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Before I blow out my ear drums...

Sorry you cannot recognize sarcasm.....but no real information is presented....brand name of equipment, model numbers, schematic diagrams....either pictorial or physical .....without any actual information....as what's presented thus far is just conjecture.....like how high is up or similar undefined attributes......you say MANY (un named) amplifiers have a soft start feature.....undefined....strictly conjecture.....what is a typical circuit.....voltage dependent resistors as MOVs or are you just guessing????.......need specifics.....
BOB RENTON
BOB..
Not really sarcasm, just basic experience.. :rolleyes:
1st post he disclosed it was an aftermarket audio system,
85% of the aftermarket systems utilize an external power amplifier.
As aftermarket head units tend to have limited power output, plus the majority of systems use a subwoofer
and aftermarket speakers typically are of low sensitivity/impedance and these products require a higher powered,
multi-channel external amplifier
to drive up the SPL(Sound Pressure Level) Regarding amplifiers with built-in soft-start/muting circuits
include the Alpine PXE-C80-88, Audio Control EPIC750, Kicker 51LX500.4...
If U require further clarification, just PM me...

Just my $0.02.. :thumbsup:
 
BOB..
Not really sarcasm, just basic experience.. :rolleyes:
1st post he disclosed it was an aftermarket audio system,
85% of the aftermarket systems utilize an external power amplifier.
As aftermarket head units tend to have limited power output, plus the majority of systems use a subwoofer
and aftermarket speakers typically are of low sensitivity/impedance and these products require a higher powered,
multi-channel external amplifier
to drive up the SPL(Sound Pressure Level) Regarding amplifiers with built-in soft-start/muting circuits
include the Alpine PXE-C80-88, Audio Control EPIC750, Kicker 51LX500.4...
If U require further clarification, just PM me...

Just my $0.02.. :thumbsup:
I'm well aware of terminologies....remember, im a degreed ELECTRICAL ENGINEER and I've designed complex control systems etc....and the need for preliminary schematics is required....not guesstimates....I'm aware of power requirments.....but once again.....NO BRAND NAMES/MODELS OF EXTERNAL POWER AMPLIFIERS....specific to the OP's quiry...WHY??? OR DON'T YOU KNOW.....you're just speculating as to what is used, and how it's connected.....btw...I do not need any further clarification.....but it sounds like you need to be specific.....or are you blind guessing as to what's being used and how it's controlled. To me complex audio systems for vehicles are of little importance......the vehicle's authentic appearance, originality, better than stock performance is ......just my opinion......
BOB RENTON
 
I'm well aware of terminologies....remember, im a degreed ELECTRICAL ENGINEER and I've designed complex control systems etc....and the need for preliminary schematics is required....not guesstimates....I'm aware of power requirments.....but once again.....NO BRAND NAMES/MODELS OF EXTERNAL POWER AMPLIFIERS....specific to the OP's quiry...WHY??? OR DON'T YOU KNOW.....you're just speculating as to what is used, and how it's connected.....btw...I do not need any further clarification.....but it sounds like you need to be specific.....or are you blind guessing as to what's being used and how it's controlled. To me complex audio systems for vehicles are of little importance......the vehicle's authentic appearance, originality, better than stock performance is ......just my opinion......
BOB RENTON

RR_Trust_Me.png
 
Since what brand and type of system is not stated....HOW CAN ALTERNATIVE FIXES BE OFFERED???? For all we know, maybe it's the Pertronix Blaster II COIL or ACCEL SUPER COIL back feeding across the ballast resistor and ECU, either the MSD TYPE or Mopar Orange box which is causing all problems (excessively high voltage not converted to blazing horse power increase), in addition the back feed will likely cause the instrument panel gauges to react differently.....Empty is full and vice versa, etc. Since you proclaim no knowledge of auto wiring, the best thing for you to do is take you car to an expert, who does these repairs for a living and tell them what you want and remove all previous installed owners equipment?? Someone suggested adding a capacitor....what value and where to connect it.....and .....an amplifier......on the output of the system or an intermediate stage of the system,.....initial descriptions is too vague to make any determination.......sounds like an exercise in futility.......just my opinion.......
BOB RENTON

Thanks for the ideas Bob. I'm sorry I wasn't clear in laying out my background/quals. I am at the hobbyist level for enjoying Mopars. I've done my share of chasing grounds, testing gauges, replacing wiring harnesses, etc. I can use a multimeter. However, I don't know what I don't know. I've never experienced this condition with any radio/stereo, factory or aftermarket, and came here looking for an idea of where to start. Several good folks have pointed to a power surge from an amplifier as a reasonable cause of the problem. That's where I'm starting the trouble shooting. While it may be an exercise in futility, that's fine - the wifey says I need more exercise anyway.
 
Since it isn't your car, perhaps you'd be leery of digging too deeply into the unknown problem. You might want to pass on some suggestions to your friend to take care of on its return, such as: (SOLVED) Amplifier Pops When Turned On - BoomSpeaker

This is the type of info I was looking for. The issue is a single loud 'pop' when the system is first turned on, then it operates normally, so I'm leaning heavily to situation #1 in the article. Thanks for sending it.
 
Not exactly sure of what is being represented.....is this suppose to represent Whiley E. Coyote....lighting his finger on fire?????......I'm not well versed in representative "art"????.......just say what you mean....leave no room for doubt......
BOB RENTON
 
Not exactly sure of what is being represented.....is this suppose to represent Whiley E. Coyote....lighting his finger on fire?????......I'm not well versed in representative "art"????.......just say what you mean....leave no room for doubt......
BOB RENTON
It looks more like Wile E. Coyote. Whiley is his cousin in Great Britain.
 
Sorry you cannot recognize sarcasm.....but no real information is presented....brand name of equipment, model numbers, schematic diagrams....either pictorial or physical .....without any actual information....as what's presented thus far is just conjecture.....like how high is up or similar undefined attributes......you say MANY (un named) amplifiers have a soft start feature.....undefined....strictly conjecture.....what is a typical circuit.....voltage dependent resistors as MOVs or are you just guessing????.......need specifics.....
BOB RENTON
BOB...
There are multiple ways to design an amplifier soft start circuit, there are several factors to consider including:
1. Output power level of the amplifier
2. Price classification of the amplifier
3. Type of system install such as mobile, residential, commercial
4. Bill of Materials budget for the soft-start circuit internal components

I can go into more technical details if required, just PM me I don't want to take up more post bandwidth.
For ur info, I have attached a schematic of a soft-start circuit I have used in some of the amplifiers I have designed.

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

soft-start-power-supply-circuit.jpeg
 
BOB...
There are multiple ways to design an amplifier soft start circuit, there are several factors to consider including:
1. Output power level of the amplifier
2. Price classification of the amplifier
3. Type of system install such as mobile, residential, commercial
4. Bill of Materials budget for the soft-start circuit internal components

I can go into more technical details if required, just PM me I don't want to take up more post bandwidth.
For ur info, I have attached a schematic of a soft-start circuit I have used in some of the amplifiers I have designed.

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

View attachment 1858633
I'm aware of what a soft start circuit is and it's objectives......personally, I prefer the old vacuum tubes for audio amplifier devices....like Marantz or Dynaco Mk III monoblock amplifiers, PAS3X Preamplifier using a 12x4 rectifiertube and use 12VDC to the preamp tubes for no power supply hum)......which use the old reliable GZ34 /5AR4 full wave rectifier tube, which provides a smooth application of the B+ supply.....vs.....a soft start circuit using diodes, timing network. And in my old car, the AM only radio is my ONLY sound system......and that's all it's ever going to get.....no 200 watt amplifiers, digital sources, etc.....I'm a belier in originality.....so your words simply don't apply.....because i really don't care.....your car....do what you wish......
BOB RENTON
 
Sorry Bob... :rolleyes:
The audio system is totally separate from the ignition system..
Maybe if the OP installed an electronic voltage regulator and removed the points there would be no pop?

Just a thought...... :p
 
This guy has a few tips on electronic circuitry.....

 
Maybe if the OP installed an electronic voltage regulator and removed the points there would be no pop?

Just a thought...... :p
I was being a little facetious....since most everyone seems to be experts in electronic ignition systems and their shortcomings or longcommings and the dreaded loose wires, bad grounds, corroded connections at the bulkhead connectors, randomly interchanged components and ECU failures....and maybe resulting in poor audio system operation, along with charging system maladies....or the incorrect wax used....one never knows??? Just too many possibilities and unrelated opinions.......just an observation....
BOB RENTON
 
This guy has a few tips on electronic circuitry.....


AMAZING.......too much information all at once......should watch several times for the info to sink in.....for those of us that have HARD HEADS (me)......but no reference or source of the info....be nice to know where the info originated....or did the presenter just make up the video??.......???.....
BOB RENTON
 
I was being a little facetious....since most everyone seems to be experts in electronic ignition systems and their shortcomings or longcommings and the dreaded loose wires, bad grounds, corroded connections at the bulkhead connectors, randomly interchanged components and ECU failures....and maybe resulting in poor audio system operation, along with charging system maladies....or the incorrect wax used....one never knows??? Just too many possibilities and unrelated opinions.......just an observation....
BOB RENTON
I was too. With a smidge of irony in there for good measure.

I do recall many large older speakers having a characteristic thump when an audio device is switched on. Usually larger speakers, and mostly older gear - some with valve technology. I think it has to do with capacitor charge-up during a power-up. My VOX amp does it when I switch it on - valve technology, with 10" Celestion speakers.

However, that is just my seats-of-the-pants suggestion here.
 
I was too. With a smidge of irony in there for good measure.

I do recall many large older speakers having a characteristic thump when an audio device is switched on. Usually larger speakers, and mostly older gear - some with valve technology. I think it has to do with capacitor charge-up during a power-up. My VOX amp does it when I switch it on - valve technology, with 10" Celestion speakers.

However, that is just my seats-of-the-pants suggestion here.
Nothing beats a little irony for good measure......most readers don't understand subtitles or facetiousness......almost like pundities and double entondries....?????........I'm a fan of tubes (valves) as well......
Cheers.....
BOB RENTON
 
I'm aware of what a soft start circuit is and it's objectives......personally, I prefer the old vacuum tubes for audio amplifier devices....like Marantz or Dynaco Mk III monoblock amplifiers, PAS3X Preamplifier using a 12x4 rectifiertube and use 12VDC to the preamp tubes for no power supply hum)......which use the old reliable GZ34 /5AR4 full wave rectifier tube, which provides a smooth application of the B+ supply.....vs.....a soft start circuit using diodes, timing network. And in my old car, the AM only radio is my ONLY sound system......and that's all it's ever going to get.....no 200 watt amplifiers, digital sources, etc.....I'm a belier in originality.....so your words simply don't apply.....because i really don't care.....your car....do what you wish......
BOB RENTON
BOB..
This post is about car audio not home audio...
Keep in mind..
The early tube components didn't require a soft-start as it
takes time for the tube filaments to turn ON and power supply circuitry to warm up.
While the majority of the later components are solid-state so they power up promptly....
However ur referal to the older tube audio components of which even today 60 years later are largely appreciated and
endorsed to sound better by a select group... :rolleyes: I have built several Dynaco, Eico and Heath kits and they were trend setters in their day, a Dynaco
70 power amplifier by Hafler is still a good sounding amplifier. But eventually even Dynaco went solid-state, also a Marantz model 9 mono tube amplifier are selling for up to $10k.
Over the years I have had multiple audio systems, some tube and some solid-state but to my ears the later, higher quality solid-state
audio components still sound better. Lower distortion, wider bandwidth and higher dynamic range as an older analog system @ best
is around 75 SNR while the later digital systems and source media approach 100 SNR.

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
 
@Sinitro Remember, he is against electronic ignition, better performance alts and of course, ppl proceeding with that kind of upgrades… sooooo, no matter what you say, he won’t find those reasonings as valid ones.

Each one can be stuck in the past and that’s good if works for you, but also get respect the ppl In favor of present and future.

Past gets its charm (valves sound is nice and warm, specially if you are used to that since ever), hence why we are on classic cars yet, but is not necessarily the best for each one.
 
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Friday I became the caretaker of a friend's '70 RR for the summer. He recently added an aftermarket radio and says when he turns it on it 'pops' with a loud sound that is very painful to the ears but then the radio plays as normal. He has no idea what's going on. I want to be a good steward and try to fix the problem while I have custody of his ride. I have not tried the radio to experience the sound yet. Before I do that and bust out the multimeter to start checking connections, checking grounds, checking if it is 'hot' with the ignition off, sorting out the radio to speaker circuit, etc., I thought I'd maybe save some time and ask here first if anyone else has had a similar problem. What do we think? As always, any help is greatly appreciated.
Sounds like an amplifier. If separate amp make sure it is switched . Steady power one lead and ignition on other
 
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