddy AVS2. I also replaced the heavy intake with a Performer RPM. New plugs and wires (Firecore). Orange box and MSD blaster 2 coil on top of intake manifold. New Napa Battery. Ammeter says battery is charging when car is running.

    Here is the problem and it has happened to me twice now and I am pulling my hair out. Car fired up fine in my garage, two pumps on the gas pedal and she ran fine. It does smell a little rich and I need to adjust that. Drove 3 miles and shut the car off, but it wouldn't fire back up. Plenty of fuel (I could smell it) but car wont start and sounds like it is slow to turn over (like a dying batter). I also replaced the ECU (orange box) and that didn't do it either. I recharged battery and tried jumping to no avail. 2.5 hours later tried the car again and it fired right up.

    Battery shows consistent 12.4 or so volts. The car does have headers. Before all fuel system work, the car took forever to start, but it also had a Holley fuel pump with a fuel regulator on it. I've been trying to look at other posts for the problem as well Could this be an issue with the starter and heat soak on it? Any help is appreciated and trying to give as much information as a I can. I want to narrow this down so I can enjoy my car, but not throw tons of money at trial and error. Thanks in advance!
     
  2. WileERobby

    WileERobby Well-Known Member

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    Is the problem with the starter rotating the engine ? (Cable hot, close to header ? ) OR... is the engine rotating but not igniting ?
     
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    • RS1FF

      RS1FF Member

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      Initially, when the car is cold it starts up fine. After running is when it doesn't want to start again.
       
    • WileERobby

      WileERobby Well-Known Member

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      You didn't answer my question
       
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      • RS1FF

        RS1FF Member

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        After I have driven the car, the car won't start back up. The engine is turning over, even though it sounds like it is slow because it doesn't want to "fire off" if that makes sense.
         
      • WileERobby

        WileERobby Well-Known Member

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        If the problem is slow turning over, insulate the starter cable it may be getting heat soak. When the engine is running, also check your timing as that may also exacerbate the condition to attempt firing.
         
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        • Don Frelier

          Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Do a spark check when this happens.
          Bulkhead connections perhaps.
          Maybe a bad coil? It's going to get the hottest a short period after shutting it off.
           
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          • YY1

            YY1 Well-Known Member

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            12.4 is not enough voltage.

            Try a different coil.

            Jump battery + to coil next time. That bypasses the relay and the ballast.

            My truck did that for a while and it ended up being crap in the fuel line.
            Not at all any of the tings I expected.
             
          • dsd1967

            dsd1967 Well-Known Member

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            After driving 3 miles, can you start it up immediately after shutting it off? If no....then I would lean toward the electrical. If it starts back up immediately after shutting off then I would lean toward a vapor lock issue.

            I'm going through the same thing on a 67 D100 with the identical driveline 400/727. I can run the truck several miles, shut down, immediately turn the key and it starts. If I run it around the block, park it and 10 minutes later try to start it....no go...until it's completely cold again. This weekend I'm putting a new intake gasket with heat crossover blockoffs and putting a filter that has a return line outlet. Hopefully that will resolve my issue.
             
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            • RS1FF

              RS1FF Member

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              This afternoon car started up fine. Ran it up and down the road and came home. I shut the car off, and immediately it restarted. I then shut it off and gave it 10 seconds. Started right up. Waited 10 minutes, and then it started to act like it did last night with wanting to start, but after about 8 to 10 seconds it started up. So should I be thinking heat soak at YY1 mentioned? Tonight I'm going to drive it further and come home, but give it more time between trying to start it and see what that does.
               
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              • 69a100

                69a100 Well-Known Member

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                Vapor lock and or heat soak. Both my Mopars do that if I let them sit any longer than 3-5 minutes. You have to treat it as a flooded engine, just hold your foot to the floor till it fires. It's a suck situation for all of us old car folks with the gas today, you just have to deal with it or go EFI! Good Luck
                 
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                • dsd1967

                  dsd1967 Well-Known Member

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                  Do a search on this site for vapor lock....there is at least one thread with a lot of information on how to resolve it. As I stated above, I'm going to go with a filter with a two exit ports...one to the carb and a restricted one that will feed back to the tank. That coupled with the heat crossovers blocked will hopefully resolve the problem. I should know by Saturday and can check back here and let you know.
                   
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                  • 67charger383

                    67charger383 Well-Known Member

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                    The new MP ignition boxes are junk. Do yourself a favor and pick up a MSD 6al-2
                     
                  • droptop

                    droptop Well-Known Member

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                    Put a mini starter on it. Headers tend to burn up gear reduction starters.
                     
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                    • Mick56

                      Mick56 Well-Known Member

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                      After shutting off a hot engine, the heat can expand the gas in the carb and overflow it into the manifold. Just like flooding an engine. My 66 Sport Fury did that. Try flooring the gas pedal when trying to start it after it has sat a bit, to clear out the extra gas.
                       
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                      • RS1FF

                        RS1FF Member

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                        I also thought that might be part of the problem, so I have ordered a mini starter, aka 89 Dakota starter for it.
                         
                      • 451Mopar

                        451Mopar Well-Known Member

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                        Post a picture of your battery cables and connections.
                        Old battery cables with bad connections will cause problems even worse when around heat.
                        Also need good battery to body and engine to firewall ground connections if not already on the car.
                        The orange ECU has issues detecting the magnetic pickup pulse if the ground reference level changes (ground loop issue.)
                        That problem usually is car won't fire while cranking, but release the key and it tries to fire.
                         
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                        • JJ383RR

                          JJ383RR Active Member

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                          Had a Ballast resistor that was cracked in a Cordoba. It would fire right up, but once warm it wouldn't start. Cheap part to check/replace..
                           
                        • 64BEL

                          64BEL Well-Known Member

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                          My Hemi had this condition when the timing was a little too much advanced. It went away after I backed it off a little.
                           
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